Kevrend
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Posts posted by Kevrend
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It's been said before, but I'll say it again. I like the Guga Ribas holster. All the modularity needed to function with lots of different guns, especially the Caspian frames with the ultra thin trigger guards.
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As previously mentioned, the Tactical Games accuracy requirements are pretty broad and your average off-the-shelf AR will shoot the accuracy requirement. The physical element of accuracy when involved in that type of activity is more likely going to be the determining factor in effectiveness in the competitions. That said, if your current rifle is not grouping well now in purely target shooting environment, then I'd start with trying a few different types of ammunition to see if there's just something your gun happens to like prior to a barrel swap. Example: if your current barrel is a 1:9 twist, shoot 55gr. If it's 1:7 twist, try 72 or 77g. If it's 1:8 try 62-69gr.
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If you are happy with the way your gun already functions, but hate the quadrail, this may be a good option:
https://midwestindustriesinc.com/two-piece-ar15-free-float-m-lok-handguard/
or something similar. 2 piece rails that will work around your existing gas block without needing to remove it, and don't have the pic rail all over the place.
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For a basic compliant brake that is tame to the shooter and colleagues, I don't think you can go wrong with the BCM Comp Mod series. They are essentially an A2 Birdcage with a cone baffle inside which makes them compliant and they're really enjoyable.
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Huge fan of the Timney Calvin Elite. Super light, no ignition or reset issues, very fast. Zero creep, ultra crisp break and you can adjust the length of pull and angle to your needs, plus comes with a variety of shoes, (flat, curved, knurled cylinder, etc).
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For the price that you’re talking. I think my money would be on a Criterion barrel. My initial suggestion would be a JP but it exceeds your budget.
For gas blocks, there’s arguments on both sides for adjustable vs non-adjustable. Most aftermarket gas blocks are set screws and manufacturer specs recommend barrel dimpling to help them hold true. Def need loctite as well. Some companies like D Wilson MFG offer to pin them for you. A pinned block will be bulletproof as far as long term alignment.
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On 4/9/2023 at 6:18 PM, mmchambers06 said:
I ran a Razor HD Gen 2 E 1-6x for a bit. The glass and eyebox on those is phenomenal but it's let down by the stiffest magnification ring I've ever seen and also being very heavy and bulky for something sitting on top of an AR.
I believe I read that the razor zoom ring is stiff because it’s over-greased inside. If you pull the ring and remove some of the grease (not all) it significantly lightens the throw. I haven’t done that because with my switch throw I don’t feel it’s too heavy. But that’s an option.
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Impact Machine released their RMR/SRO plates for prodigy. $70 and they’re good to go.
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Pretty sure they are or were Blem versions but I snagged one also and I’m content with it. Still waiting on a 507 Comp to show up, but the fit and finish of the plate is up to par with all expectations and looks like it flares out from the slide to the optic dimensions cleanly. Replaces u notch rear sight with a square notch rear of same height. Also comes with two sets of different length screws for trijicon or for holosun mounting. For $70 it’s a win.
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I have an early release 5” prodigy. At purchase, it had a phenomenal trigger but had the chronic feeding issues everyone seemed to be experiencing. I also noticed that my slide was hanging up on the disconnector. Original advice was magazine related so I sent my magazines in and they were replaced. Got the new ones and had same issue so sent gun back for warranty service. 2 weeks later it was returned and ran very reliably. However, my trigger felt nothing like what it previously had, and the disconnector issue was still present. The slide also always felt lethargic with the factory recoil spring. Several people commented on feeling the slide creep forward during recoil and it felt like it was killing splits.
I purchased an EGW lightened hammer ignition kit with a titanium hammer strut, 11lb recoil spring, red dirt ST prodigy trigger and installed them myself, as my first foray into 2011 modification. There was a little bit of a learning curve on a few things but nothing I couldn’t figure out. I purchased a wheeler trigger scale prior to installing, the post-warranty trigger was breaking at around 6.75-7lbs. Unacceptable in a 2011 trigger. Post-installation of all of the above items, trigger is breaking at 2-2.25lbs and has significantly less pre and post travel. Total cost of the components was $215 and the gun feels arguably the same if not better than my best friends XC. It also feels better than the Dan Wesson Elite Havok I just sold. At a purchase price if $1165, I’m sitting at $1380 on a gun that I think offers the same return as the staccato offerings with plenty of room for magazines, ammo and holsters without touching the price of a factory staccato.
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Maybe I’m not shooting enough rounds, but I have done minimal cleaning of my comp and it still looks good.
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My open gun is cerakoted from the factory and it has worn away in every spot that it contacts my Guga Ribas holster. In some ways, it looks cool. But if you want a gun that looks like a safe queen, go DLC.
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10 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:
I'm staying stock for ignition kit. I set my trigger at about 3 lbs I'm sure it could be lower with stock parts but that's all I wanted. Tool-less guide rod I went with a Atlas. My gun is a 4.25. I did go to a 10 lbs recoil spring and a 19 lbs hammer spring.
I expect even how I shoot this should last at least a couple years. and even then I bet if something in the ignition parts failed I could probably send it back to Springfield and get it fixed for free. Then run it a few more years.
