Harpo

Did this solve your problem? If all you did was change springs(ie: if it was working, then you changed springs, now it isn't), adding a little more tension to the grip safety leg should solve it. Otherwise you may need to peen the nose of the stop-bar(for lack of a better term) or replace the grip safety. If the gun is new enough, or came that way, warranty should cover the repair.

Not to necropost, but I've been using the Champion ones from that link(which work great over my prescription glasses), and my only complaint is that they do start to dig into my head and get uncomfortable about halfway/three-quarters of the way through the day with my Walker Razors(which, admittedly, don't have the most cushioned ear cups). Other that, they're clear, haven't gotten too scuffed over the past year and a half of use, and feel fairly sturdy. Currently I'm looking at getting a set of ESS Crossbows to replace them, which I'll try to use with contacts(which I've never worn before), and if that doesn't work, I'll buy a prescription insert set.

Seems like the end conclusion of that test that: a)enough money was saved over the lifespan to pay for new barrels(not fancy ones, but still) b)the barrels would have lasted longer than they had if they would have cleaned them and hadn't been doing so many mag dumps. That said, I don't use much steel, but I have heard of people having problems with it sticking/binding in some polymer magazines, such as the Magpul Glock mags.

Could also be yellowjackets/wasps, rather than actual bees... Some of us have been known to call most "flying stingy" type critters bees, just because that's easier to do than trying to figure out if they're bees, wasps, or hornets :D (Could be a regional thing, I don't know. I'm a little bit north of Homie, so he might be able to back me up... Or just confirm that everyone I know prefers to use vague language :p ). Either way, sucks to have to throw a stage out, but it's a good thing nobody had an allergic reaction.

No experience with the Hi-Speed National Match, but I have an SSA-E that I like pretty well - decent weight and feel, with no doubles or light strikes. That said, while I like a nice trigger, I'm not one to worry about the feel being 'perfect' or whatever, as long as it's reasonably weighted/not super heavy or light(M77s get an immediate Timney upgrade ), safe, and consistent. There are a lot of good options out there, and I'd recommend trying a few different ones if possible, just to see what you like.

That's pretty much the load I started with. And I think that HS-6 is a good powder to start with as a new pistol reloader because as you mentioned, it's hard to double charge, plus it's pretty forgiving if you're running on the top end(sounds like it's semi-common among 9 Major shooters) accidentally, and it gives pretty good accuracy. It does get a little dirty on ~130pf 9mm loads, but it wipes right off. Other powders to try later might be Titegroup(versatile, but has a low charge weight, which is fine if you have good quality control), Sport Pistol(sounds like it's similar to N320, but cheaper. Supposed to be cooler than Titegroup, plus a little "fluffier"), or W231/HP-38(classic powder for 9 and 45 ACP, and while a number of people run it with heavy bullets, Hodgdon doesn't recommend it for 147s, but it would be good for 115s or 124s)

Having a stock of the "wrong" weight of bullets shouldn't hurt you, competitively speaking, as long as your gun likes that weight. I have trouble telling the difference in impulse between 115s and 124s at the same power factor, but every pistol/barrel I've tried those loads shot the 115s more accurately. (That said, I really like the feel and accuracy of 147s, and the velocities they run at lead my barrels less with coated bullets) I'd say just find a good load, run those until your components are used up, then try a different weight. If it shoots accurately enough, the only difference is the recoil impulse, which shouldn't affect your overall time enough to matter if you have good stance and grip. (Disclaimer - I'm just a C-class nobody, but I've spend more time than I should've trying to find that "magic load", and finally got to the point of realizing that I have many other things to work on before bullet weight influences my match placement at all. I enjoy reloading, but it's easy to get sucked down a rabbit hole trying a couple hundred rounds of this or that to see what's "best")

https://www.hodgdon.com/cfe-pistol/ Under the description and SDS link there are a pair of dropdowns that can be used to find loading data.

While I haven't worn them in a match yet, I've been running in a set of Altra Lone Peak 4s lately and can't find anything bad to say about them - they feel like they'd do well on gravel, concrete, and fault lines, and wearing them all day wouldn't be an issue at all. Incredibly comfortable, with an aggressive, yet grippy tread(can't report firsthand on longevity at this point), wide toe-box, and zero drop. I can't directly compare them to Salomons personally, but reviews(mostly on trailrunning sites) indicate that the Salomons have a more aggressive tread pattern, taller heel, and narrower fit.

Your best bet might be to go to a match and try what people there have. Otherwise, the Taccom caddies are a pretty decent deal - the one that I have has a little wobble to it, but it cost half of what some of the 'nicer' ones did and will show you if duals are the way to go or if you can handle quads. I went with an eight shell caddy(I think it's the 'sport' model) that holds two quads, but I can snatch out duals if needed, so I could see which method fit me best.

I've really been liking The Three Gun show. Triangle Tactical, and That Shooting Show are both pretty good too. I find that the ones with multiple hosts or host/guests are easier to listen to(that's why I prefer Triangle Tactical to Berry's solo podcast - it's just easier for me to pay attention that way) you also get more--and clearer-- information when you have different people involved. Since I found the Three Gun show(mid-March), that's been constantly playing during my commute. If you like Van Halen and don't mind random dog noises, Anderson has a lot ton of good info, but audio quality varies and it would help to re-listen at times to really get all that he's saying.

