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MiWiAu

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Posts posted by MiWiAu

  1. When I got my Range Officers card back in the early 80's (still have it), we were told by our instructor (don't remember name),
    that Stages should not be an Athletic Event, Mission Impossible or so Physically Demanding that a shooter could get hurt.
    Remember back in those days with had Cooper Tunnels.  I am now 70 and both the stages shown would be very difficult for
    me to shoot.  So my question is "why make a low wall like those"?   The stages could have been set up with couple of Ports
    just a little higher than the bottom of the walls and add a block so that both Ports had to be used.  The stages would have
    been just as good and more fun to shoot and would have eliminated the fault line questions.   Just speaking from a Super
    Senior view.......


    I’m in my upper 30’s and in almost the worst shape of my life. I just started shooting USPSA last year and tomorrow’s match will be my 7th match ever.

    The club I started shooting at last year had fairly basic setups and no backwards movements in the matches I shot.

    I started attending matches at a different club this spring, and the setups have been a lot more interesting.

    Tomorrow (if the thunderstorms hold out) will be the first time, though, that I get to shoot from a low position in a match. Personally, I’m excited for the challenge, and glad it’s showing up, even if it’s only once in a great while. I don’t have the budget yet to shoot a lot of major matches, so my exposure to the more challenging match scenarios is pretty limited at this point.


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  2.  
     I don't see any dates on the stage.
    Possibly an older (pre-January) stage?


    Could be. It’s only my second time shooting with this org. Not sure exactly from where they pull their stage designs, but probably just reuse of an older stage design without update verbiage in the briefing.


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  3. Thanks for the replies. I assumed there would be a fault line at the match, but didn’t see one on the diagram. I’m relatively new to the sport and this will actually be my first time shooting a stage with a low position, so I figured I’d ask ahead of time.

    Much appreciated!


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  4. The stage briefing says the “front wall is open from lower edge to ground.” Would the imaginary line where the wall intersects the ground be considered the fault line? i.e. Assuming no actual fault line is placed on the ground, would the shooter’s legs/feet/knees need to be completely behind the wall to avoid a procedural(s)? I looked in the rule book but couldn’t find a clear answer.

     

    b3f8c0dead0573eb27de560a688d10a1.jpg

     

     

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  5.  
    Punishing yourself by having misses or other failures should only apply to when you are practicing in a "Match Mode" where you are trying to replicate a solid performance that would be deployed in a match.


    Thanks for clarifying, Charlie! This makes a lot of sense. Also, good point about tangible punishment for failures other than misses. Much appreciated!

    P.S. Your book showed up yesterday. Great read! Almost done with my first pass through. This will be a great reference and training tool moving forward. :)


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  6. Great listen! I’m new to the sport and absorbing all the info I can. I just ordered your book last week, and I’m eagerly awaiting its arrival. :)

     

    Quick question on your philosophy with mikes in training... You say in the podcast that there needs to be a tangible consequence for missing. Is this a hard and fast rule you apply regardless of your training goals?

     

    Steve Anderson suggests that calling a miss is acceptable when working in “speed mode” when your primary goal is to go faster.

     

    It seems like never allowing yourself a miss might prevent one from pushing their limits for fear of missing? How does one know their limit if they don’t cross the line?

     

    Hoping you would elaborate a bit on your philosophy. Thanks!

  7. I had most of the material laying around to try a “Velcro” setup, so decided to give it a whirl. All I had to purchase was some felt and the “hook only” adhesive backed Velcro (ordered off Fleabay) to put on the back side of the cardboard targets.

    For anyone who cares, I’ll update on how it works once my targets and Velcro arrives!

    Side note: Eventually, I plan to scrape off all that old liquid nails and paint the walls, so it looks a little more presentable, but this should work in the meantime. :P

    189d8e4b01715a56dc1c244e72004415.jpg


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  8. After some additional digging, it looks like one can buy the “loop” side of velcro material in bulk (60” widths).

    I’m thinking if I do a 2’ section the whole width of my space, I can put some “hook” strips on the back side of targets and move them around to change things up. My initial thought is using spray adhesive to mount the loop material to some 1/4” plywood, then use some small anchors to mount it to the wall.

    Thoughts?

    fa02cec33a6466a08383580178b83629.jpg


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  9. Hey all,
     
    My new dryfire dojo went into service last night. It’s a pretty basic set-up in my unfinished basement, and the space is currently about 12’x28’. Concrete floor and cinder block walls.
     
    Does anyone have any tips for temporarily attaching targets to cinder block walls that facilitates easy array changes? To maximize floor space, I’m trying to avoid traditional target stands.
     
    I’m currently using some paper IPSC targets Gorilla taped to the wall (cardboard targets are on order), but this method will destroy targets after being repositioned only a few times.
     
    Curious if anyone out there has a creative or innovative suggestion that is economical and not completely permanent. Maybe I need a giant Velcro wall. default_smile.png
     
     
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  10.  
    I’m a heavy equipment mechanic. Bulldozers and such. Hard work that’s tough on hands.
     
