Harpo

OAL is one of those things you'll have to experiment with to know for sure: start at your max length, find the most accurate powder charge, then shorten the OAL a little at a time(I use 0.01" increments, but some use 0.005" increments), watching for pressure signs as you go. Some powders can get really "spikey" if you get too short, so that's something to be aware of. Bullet diameter will also take some experimenting. In the barrel I use the most(and therefore work up loads with), I found that it prefers the larger diameters: .356 plated is more accurate than .355, and the one .357 coated bullet I've tried was more accurate and cleaner than the .356 version of the same. That said, when going to larger diameters, you'll have to keep an eye on your crimp and adjust as needed to avoid denting the bullets(which can really hurt accuracy). Larger diameters will also go a little faster for the same powder charge, so working up your charge whenever you change diameters is a good idea(basically mandatory - just cut the powder back a couple tenths of a grain, then work it back up). As @superdude said, " Your barrel will tell you what it likes. " Finding what your barrel likes can take a lot of time experimenting, but if your ultimate goal is maximum accuracy, that's what it'll take to get there.

I'm liking that... Doesn't have the ability to hide targets the way barrels do(such that they get looked over), and would take a few extra target stands, but it looks like they would be really easy to move/set up, as well as not taking up much storage space. Could also use those in conjunction with other walls to make some interesting layouts.

If it makes you feel any better, I appreciated the 13 year old thread bump - probably wouldn't have seen it otherwise, and I do enjoy seeing what the veterans of the sport have to say, especially their personal race gun progressions/advancement

"Beer can grip" - I like it. I'm in that camp as well: bullets forward for pistol, back for rifle(using my back pocket as a mag carrier).

I've have good experience with Eklind and Bondhus allen wrenches, and the Brownells magna-tip screwdriver set is bomb-diggity - I'm planning to eventually get all of the optional tip sets. I currently only have the blade style bits, but they've saved me from boogering up fasteners or scarring finishes enough times to have already paid for themselves. As far as other gear, I can echo the prior comments: In general, the big name US(and some Japanese) made brands tend to be quite good(Starret, Proto, etc), and Harbor Freight's place is in tools where you just need them for the occasional specialized task or have a high likelihood of, say, dropping in the lake/river/bay. All of that said, the only specialized tools you'll be likely to need for most AR builds would be a combination wrench(for stock and barrel nut installation), roll pin and other punches, and some sort of a vice block(mostly for barrel/handguard installation - I have a Wheeler engineering upper receiver vice block that served me well enough for a handguard installation). Other than that, the other tools would be light hammer, screwdrivers, allen wrenches, and a torque wrench.

I haven't had to do it myself, but you might be able to solve that by peening the end of the pin/hinge(support the other side, then use a punch or chisel to swell the pin metal to hold it together).

Looking at my notes, 2.8-3.0 gr of Bullseye or Titegroup behind a coated 147gr bullet makes for a soft load, but accuracy wasn't as good as with full power stuff.

I know you specified Titegroup, but the softest load I've encountered was a minimum charge of Bullseye under a coated 147gr bullet. Can't remember what the charge weight was, but I did get it from a manual(I'm thinking the Lyman lead book...), seems like it was 2.8 or 3.0gr of Bullseye. It was smokey, and probably dirty(didn't run enough rounds through to be sure), but recoil was so soft that I was surprised that it cycled the slide. Can't recall the accuracy without consulting my notebook, but it was probably decent. I'll try to update with real data later if I can remember.

Agreed: Keep to your routine, or a known good routine, and that should help performance. Personally, I enjoy a morning cup up of coffee, and it takes about 4 cups on an empty stomach to cause problems, so one or two cups with breakfast if fine. I also know that my hands start shaking slightly when I haven't eaten. Solution: I keep snacks in my range bag. Dehydration also kills energy, focus, and mental ability, so I always take plenty of water(it might be about a gallon, now that I think of it) and keep drinking on it throughout the day.

Can't say with 100% certainty, but my initial thought would be that the clearance is such that the striker is sitting too close to the trigger assembly. Bending the contact area of the cruciform down would probably fix that if that were the case... Others with more experience than me might know of other solutions though.

+1 on the "Low power = small objective" theory. And I personally think it would be fun to try a 1.5-8x40, if nothing else to try low-light use at minimum magnification.

I'm a fan of Surefires - US made, bright, and they always work. I often carry a P2X Fury, and keep a G2X in my car. Both are dual output, so they last a long time on the low setting(CR123a batteries), but can really put out the lumens when on high level. I would recommend either to anybody who was in the midsize light market. The past several months, I've also been carrying a Streamlight Microstream, and it's pretty sweet too: $20, about the size of a tube of chapstick, runs off a single AAA, and has a reasonable level of output, especially for the size. One of my coworkers has a Fenix that he's pretty fond of, the brand looks promising. (I only haven't bought one because they don't seem to be US made - might try an Elzetta before I go the Fenix route because of that)

Bringing back a bit of an old thread, but I've got a question for people running Dragonfly slides in general, but on 34s in particular: Are you still liking them? Midway has(or had) them on sale at a price point that would make them run about the same as a factory one, but I'm still not sure if they're worth it. Specifically, I'm wondering about overall quality, compatibility with different parts, longevity, and balance/feel. Thinking about doing a 34-length P80 limited blaster, but I haven't decided on all the components(and I am comfortable tweaking parts if needed, just would rather avoid it for peace of mind).

