Harpo

I have some VZ Operator II panels(and am thinking about going to the Techwell version of them), but the front portion has the aggressive golf ball pattern of VZ Recons, which look similar to the Lok Bogies. Are you wanting something more aggressive than the Bogies, or just seeing what other options are out there?

Red Hill makes holsters that fit P80s as well. I have one of their thumb break retention holsters for my 34 sized build. No photos yet, but it seems to fit properly and be well made.

R&R Targets makes a couple(one is his own design, the other is a modded Vepr clone from Turkey) and both have AR-style controls. I've only seen one in person, a Wright-12, and it seemed to run pretty good.

Looks like a good bag! The dedicated/labeled pouches remind me of the one from DAA. Personally, I'm running a Spec-Ops Brand T.H.E. Pack, Tactical(that's a mouthful!) for USPSA and hunting. It also works as a carry-on bag on most flights if you don't stuff it completely full. It's held up really well, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again. For 3-gun, I've been using a tool bag from Home Depot or Lowes, which sounds kind of similar to the electrician's bag @XDoctor mentioned. Don't remember the brand or dimensions, but the tool pockets around the outside and inside work great for mags, and everything else fits in the main "compartment" of the bag. It came with a shoulder strap that seems sturdy enough, and it fits everything I need for a club match. Normal loadout for USPSA in backpack - 1gal water jug, 10 loaded mags, pistol in a soft case, ear & eye pro, 200-300rd 9mm, gloves, hat, bandaids, snacks, screwdriver, squib rod, and I use one of the cinch straps to hold my belt when I'm not wearing it. Normal loadout for 3-gun, in tool bag - 5 loaded 140mm mags, choke tube case and wrench, eye & ear pro, 100rd 9mm, 100rd .223, two boxes of birdshot, one small box of turkey loads, screwdriver, simple spares kit, chamber flags, 2-3 loaded 30rd mags, a 30rd/40rd coupled pair, a D60(not because I need it, but because it's fun ), gloves, snacks, and gatoraid(carrying my water jug). I could, admittedly, not bring the extra 9 and .223, spare chokes, and turkey loads, but because this way I don't have to go back to my car to get anything.

Limited minor is a fine place to start, and that setup shouldn't hold you back for a while. If you want power factor to play in less, I would ditch the magwell, pick up 6 new mags, and play in Production. Get out there and have fun!

Have you considered competing with a concealment holster? Draws may be a little slower, but still manageable. I've seen a couple folks running carry holsters and doing ok. Just have to be careful reholstering. That said, I use a Crossbreed for carry, Bladetech for competition, and sometimes I'll wear a Serpa while hunting.

Work crew volunteering saves money, lets you have a better feel for stages, and makes life easier for the MD, so that's a win-win. The other cool thing with GSSF is that sometimes they'll bring used mags that you can buy at steep discounts. I can neither confirm nor deny that I've purchased enough mags to pay for my GSSF membership cost out of the savings...

That sucks about the knee. If the new block is correct in terms of rotation, you might use a business card or something to shim the block forward off the shoulder the width of that retainer plate(though some blocks do compensate for that distance).

Oh, short stroking/undergassed makes sense. Was the gas block you had switched to misaligned or did it have something wrong with the port in it(plugged by a burr or something)? If the original was an A2 style front sight gas block, and it didn't fit under the handguard, you could cut it down and reinstall it. If it was just a simple misalignment the carbon ring around the port should tell you if it was centered/which direction to move it. Good luck!

I think(though I may be mistaken) that part of the issue there was from people prying with just the tube and/or pulling the bar partway out for more leverage.

There's a pattern here.... The issues you're having could both be caused by a dirty(overgreased from factory) or dry bolt carrier group. Pull it out, clean it off(and clean inside the rifle, including bolt lugs), add oil: a drop or two into the gas key, onto the cam pin, thin layer on the bolt lugs, and thin layer on the bearing surfaces of the carrier(if you aren't sure where on the carrier, just get the whole thing oily).

Help tear down after locals and scrounge targets that aren't too mangled - no-shoots and head box only ones tend to be in pretty good condition.