On Red Hills site, under Glock holsters, you can select P80 19/23 or P80 34/35 from the drop down. I'd imagine the 34-sized one would work fine. Littlegat, Squared Away Customs, C and G Holsters, and M2 Tactical Solutions all list compatible holsters.

For sure! I have three acceptance levels for case gauging, and keep an example of one that failed(and I know will jam up my pistol) in the box with my case gauge. My three levels are match, practice, and fail. Match level ones, I can't get out with just a fingernail. Practice rounds stick up enough that I can pull them out with a fingernail, but don't stick up as high as rounds that fail(If they're on the edge, I'll either set them aside in kind of a 'practice, but remember a squib rod or something similar' pile). And fails obviously go into the can of ones that need pulled. With .357"(and my barrel), my acceptance for "match" is that they seat to the bottom edge of the extractor groove, otherwise it's all the same.

Depends on your chamber. You have to know how much can be allowed to stick up and still run in your gun. If they fit flush enough that I can't use my fingernail to lift them out of the gauge, I put them in plastic boxes or factory 50rd boxes with "match gauged" sharpied on them. If they stick up more than that, but not enough to cause a jam(I know how much is acceptable from trial and error - yay for range brass ), they go into the practice can. Note: bullet size plays in here too. I'm currently working my way through a lot that I know had the sizing die set right, and hasn't caused my gun any problems, but because they were .357" instead of .356" or .355", none of them sat flush in my Shockbottle, so gauging has become more of a judgement call than usual.

Haven't bent a Dillon pin yet, but when I was having problems with primer drawback on my 9mm die, filing a set of angles on the tip -- so that it hit the primer off-center -- instantly cured the drawback problem.

You might consider running factory mags - I have a few ETS mags, and they've been decent, but the springs aren't as stiff as I would like(added a Wolff extra power spring to one of them, and that helped).

That caught my attention too, that seems a little odd...

At the match 15 minutes from me, the $20 match fee is waived if you help with setup/teardown. [Side note: several times last year, there were a number of people who signed up to help set up and tear down, and while we usually seemed to have plenty of people setting up, only about 4 of us ended up staying long enough to put everything away. Because of that, and I need to pitch this idea to the MD, I think he should discount $10 for setup, then if you stick around and help put everything away -- rather than just tearing down and leaving a pile of stuff in the front of the bays -- you get your $10 back, effectively waiving the $20 but ensuring that people stick around long enough to do what they signed up for when registering.] At the match 2.5 hours from me, it's supposed to be $5 off the $20 fee for helping with setup, but since I rarely have the exact change for paying cash, and the link for paying $15 with card never gets sent, I end up paying full price for that one. That said, I'm already investing 5 hours of driving and gas, so the extra $5 is negligible, especially considering that the people are friendlier(different culture that side of the mountains) and everybody helps tear down afterwards.

ACME will do .357 if you send them an email. Place your order, then email them your order number and tell them that you want them sized to .357"

I've had decent results with 231 and Titegroup. HS-6 was pretty good too, and Bullseye is the old school option, but both seem a bit dirtier than 231 and TG.

If I'm reading that correctly, you're having more trouble after sanding? If so, you might need to either remove a little more material or slick up the contact points with maybe some silicon based lube or wax - apply it, then rub off what you can(I'm thinking along the lines of what some people do with pistol mag carriers, or ski waxing).

In my experience, the stock and mag release can both make a difference. If rubbing on the stock, sandpaper the sides of the magwell slightly. If the mags aren't rubbing on the sides of the stock, an extended release may be the ticket, mostly because they let you "push the button in further", for lack of better explanation. Note: extended releases, though nice, can lead to accidentally tumbling out the mags when you don't want them to(snagging on belts, packs, fences, whatever) -- not a big deal in most competition, just something to watch out for. I think the easiest way to isolate what needs changed is to separate the stock from the action and see where they are hanging up by test fitting in each. They should drop though the stock, and also drop free of the receiver, if that makes sense.

Hodgdon shows 1.15" OAL for that bullet in their load data, but doesn't have FMJ data to compare against. I can't tell you the difference in case volume, but if that plunks in your barrel, you can use Hodgdons info to work up your loads for your bullet/powder combination(depending on whose powder you're using, obviously).

Bigger bullets can actually help reduce leading, as they fit more tightly to the bore, helping scrape away lead left behind by previous bullets. When loading plain lead bullets(I'm sure it applies to coated as well - still conducting tests, personally), they say that fit is one of the biggest parts in preventing leading. And they do bump pressure up a little, which is why you want to drop your powder charge a bit and work back up. But the way I've heard it, you'll be having problems chambering before you need to worry about pressure. The bullets were all good - plated were HSM(.355") and Berrys(.356"), and seemed about as consistent as any other plated I've tried. Coated were ACMEs, which have been extremely consistent for the little I've used - among the best coated I've run yet(once I choose a weight on those, I'll definitely be making a bulk order) Gun is a Glock 19, used the stock barrel for plated, then I moved to a Faxon barrel for coated.

This may also be something to look into: How are you shooting your groups? When testing loads, you want to take yourself out of the equation as much as possible: I shoot seated, with my back against something solid, steadying/resting my arms on my knees, and focusing on trigger pull/sight alignment. A lot of people use sandbags on a bench or table to support their hands/pistol instead, which is a really good system if it works for you and your setup.