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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

MetricPound

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Everything posted by MetricPound

  1. Don't mix powders, and if you didn't, then winchester or someone else would like to know about this problem. What lot#? My 115gn HAPs have corn cob stuck in the cavities. It's like buying those bang-snaps that are packed in sawdust.
  2. Six years later. . . Did they replace the slide? I would have thought the internal mechanism that lifts the barrel into battery was at fault, like a flat spot where there should be a ramp. And why is that breech face so soft? I googled dent breech face because my test dummy SWCs 3-point jam and the BRASS is denting the breech face! M&P@200 rnds.
  3. I haven't tried it yet but TITEWAD has data, meters great, and the burn rate is right there with all those light load shotgun powders everyone has recommended. . .
  4. The 45 is black and the threaded barrel is 5"
  5. Wow, those M&Ps look like they just need a barrel and some internals to become legit. . .
  6. If anything it should help you to not anticipate recoil (flinch). I only have a spring gun you have to cock each time, but the trigger break is similar although lighter and spongier. Since the spring releases like a striker, it jerks the same way. Trigger control and grip can cause the same problems on target, so I think it's great. The accuracy and range will keep your targets closer though, but this is good for indoor shooting. (They can still dent wood and walls be advised) With good "BBs" and a soft trap, you can reuse them. It's easy to burn through 60-100 shots when you leave it out.
  7. I got the impression that cat crap is just soap in the consistency you need it in a convenient container for $8 The principle is to break the surface tension of the tiny water droplets. . . so your looking through a thin flat layer of water instead of blinded by thousands of convex lenses.
  8. I believe the difference with the flat point is that the bearing surface is greater. Essentially, they cut the nose (and some shoulder) off and add it at the base. Also they tend to have a sharp shoulder angle and may have to be seated deeper than a round nose in order to chamber away from the lands/throat. So you'll have more friction in the bore and reduced case volume and greater bullet surface area retained in the brass, requiring a reduction in charge from round nose data. The only time I got concerned about pressure signs was loading 124gn FP. I only got a couple tenths from starting load and pulled the rest. Brass was swelling with shiny stretch marks and flying ten feet behind me. 3" bbl also.
  9. Bar soap! especially the translucent glycerin ones. I keep a small container (much like cat crap comes in) with tiny pieces of end-of-life soap. Get your finger wet, rub on soap, rub finger on glasses, let dry, buff out. It takes some practice to get the right amount. As it works, the fog (water) actually rinses the soap away, so you'll have to reapply in extreme humidity. I've found polyester shirts will not buff it right. I use cotton.
  10. Does no one use Hornady HAPs? They have a 125gn .356" JHP and can be found for 10-11cents. I came to this thread interested in coated bullets, but there is no discussion of them. I just got some blue bullets to try and have since heard of ibejihead and acme, all seem low priced.
  11. I'm a left eye cross-dominant as well. When I took up shotgun, everything I read suggested go lefty, so I did. With pistol I've never considered it. I always practice some holding left, but I've never tried to compare accuracy or trigger control? Your right brain deals with creativity, imagination, intuition, 3-D forms and your left hand. . . so maybe the signal is better? I don't know the rules but it seems like it would be easier to hold left when moving left or shooting around an obstacle on your right and holding right moving right. . . also for reloading. Seems awkward to hold right, run left while pointing down range and reloading.
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