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Craig0ry

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Posts posted by Craig0ry

  1. Tanfo Grips won’t fit as the screw placement is in an entirely different spot, and the back strap of the gun is significantly different as well. 

     

    And as Clang Clang said the doodad was for their issue holster, would love to see what it looks like, mine is still on as I wanted to keep the gun original. I found it makes for a perfect trigger guard fit for the polymer lower Jericho holsters, just without the rail the gun can cant back and forth in it, but adding some extra material to the bottom of that holster where the rail would be on newer guns it would be a perfect fit,(ordered the wrong holster before I got the gun)

    I plan to order a proper fitting holster for the black one when it arrives and will be removing the doodad from that pistol

  2. 18 hours ago, Elcidaviator said:

    I’m picking one of these up today.  I’d like to keep it SAO, but I’d like to change the trigger to make it a Master Model B look-a-like.  
     

    Craig, you seem to be the Jericho SME on the model 941F.  Will all Tanfo triggers work in the Jericho?  Do the parts have to be for a small frame?  
     

    Thanks in advance for the help.  I’m a newb in the Tanfo world.  

     

    1800714A-CA2A-434F-BBE9-5DE1CD547B8C.jpeg

    All parts I used were from a small frame Tanfo, that’s pretty much all we have in canada, but your trigger parts will be the same regardless, any Tanfo trigger should work.

     

    I ended up buying another police trade in, black this time, still waiting for it to arrive, but it will most likely get a henning trigger and the full work around with a DP front sight,  see how much of a competition gun I can make a Jericho, 

     

    if you have any more specific questions let me know, this Tanfoglio section is pretty quiet these days.

  3. Well I got one today! Basically a Tanfo so I thought I would post it here. Stripped it right down for a cleaning. it was pretty grungy. Soon discovered which parts were interchangeable with Tanfoglio and which weren't. 

    Parts that are not interchangeable are:
    Safety
    Main spring strut.

    The rest seems to be the same.

    The trigger that comes on these trade-ins is specially designed for the SAO pistol, It has extra material on the front so it will not allow the trigger to move forward like a DA trigger will on reset. So if you want a DA/SA I will have to send you a trigger as well with the hammer disconnector.

    I swapped the sear to a polished one I had, Changed out the trigger bar plunger spring to a lighter one as well as polished it and the plunger head. And swapped out the hammer to a Tanfoglio one I had polished. But I will be switching it back to the regular Jericho one as I want to keep this pistol looking original.

    Trigger pull is just over 2 lbs now and its very nice! Might creep up a little when I put the original hammer back in if I don't do some polishing.

    Made some interesting combos with a Tanfo and Armalite I have. You'll see in the photos.

    Over all Iam very happy with this gun for the price!

    Fx1gb8H.jpg
    ynCT1ql.jpg

    Difference between a Tanfo hammer and Jericho, This is not the hammer I put in the gun, Just a spare for a reference photo. The Jericho main spring strut is more like a CZ75.
    OUmQ1sQ.jpg
    hlUILkv.jpg
    R8Y3JUd.jpg
    qjX3llG.jpg
    hZn1M8t.jpg
    ovX7Fmp.jpg
    6b9iNZE.jpg

    And the mix up combos

    qbsgJ4C.jpg
    fQdqCog.jpg
    EdmP3cV.jpg

  4. 25 minutes ago, Fo0 said:

     

    I fit a new BOLO to the Tanfoglio (the other BOLO was one that was originally fitted to a CZ and I just stuck it in the Tanfo). I have zero pretravel now. You can get less (no) pretravel with a BOLO than using Henning trigger pretravel screw.

     

    Thanks for that update, I bought the PD BOLO but it’s going to require some fitting, after you put the bolo in yours did you have to adjust the screws on your henning trigger? I have mine set with red loctite again.

  5. 58 minutes ago, Acer2428 said:

    I polished the snot out of my FPB, but I cannot tell/see any wear on it. I have yet to try the 14 lb. spring, but hoping that does the trick. Didn't know if one of the heavier/extended FP options was a common solution.

     

    If the 14lb spring doesn't work I'll pull the FPB and check function. Thanks for the suggestion. 

