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About Eargesplitten

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    Looks for Range

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    Kaleb Yoder

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  1. Very cool. I wonder if someone with a spare Glock connector can test whether it works. They seem to be available for $260 online, so if you can fit all the Glock springs and bits it could be a pretty fantastic deal. I especially like the VP9 grip adjustments. How much polishing did you need to do, and where? There isn’t any way to make it work with Glock magazines is there? Given how much of a difference there is in the grip I’m assuming no.
  2. I have been interested in Grand Power pistols for some time since I’ve always loved weird guns. However, I finally got my hands on a stick P1 (previously only handled the X-Trim) and was kind of disappointed with the trigger. SA is fantastically crisp, but DA has a lot of uneven stacking (I think that’s the term, the weight goes up and down a few times) and doesn’t seem any lighter than my Pre-B 85 with partial polishing on the trigger bar. The SA is heavier than expected too, the X-Trim was noticeably lighter. Maybe that’s just the lack of a FPB on the X-Trim. On the other hand this is a brand-new gun while my 85 is well-worn. Will the trigger smooth out over 500-1000 rounds or so? It doesn’t seem like there’s much of an aftermarket, are there aftermarket springs somewhere like for CZs? Are there parts to polish inside? My understanding is fit and finish is much better on GPs than CZs so I wouldn’t expect the same gains that I got polishing my CZ. I’m mainly interested in the P1 and P11 because I already have the 85 for a full-sized pistol and I’d like to have the option of carrying it if I ever decide to get my CHP. I understand that’s not the primary purpose of this forum, but I don’t have a ton of money so I like what I buy to be able to do double duty between the fun and unpleasant aspects of gun ownership. A P1 or P11 also gives me more divisions I can shoot in between the various sports. Although even the K100 is a good inch shorter than my CZ. I’m also possibly interested in a Q100 or Q1S but I understand their striker triggers are love it or hate it and I haven’t had a chance to get my hands on one to see which it is for me.
  3. I had lost my CZ-85 TRS and ended up finding it, but not before ordering a new one from Numrich. It showed up yesterday and I realized it looks significantly different from the one that was in the gun, as well as the ones sold by CGW and CZC. It's much more open, I'm not sure what that would do to the trigger return, it seems like it would have a similar effect to the RP-TRS that CGW sells but I never did all that well in physics class so I could be wrong. Numrich: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1753050I CZ sold by CZC: https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/cz-springs-all/cz-75-trigger-return-spring-trs-new.html The one already in the gun looked like the latter, the one I got from Numrich is accurate to the photo on their site. Should it still work? Would it be significantly different? I've had to take the thing apart and put it together several times in the past couple days and I'm not inclined to do it again just to test it out, even though it seems like the new one would be a lot easier to get in. I already broke one safety detent (chipped off the part you pull at with a probe) so I'm running on one out of two.
  4. Thanks. I'll play around with it some more. It's possible that it was just the way that I was pulling while using more trigger finger that was causing the pain. I'll try focusing extra hard on pulling straight back and see if maybe I was pulling off-center, which is easy to do like that. Edit: Not disturbing the sight picture is much easier with a lot of trigger finger, like he said. Makes sense, vice is stronger than fulcrum, and less wiggle potential in the finger. And that's a stock DA CZ trigger, not exactly light. SA and it's easy. And yeah, after doing it I could release the magazine with my trigger finger.
  5. Double posting for conclusion: turns out I was using too much trigger finger. The angle of rotation when it was on the first knuckle was causing the pain, if I use the pad of my finger it's fine. I had always heard to use the pad of your finger but I thought it was okay to do otherwise when the trigger was too heavy/slick to do so effectively. Guess I just need to get a stronger grip, my pad slips a little bit when pulling in DA.
  6. Should I be concerned about the finger pain? I'm worried about giving myself the finger equivalent of tennis elbow. I'm also on the computer all day so I use that finger a lot for typing.
  7. I’ve started doing a lot more dry fire practice. I’m still very new so I’ve been focusing on just holding the pistol well and pulling the trigger without disturbing the sights. I’ve been “shooting” DA with a stock CZ-85, since I figured that any small mistakes I might miss in SA will be amplified in DA. The problem is that after maybe 5-6 days of this I’m getting pain in my trigger finger. I’m worried that I might be doing something wrong and causing damage to my tendons. I’ve noticed that my trigger finger has to sort of rotate down as well as pulling back because of the way the trigger travels. Is that possibly it, or am I just overtraining since instead of timed drills / draws / transitions I’m just pulling the trigger over and over? I would guess I’m pulling the trigger maybe 50-60 times in a night from DA, which doesn’t seem like it should be that much. Maybe another 10-12 in SA. I could be off, though. It’s just something I do time to time with Netflix in the background or while a game is loading. One thing I had been doing per someone’s recommendation to build up endurance was just holding the pistol out at arm’s length and pulling the trigger until my arm or finger wore out, which really doesn’t take nearly as long as I expected. I’ve stopped all dry firing since I noticed the pain, since it really doesn’t feel like muscle pain.
  8. Thanks. CZC is a bit cheaper and I need a factory part from them anyway so I guess I’ll start with them.