    My other hobby besides shooting is climbing. That means you dust yourself with chalk and then hang from fingertips using holds coarser than your gun’s grips, slip, slide, and skin everything on your way up.
     
    So I personally feel VERY qualified to speak on this one...
     
    ...Working Hands is the best stuff ever. Use it. Nothing heals without being greasy girly stuff like that product does.
     
    and second on the athletic tape til you toughen up. Routinely expose yourself to the rough grip so your skin builds toughness, but use tape before it begins to get tender.
     
    (Also, nothing develops grip strength like rock climbing. I was lifting weights 8-10 hours a week, and getting into bouldering made me feel like a weak little girl. Climb two routes and 12 minutes after you get there, your forearms are so cooked you can’t make simple holds on a really basic climb.)
     
     


    Thanks for the tips. In addition to the Jack Black’s Industrial Hans Healer, I also picked up some Joshua Tree and Working Hands to try.

    I like the Working Hands during the day, because it’s not greasy feeling. The Joshua Tree salve is nice at night before bed since it’s a little greasier and takes a while to absorb.

    The athletic tape has helped, and my grips are starting to wear in with some dead skin, so all is going well.

    Thanks to all who have made suggestions. :)


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  11.  
    Bro I'm just telling you that O'Keefe makes my hands look good for maybe 30 - 40 min then they're dried out and chapped again.  I say this from using it for over a month till I got tired making no headway in fixing my skin and got some Udder Balm at the suggestion of some farmers I know.  I don't really care what kind of alcohol is in it, how much is in it, or even if it has alcohol at all.  It sucks and I don't really care what some website has to say about it.
     
    Use what you want tho, makes no difference to me.


    Sorry man, wasn’t trying to start an argument. I was just trying to be analytical about the ingredients.


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  12. That OKeeffe stuff is alcohol based.  That's why it seems to dry so quickly and not feel oily.  Throw it in the trash.  

    If you need to repair hand damage, go to Tractor Supply or Rural King and get a tube of Udder Balm.  My hands look like complete hamburger after a winter of working and playing outside and that's what I use.

     

     

    Hmm, I’ll have to go to a store and see what they have. The “Udder Balm” I see on Amazon also appears to contain alcohols. The “Bag Balm” does not, but it also appears to be mostly vaseline with a couple extras. Thank you.

     

    ETA: There are some interesting articles on alcohol in skin care products. Bottom line is that not all of them are bad (fatty alcohols are actually good for the skin).

     

    https://www.paulaschoice-eu.com/alcohol-in-skincare-the-facts

     

     

    I also found this product analyzer (just copy/paste the ingredients). The O’Keefes doesn’t seem all that bad. [emoji2369]

     

    https://www.skincarisma.com/ingredient-analyzer

     

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  13. I use pro grip and after a dryfire session i use a product called "working hands". That stuff is pretty impressive.


    Is the stuff you use the O’Keeffe’s Working Hands in the green container? If so, it’s certainly the most reasonably priced of the stuff I’ve seen so far. I started using Pro Grip recently as well... amazing how much a little of that stuff helps! With that and the grip tape, it’s like the pistol is velcro’d to my hands! :)

    Thanks!



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  14. I’d grab some kind of moisturizer-type thing that’s designed for people who use their hands for lots of heavy work, etc. 
     
     I use one called Joshua Tree that’s designed for rock climbers. Supposedly it helps your hands heal without preventing them from toughening up. So not really a moisturizer if that makes sense.
     
    In the short term I would use athletic tape to protect your hands when they get too raw so you can still practice. 


    I will check out Joshua Tree. Thanks for the recommendation. I got some “Jack Black Industrial Hand Healer” that I like, but I’ll look into rock climber stuff. Good tip!


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  15. I added some grip tape to my Glock a couple weeks ago to get a more positive purchase with my support hand. The OE grips were too slippery, and the grip tape I installed (from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop) is somewhere between 40 and 60 grit. It's pretty aggressive, which works well, but it's beginning to tear the $#!+ out of the meaty part of my support palm at the base of the thumb.

     

    I've been doing daily dryfire for the last couple weeks, and the skin on my support hand is pink and tender. It hasn't rubbed all the way through yet, but I don't think I'm too far off from that point.


    I'd prefer to not make the grip less aggressive, and I would like to continue my dryfire routine. I'm wondering what the best way is to facilitate speedy development of a callus. Should I keep the tender area moisturized? Let it dry out? Give it a break and cover it with athletic tape, or keep pushing until it rubs through? Tips/tricks welcomed. :)

     

    Thanks!

  16. 30 minutes ago, pskys2 said:

    If you go with a lightened striker you can go lighter on the spring and keep reliability.

     

    FWIW, I picked up one of these in anticipation of receiving my G34.5 won at my local GSSF match.

     

    https://shieldarms.com/glock-gen-5-small-frame-tin-skeletonized-striker

     

    I’ve not tried it yet, but it’s the lowest cost extended tip striker I found and it carries a lifetime warranty against breakage. Seems to be of decent build quality. I’ll be trying it in a range-only gun.

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