    Try the pencil test, put a pencil down the barrel with the eraser sitting against the breech face, pull the trigger and see how high it flies with and without the FPB

  6. I use a variable temp bearing grease on the plunger/trigger bar connection, very light amount, as well on the rails during the summer time, but not the winter, slows down my slide too much in the cold, a little bit of Lucas oil on the barrel and locking lugs and a small amount on the sear housing. Never had any issue yet other than the cold, which I use oil instead of the grease, 

  7. You may still have inconsistencies with CCI primers and a 14# spring, 

     

    I bought the PD hammer spring kit, 10# up to 15.5#, with the 10 pound spring it made for a very nice trigger, but could not even set off federal primers consistently with a titan hammer and FPB removed, ended up putting the stock one in again for now(16#) just so I could light off everything, didn’t seem to change the trigger pull weight all that much with all the other things I’ve done to the gun. In fact after I put in the PD sear spring and extreme sear Iam now down to my lowest trigger pull yet at 2.5# with the stock hammer spring. 

  8. Got the PD Bolo extreme sear and enhanced sear spring and conefit guide rod yesterday, The BOLO will need some fitting, won’t engage the sear so the trigger is dead and the hammer won’t fall, took it out and Iam at 2.5# now but still want to go a tad lighter. Fitting this BOLO seems like it will be a bit of a pain. Anyone have any experience doing this?

  9. Your videos are the ones I followed when polishing the parts, other than the sear housing as mentioned, which I will do here shortly,

     

    My plunger head/bar are extremely shiny and smooth along with my trigger bar and contact points, I could maybe try and smooth out the plunger hole some more, 

     

    With the stock plunger spring the Henninng trigger would absolutely not reset even with the heaviest return spring on the trigger, too much upward force into the trigger bar, didn’t seem to matter how smooth it was.

     

    As mentioned I have the Titan hammer and have my FPB removed, I do the the extreme FPB and extreme FP but did take out the block,

     

    Does a BOLO help shorten up the trigger reset then? Right now I have a some pre travel before it hits the wall before it brakes, if I try and shorten it I anymore with the pre travel screw it wont reset once the slide it on,

     

    The Bolo I have available to me here is a Patriot Defence one and I’ve heard they can be a real bear to fit and install?

  10. 6 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    To reduce pretravel install a BOLO disconnector. Along with the Xtreme extended firing pin block and the Titan hammer, that will cause the trigger to have nearly zero travel ahead of the reset point.

     

    There’s a 4-part Tanfoglio Tuning video series on YouTube I posted which shows precisely what to polish.

     

    I do not find a reduced power plunger spring of any kind to be helpful or needed. Their frequent causing of odd malfunctions led me to keep that stock and polish the hell out of it’s hole and rod instead. Same reduction in trigger pull with zero reliability concerns.

  11. 3 hours ago, Fo0 said:

    hammer, sear, henning trigger, 10lb main spring should be alot lower than 3.5 lbs?

     

    why didn't you use the henning plunger spring that came with the trigger?

    Bought the trigger second hand, it only came with one trigger return spring, hence why I had to clip some coils off the stock plunger spring, once the new kit gets here ill try each of them.

    I’ll polish up the sear cage and the holes and the pin here tonight and see how that goes.

  12. 42 minutes ago, billthemarine2862 said:

    That pistol looks great! 

    I run a Tanfo for limited division in USPSA. My setup is very different from yours but, my trigger breaks at 1.75 pounds.  I have a factory plunger spring. Polished the living crap out of the the entire plunger assembly and trigger bar.  Xtreme medium hammer spring, Unica Hammer, polished sear and sear cage, Patriot Defense trigger return spring, PD sear spring, PD firing pin spring, Patriot defense firing pin, extended firing pin block.  I am not at all familiar with the Henning trigger system but, based on the parts you have listed I think a good change would be the sear spring.  The factory sear spring adds a lot of weight to the trigger pull compared to the Patriot Defense sear spring.

     

    Edit...

    I just noticed that you said you ordered a PD sear spring.  In addition that, polishing everything should get you where you want to be as far as pull weight. 

    Thanks Bill! I did polish the crap out of everything, I think the only thing I didn’t do was the sear cage!

    hopefullt this PD sear spring will put me a tad lower!