Everyone worries about mim, I had one mim hammer fail in the past. It was around 25-30k rounds and it was only the spur that broke off, the gun still functioned fine. I did then change out all the ignition parts on that gun.
My department was issued Sig P229R Enhanced Elites several years ago which had MIM parts and allegedly they were the reason we had an unbelievable amount of failures…so much so that we ended up terminating our contract and suing Sig for it, and jumping ship to Glock. I’m torn. Without real evidence that it was those parts, I’m not confident, but someone clearly was.
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I think a key for me has always been monitoring forums and marketplaces for items that I think are good values, then buying them and selling them for profit. You need to know what’s a good deal and what’s not, but you may be able to shoot a similar single action gun for a little bit and flip it towards a 2011.
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Is there a preferred ignition kit everyone is using? Staying stock? Also, are we all switching to tool-less guide rods?
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Hey gents, just following up, this gun has been phenomenal. I’m not convinced that my load is ideal for it, but it hasn’t hiccuped once with major ammo and it runs most minor ammo just fine (although it doesn’t like to eject the last round of a mag on minor ammo). It groups very impressively and I enjoy pinging reduced c zone steel from 100 yds regularly. I take it the guy who did the smithing on this for the previous owner knew his stuff and got the mags running flawlessly. Excited to keep running it!
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On 7/1/2021 at 10:38 PM, tomjerry1 said:
Where are you shooting, looks like you are dropping mags at 8-10 rounds?
New Jersey, unfortunately.
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23 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
Well, how's the new pistol treating you?
So far, great. She's running like a dream and all 6 magazines have been very reliable so far. Snagged a Guga Ribas holster for it and shot my first match with it at the beginning of the month. Didn't have much live fire practice with it, but got some dry fire in every afternoon. Still need to get used to disengaging a safety on the draw coming from the Glock world.Here's a link to an album of photos because I can't get the hang of the photo uploader on the forum. --> https://imgur.com/gallery/Zw6fa45
And here's a link of some clips from that match. Hopefully this month's match will bring some increased confidence in the manipulations of the gun. --> https://imgur.com/gallery/1AP0EyJ
As far as loads, I'm shooting a 9Major load of 6.8gr VV N340 124gr RN at 1.165" OAL. I've also ran several different 9 Minor loads through it just to see how it handled it and it's been 100% reliable for firing, extracting and feeding. Can't express how impressed I am with the gun thus far. I'm going to run it with the CMore for the year and most likely switch to an SRO next year to lighten the gun a bit and to avoid having to worry about batteries all the time.
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Alright, great info, switching to JHPs for future loads
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On 6/14/2021 at 1:52 PM, iflyskyhigh said:
This.
For some reason when I used plated bullets years ago I could never get a traditional chrono to consistently read correctly.
I would imagine if you were actually getting that big of a swing you’d see other signs. Noise, feel, POI shift.
When I chrono plated bullets with my labradar they read fine.
There's zero felt shift in recoil, sound, flash. Is there a better recommendation for bullets for the comp'ed guns? I knew to steer clear of coated bullets and bullets with exposed lead at the rear, so I assumed copper plated was the way to go. And perhaps I should just dive in and purchase a Labradar.
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On 6/14/2021 at 9:08 AM, Furrly said:
Have you tried chronying other rounds you made with the same press.. Process of elimination.??
I chrono'ed two minor power factor loads from the same press, using the same powder and brass. One of which was also the copper plated bullets, one was coated bullets. The coated bullets got single digit SD readings, which leads me to believe that maybe the chronograph wasn't picking up the copper plated bullets accurately.
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Starting to develop my first 9major load. Currently using 124gr Extreme Copper Plated RN bullets, CCI500, mixed brass, VV N340 6.8gr, OAL 1.160. Runs reliably and good return to zero, but when I chronographed it the other night, i was getting huge jumps from 1375fps (which was my goal velocity) down to 1050ish with nothing in between. My gut reaction was that the chrono wasn’t reading accurately, but is it common to have such a huge deviation? I could understand something like 50fps but 300fps? Gun is a Dan Wesson Havok open pistol.
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DJI Osmo Pocket 2. It’ll allow you to drag a box on your phone around a subject and it will track that subject very accurately. Super tiny, great quality, and it’s an actual gimbal.
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1 hour ago, tomjerry1 said:
I don't know what disconnector is in your pistol, but I had an issue with mine. I use the "EGW HD BALL HEAD LONG DISCONNECTOR", seems as tho other disconnectors can extend into the mag area of the grip, and can cause an accidental discharge during reload. I have had it happen to me, and someone suggested this disconnector, and haven't had an AD while reloading since. You may have to reduce the ball head diameter slightly to function. The mag well looks like an EGW product also, what I use, it is pressure fit and may loosen after a lot of use. I use a piece of masking tape on the pistol mag well, trim it to match and the tap the mag well into place with a plastic mallet, never had it move.
Cool, thank you. I’ll definitely keep an eye on how the disconnector is functioning during reloads in training.
Nitro Fin 2.0 vs Atlas Thumb Rest Slide Stop
in 1911-style Pistols
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Interested in putting one of these in my Prodigy. The Nitro Fin 2.0 is in stock in black but I prefer the aesthetic of the Atlas. Anyone ran both and have a preference? Function over form, but if I can get both in one package, that’s great.