  9. Has anyone had experience with both the CGW and CZC hammer springs? I was planning on getting a CGW ultra-lite kit, but I also need a magazine brake top pin and only CZC has those in stock. I know the weights are slightly different, CGW has a 11.5# whereas CZC has an 11# and a 12#. I also feel a bit weird getting the RAMI firing pin spring rather than one specifically made for the extended firing pin and lower weight hammer spring, but if that's something people do that works I guess it's no odder than using (for example) a Cougar D spring in a Beretta PX4.
  10. I've got a transitional model CZ-85 coming in that was made in '93 or earlier (says Czechoslovakia) and it has seen better days. Are there any parts I should expect to need to replace immediately? I'm thinking of picking up some springs from CGW if I want to improve trigger pull, but I'm not sure if there are any little bits in there that I should expect to break immediately. It looks like it was a police surplus pistol, the finish is almost all gone but the bore looks fairly good from the pictures. I've wanted a CZ-85 since I was a teenager and this one is a steal even with the condition it's in, so I'm very excited. Seems like without the FPB it's also well on its way to having a fantastic trigger for competition when I eventually get out on a Saturday.
  11. Has anyone shot both of these? How do they compare? I would assume the trigger is similar, how much does the aluminum frame and different barrel length/frame size impact the shooting of it? I found a cheap Cajunized P-01 and while I had been mainly looking at the P-07, it seems like a great deal and the old style magazines are also miles cheaper than the new ones, so that's a bonus. It's got the professional package from CGW in there, my understanding is it brings the trigger to a crisp 8.5/2.5-3 with the 18 pound spring usually? If needed there's a gunsmithing school about 45 minutes to an hour away that apparently does good work for cheap (Colorado School of Trades) depending on whether I feel like getting the tools to do any remaining polishing/grinding myself. I also only have the budget for one gun both for range/competition and carry, so the slightly smaller frame is a bit of a plus there. I had always heard good things about the original P-01, but never got my hands on one.
  12. Thanks. It looks like he doesn't have any 15 round full-sized magazines for the PX4, but that's a good option for other models. Turns out the gun sold just a few days before I went back for it, so it's probably a moot point and I'm kicking myself hard right now.
  13. I might be picking up a full sized PX4 depending on how good of a deal I can get from the shop, but I have one concern. I’m in CO, with a 15 round limit on magazines. That means that the compact is perfect, but for the full size I would have to choose between 10 round magazines or trying to get 17 rounders pinned to 15. I see that the backstraps on the PX4 are attached with a U-shaped pin on the bottom, but I was wondering if it’s possible to chop half an inch off the bottom of the grip, chop half an inch off that pin, and have it the same height as a PX4 compact. It looks like the backstrap doesn’t even start until about half an inch up the grip anyway. Alternately I have heard the magazine catch is only a few thousandths of an inch higher on the PX4 than 92, so some people have dremeled the 92 magazines to fit. I wouldn’t trust my life to that, but if that fits the full size it might be good enough for range use. As another alternative, does anyone know how Beretta limits their 10 round magazines? Do they pinch the magazine along the side like some companies do or is it an internal block/pin? If it’s that I might be able to get 10s and modify the block to fit 15.
  14. Haha, I've had this handle for so long sometimes I even forget what it is. I actually have a .22 already, that's what most of my experience is with. It was an 18th birthday gift from my dad, 5.5" Buckmark, fantastic pistol. I put some white-out on the front sight to make it stand out more, works well. It's currently in pieces because when reassembling it after doing the Heggis Flip the buffer decided to rocket off into the great beyond and I haven't found it yet. Great pistol, though, and of a vintage where the flip seems to work well. I don't have a trigger pull gauge but it definitely reduced it quite a bit when comparing to the PPQ. The PPQ used to be about the same weight although more pre-travel, now the Buckmark is way lighter assuming the slide doesn't add any weight to it (which mechanically it doesn't seem like it should). Am I understanding the grip thing from the Hwansik Kim podcast? Loose on the sides of the grip to avoid uneven pressure, tight on the front an back, flex your forearms to pre-load your tendons? It definitely feels better than the outward elbow rotation I was trying after watching a Mike Seeklander video, but I could be overly rotating and putting too much strain on my elbows when doing that way. I've got decently strong forearms leftover from my weightlifting days as well, so I think I could maintain that. I was getting a lot of side-to-side movement with the PPQ when I took it to the range, so I think I must have been applying a lot of uneven pressure to the grip. He mentioned having the palms together at the back of the grip too, how does that work? Usually my whole strong hand is wrapped around the back, so there wouldn't be any room for that without rotating my weak hand way back from the rotated forward position I tend to have it in. Maybe I'm misunderstanding that part. It seems difficult to apply pressure on the back of the grip with your weak hand. I currently don't have the money to buy more ammo and the nearest outdoor range is about an hour and a half away, so right now I'm just doing a lot of dry fire and reload practice. Doing like I think the podcast was saying has helped keep my sight alignment through the pull, but it's definitely going to take a few hundred / thousand rounds of dry fire to do it naturally, I had always been told to squeeze the grip like you were trying to wring the oil out of it.
  15. Holy cow. Between swapping the bigger backstrap in and focusing on gripping like he was talking about I've gone from significant sight wobble rested to barely any wobble off-hand in less than 20 dry fire reps. I'll have to wait until I can go to the range again to look at the amount I actually need to pull down like he was talking about on there. Also working on locking the wrists like he mentioned. Off-hand is easy, trigger hand less so.
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