  13. Hey guys, been on this forum for a little while now, great place for Tanfoglio advice,  it seems info is very limited outside of this site, 

     

    When I bought this pistol I knew nothing about Tanfoglio other than I liked the looks of it, did not know it was a tinkerer’s special, which is totally fine with me, I love to tinker! Just didn’t think it would need as much work as it did given the price!

     

    I thought I would share what I’ve done to my stock 3 since I got it last year. And a few photos in good lighting :)

     

    Feel free to share and tips or advice!

     

    Tanfoglio Stock III Special Edition Nickel Small frame. 

     

    Added And modifications include:

     

    -Henning Fibre Optic Front sight

    -Henning medium flat Trigger

    -Henning trigger return spring kit, 17# installed

    -Wolff 7# recoil spring

    -Extreme Titan Hammer

    -Patriot Defense Hammer spring kit, 10# installed

     

    Things I’ve done

     

    -Cerakoted barrel armour Black

    -Trimmed trigger bar plunger spring 2 coils

    -Replaced 2 piece sear with 1 piece

    -Polished plunger, trigger bar, sear, firing pin retaining plate, hammer strike face, slide rails and feed ramp also maybe more I can’t think of.

    -Removed FPB

     

    Coming I have a Conefit Guide Rod, PD enhanced sear spring and Henning trigger bar spring kit.

     

    My load is 147gr berry bullet in front of 3.0gr of vihtavuori n310, OAL 1.101, (chamber is tight) high presssure very light shooting load, and of course Federal Primers

     

    This is a 3 gun pistol, I don’t shoot IPSC or IDPA so not limited to very many rules.

     

    love the gun so far, Very accurate, my trigger pull is SAO of course and comes in around 3.0 - 3.5#, I wouldn’t mind it being around 2.5#, not sure what else I can do to get it there.

    I have the henning trigger set up almost perfect, but I do find the reset a tad long, but if I extend the pre travel screw any further the pistol will not reset, open to any suggestions to help me reduce the reset length! Post travel is about as perfect as it gets.

    03686385-ED21-4817-9398-BA3EAB7E396B.jpg

    4976A8B6-37AA-45AF-8DD6-1D7EF4EB924B.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

  14. 36 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

     

    You leaving a full turn of extra space past zero overtravel, correct? Too little overtravel is the #1 problem people run into with self-tuned tanfos.

     

    You will not notice an extra turn’s worth of overtravel when shooting. Promise. I tried overtravel removal in my G34, M&P, and Tanfo. Keep a full turn. Red loctite it there, don’t trust blue.

     

    (And hopefully someone will be along shortly with your setscrew size.)

    It doesn’t come anywhere close to the stopping after the trigger breaks, I would guess I still have 3mm or more or travel before the trigger stops, but when/if I do find a longer screw I’ll be sure to leave an extra turn in it. 

  15. Anyone know the size of the set screw for the over travel? I would like to put a longer one in, The screw isn’t long enough for me to set the trigger where I want it, so I have it loctite’d as far down as I feel comfortable with knowing it won’t work itself loose and come out.

  16. On 1/25/2019 at 9:16 AM, BigAm said:

    I ran an 8lb on my S2X and ended up moving up to a 9lb. I was having some FTRB every now and then with the 8lb, and I cant see the gun running any better with anything lighter than that. Im just trying to figure out how yall get them to run reliably with such light springs!

     

    Ran 50 rounds through it last Tuesday at a practical night, not one hiccup with the 7lb spring, ran and felt awesome. I have polished my rails, not to a mirror but wayyyy better than factory.

  17. Honestly nothing surprises me with Tanfoglio, my trigger was very gritty until I took all the parts out and polished them to a mirror, 

     

    I had to send my stock III back twice because the special edition nickel finish was terrible, the first gun I could scratch off with a fingernail, second gun looked the texture of leather and was really bumpy, and the third gun looked good and has been holding up great, they do take a lot elbow grease to get them where you want it seems.

  18. I see Iam late to this topic and you didn't get many replies, I would tread with caution if you haven't done this yet, if you remove too much of the lip inside the shell tube the follower can cockeye sideways and sometimes come right out of the tube, watched my buddy screw up his $2400 shotgun this way, you can see you've already started to hit the mag tube in your bottom photo, some guys do remove a slight amount of the tube lip and have it run reliable, but too much like you see in the M2 photos of Taran's and you'll be looking at a VM paper weight. 

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