There are several methods I've heard for deciding on/setting the crimp, and you can use whatever method you like. I've heard of people: Gradually closing the bell until it'll just "plunk" --that is, drop freely into the barrel, and some people spin it too--. Adding the diameter of the bullet to twice the thickness of the case wall(and some people subtract 0.001" from that number). An example, just using the numbers found here(because I don't have my notes or any brass nearby) would be: 0.452" + (2 x 0.09") = 0.470" Gradually closing the bell until it leaves a slight impression in a bullet(you have to pull the bullet to check), then adjusting to have a little less crimp. My method, using plated and coated bullets with range brass, is to use the formula(I think I'm in the camp of subtracting 0.001", but don't quote me on that) to get approximately where you want it, then pull a few to make sure I'm not leaving a dent. I do it this way simply because there's enough variance that I could go crazy chasing the "perfect crimp", instead of just accepting that not every round will be within 0.001" of what I'm aiming for.

Looks normal to me as well.

Welcome! Just to echo what others have said, I'd agree that the best thing to do is run what you have or go and observe a match and see what people there are running. In your case, that would probably mean running the S&W and loading from a pocket, or getting a few extra G2C mags and shooting in limited, neither of which very competitive, but it would allow you to get your feet wet without laying out much cash. You won't win your first match(I've never heard of anybody winning their first one anyways ), so just focus on safety and have a good time. But since there won't be any matches until March(and besides, this is as good an excuse as any to buy a new pistol ), I'd recommend handling some different pistols before buying, just to see how different models fit your hands. Glocks are a solid choice, and if you decide to go the used route, the initial investment and resell value should be reasonable.

My current setup is: 1)Dillon size die (primarily because of the spring-loaded decapping pin) 2)Drop and expand with PTX 3)RCBS Lockout die 4)Dillon seating die 5)Dillon crimp die (adjustments on #4 & #5 can be rather annoying to adjust on the LNL unless you replace the lock rings) This is mounted on an Inline Ultramount with a Skylight and vertical lightstrip. Works well for me, and if I decide to add a bulletfeeder, I can combine seat and crimp(if I can make it work with coated bullets - haven't had a ton of success with that yet). Little tip on fine tuning the PTX with a lockout die installed: if you're hitting the lockout die rod or primer tube with the powder drop assembly, and moving one "step" on the lock and load lugs still has you lined up wrong, don't forget that you can loosen up the clamps where the linkage is mounted and rotate everything to exactly where you need it. This took me longer to realize than I care to admit.

I've got a Swenson on a P80 19, and it's been pretty good, especially considering the price. The front bevel doesn't match the frame, but that's just aesthetic. I've heard that they run a little taller than the factory slides(enough to affect holster fit somewhat - but I can't confirm that personally). Several reviews mention them jamming when used with SilencerCo barrels, due to the shape of the area in the ejection port binding on slightly rough interior machining(it's a very slight step - took me a long time to find it) near the muzzle. It's hard for me to explain without photos, but if you compare the area of the factory or Faxon barrels that's visible near the front of the ejection port against that of some SilencerCo, L2D, or Lantac barrels, you'll see what I'm talking about. I fixed mine by filing a tiny amount off that part of my barrel. Other than that, my Swenson has been great - No fitting needed for slide components, doesn't fit any sloppier than a factory slide, finish seems even and durable, and the slide serrations are nice and sharp. In short: they are a good deal, but may require a little bit of planning or fitting to work reliably.

I've seen this randomly with my LNL, and it does seem to be brass related, although I can't isolate it to clean, dirty, or a particular headstamp.

+1 on this method, makes for smoother press operation and non-slippery mag loading. I've been using this system since switching to a progressive(and have been able to use up some awful Lyman spray lube that would give me stuck and dented .223 cases at the same time).

Agreed. Accuracy is critical: who cares how soft something feels if you can't hit what you're aiming at? If you're comfortable with that load, keep running it. If not, it shouldn't hurt to drop it to 900fps or so, assuming you retain accuracy there. Personally, I'm currently leaning towards a 915-940fps load for 147gr coated(just haven't completely decided which powder charge to use), simply because I like the accuracy and feel of it.

I can't think of any videos, but 60 grit SiC should be the same from any vendor. Most people seem to use a medium cure rate two-part epoxy(I believe I used "Bob Smith mid-cure epoxy" from Amazon). As with any coating, surface preparation is the key, and the amount of preparation needed varies. With my "Ready-Mod" Polymer80 frame, I didn't rough up the surface enough, causing a tiny amount of flaking around one of the edges, but if I had stippled it first or sanded it more roughly, I'm sure that wouldn't have happened. The worst thing about epoxy is how hard it is to get it off of places you don't want it, so be sure to tape off any parts of the frame where you don't want grit or glue.

Depending on thumb height, I would say yes. If your support thumb is on the frame and you don't have a thumbrest(or frame contouring) that helps you to exert force downwards, that could very well drive you to the side. If your support thumb is riding the slide, it can also interfere with slide movement/speed, which can cause problems with timing and feeding, especially if you have front serrations.

Polymer80 makes a magwell of their own now, but looking at the photos it doesn't seem to have that big of an opening. Cain Arms and Farrow Tech offer 3D printed ones that look to have bigger openings, but would weigh less. I haven't had any firsthand experience with any of them, but they all say they're designed for those frames. If you have access to a 3D printer, a Glock magwell can be made to fit with the help of a box cutter/X-acto, lighter, and brute force.