I've gotten some pretty good groups with 52gr Nosler Custom Competition(which are available in 1k quantities), 55gr V-Max(250 count is the most I can remember seeing), and 69gr SMK(I have no idea what quantities are available). I've also had just over 1" 5-shot groups at 100yd with Berry's FMJs(which I've heard some people say are repackaged Hornadys - I can't say if that's true or not, it's just what I've heard), so a lot of this comes down to your load workup, technique, what your rifle likes, and what you determine is "good enough"(I've probably spent more time than I should have chasing "the perfect load"). All punch paper well enough, and under 200yd it would be hard to argue with the price point of FMJs. If varmints were in the equation, a V-Max does wonders, and the Custom Competitions aren't too shabby either.

Bingo. Different bullet weights will have different data(lighter charges for heavier bullets), so you'll definitely want to refer to a manual. As I recall, my 55gr FMJ/CFE-223 load uses 26.5gr of powder(which, of course, is only 0.5gr over minimum), and runs fine in multiple .223 Rem and 5.56x45 rifles/uppers. As far as saving money, the difference between 25.5 and 26.5 is only ten rounds per pound, which is nothing in the grand scheme of things if it gives you reliable cycling. (25.5 = 274rd/lb, 26.5 = 264rd/lb)

I had that issue on my LNL this past week(before I discovered that I had a higher gauge pass rate with my Hornady dies, of course :p ). I just flipped over the lock nut so that the o-ring was on top to make it work for me. If it's working ok with the other nut on there, I'd personally just run it that way.

+1 on the Darn Toughs. I have several pairs, and plan to buy nothing else going forward. Absolutely the bomb. If your feet are staying dry enough, I'd just run normal competition shoes with a set of good wool socks.

If you have the 870, run the 870 until you know what you like and don't like about it. I'm running a SuperNova with a tube. I feel that the stock port is fine for quads(though some chop the forend up to make it easier), and I didn't have to drill dimples or anything like that to make the tube work. Haven't run an 870 enough to comment on the trigger, or much else, for that matter, but I did notice with slugs at 100yd that the SN trigger is really heavy. If the 870 is a 3.5" gun, the loading port may be ok for quads, but on the 2.5"(or maybe 3") that I have access to seems like the port is a little "deep", with a steep triggerguard, which may make it a little trickier.

Bit of a necro-bump, but this seems like the best place to put it: I got a casefeeder for my LNL, and it has been mostly good, except for cases hanging up in the funnel, between the collator plate and drop aperture(can't think of a better description at the moment), or between the bowl and plate after the aperture. I saw this(https://www.sassybrass.com/sassybrass/product/casecage/) and made my own version of it(just because I didn't want to wait for shipping) with parts from the hardware store. Installation and alignment took about ten minutes and it looks like it should fix all of the issues I was having with the feeder. Loading 9mm, by the way.

Glad to hear you were able to fix your problem OP. If the issue returns, try what these posts recommend on one of your pins. I had that issue until I added a set of angles to the tip, and haven't had a single primer pullback since then. I'll try to post a photo later if I get the time, but I did it a little different than some describe, to ensure off-center hits. Not sure if this makes sense or not, but if you are looking from the end and divide the tip into thirds, two of those thirds have angles filed and the third portion left alone. I haven't experimented with other styles to see if they work any differently though

If the .356" is working, I'd stick with it.

Both previous posters are correct: -Check the diameter on the new bullets -Try different loads in that pistol -Try that load in a different pistol If none of those show anything wrong, pull a bullet to verify you aren't leaving a crimp ring.

Not an open shooter, but what I've seen in the 9 Major threads, it seems to be a matter of personal preference, though the 115s should make more gas. Hollow points are supposed to deposit less lead in compensators because they don't have exposed lead bases(compared to FMJs); CMJs would also not have exposed bases.

Last weekend I had a primer hang up on the edge of a primer pocket and pop. It was a WSP. Several weeks before that, I had one hang up in my primer feed tube, and I don't know how many I've accidentally crunched. This makes me think L-N-Ls just don't like WSPs(maybe they're out of round or something). The only trouble I've had with CCIs(which I've run twice as many of through that press) has been due to me not leaning into the press enough on the priming step, so I'll be switching back to those for sure.

Those sound like .45 ACP numbers...

This. The Bayou 200s are basically H&G #68 style bullets, so 1.25" should be just right. That 231 should work great, and I've actually got fairly similar results with Titegroup, if you wanted to standardize on one powder.