mikehck55

That was an excellent answer thank you so much

I was wondering if anyone has had issues with their action not closing all the way and causing a misfire because the bolt does not fully turn. It seems that the bolt gets stuck on the pin inside the bolt carrier when the action doesn't close hard enough, then the firing pin doesn't reach the primer because the action isn't closed fully. Any one else with that issue that may have a solution?

Honestly, it's kinda BS that you should have to do any work on a gun that you buy to ensure that it works properly. But, I'm super happy with my M3000 and the minor fixes were cheap and easy. If you're looking for a no hassle no worry and can spare the money, a more expensive gun is the way to go. The M3000 is a heck of a bargain and if you do just a few minor things to it it will work as smooth as a gun that costs almost twice as much.

I would be surprised if your springs were worn out after 2k rounds, or cause that kind of malfunction if they were. I remember reading something in this forum about broken inertia springs (the one inside the bolt and around the firing pin) but I think that may have been from factory. Wouldn't hurt to take a look at it though. Have you polished your mag tube? I installed the MOA reduced recoil spring and I've even had pretty good luck cycling a lot of 1 oz rounds. Came in handy when I ran out of shells but still shot my 15 bird limit on opening day of dove season

From what I've read, when the shells are extracting but not ejecting, it is likely because the extractor grabs the rim of the shell, pulls back until the shell reaches the ejector, and then the extractor slips off the rim of the shell. This could be due to several possible reasons. You may want to inspect the ejector spring, it could be fouled up and just not allowing the ejector to compress the spring and do its job. I believe you can actually take a pin out and take the spring and ejector out? Not totally sure, you may want to look up how do this. This is a likely fix if you use dirty shells or don't clean often. The extractor may also just not be grabbing the rim of the shell and holding on well enough. Did you deburr the slot in the bolt where the extractor goes when you replaced the extractors? If you have scratches on the top and bottom sides (flat sides) of your extractor you are going to want to de burr the slot and maybe even replace your extractors again. See my above post. The extractor may not just be grabbing the shell securely enough in the first place. I have heard that some people have trouble with federal shells. They say newer federal shells have a more rounded rim that can be tough for some extractors to grab properly. You may also want to consider polishing/deburring/filing the slot in the piece of your barrel where the shell sits when the gun is loaded and where the extractor goes in to grab the shell. Sometimes I think a poor transition from this slot to the shell can cause the extractor to not grab well enough. You could also switch ammunition. Most people don't have issues with Remington gun club shells. That's what I primarily try to use, but Federals do work for me mostly. Every gun is different. Actually, I almost forgot, MOST IMPORTANTLY... are you using 1 1/8 oz shells? If you are using 1 oz shells they could be underpowered and just not giving enough force to the bolt to activate the aforementioned ejector spring. Let me know whatcha thing of all this.

MrPie, I would highly recommend taking a look at your extractors to see if they are scratched as I describe above. And then consider if you should replace them with Benelli extractors as well, makes a huge difference on ejection of the shell and cycling. I don't actually know anything about the mercury recoil reducer, but I do know the recoil spring has made a significant difference.

Ok everyone. I read through these 133 pages because I've been having a terrible time with extraction on my M3000. I was getting ready to throw the gun in the woods because it just won't cycle anything. But I found this thread and I've collected information on things to do with your M3000 or M3K to assist in the cycling of the gun. These points may not solve your specific problem, but (I think) they are a good summary of some things in this thread to help with cycling and extraction, especially of light loads. You may want to consider diagnosing your issue before going and swapping out a bunch of parts or doing a bunch of work. To diagnose, you can search through this thread, or try to ask questions on this thread. But it seems like most questions have already been answered. I'm a traditional wingshooter, not a 3-gun guy with a magazine extension and modified loading port. So I'm not really going to have solutions to those issues here. I'd really like to thank Tom, and Pat Kelley, from MOA, as well as everyone else with good input throughout this thread. It's awesome to see people in the industry putting in time and effort to help people with endless questions when it doesn't involve a payday. I did end up buying my parts from MOA. Lets jump in. Polishing your magazine tube. This is for people who own M3000's only, M3K guns already have a polished and coated mag tube. Use at least 320 grit, preferably 400 grit, sandpaper to polish your magazine tube. I think anything higher is too fine. I believe you can do it with or without oil. Some people have done this with a lathe, by removing the magazine tube with a little heat near the receiver to loosen the Loctite. I did this by hand with the tube still attached. Tom says to then "cross-hatch with oil and scochbrite", one of those green scrubby pads, I did not do this. There is also a possibility that there is a metal burr on the inside of one end of your recoil spring (the one that goes over the magazine tube), from where the spring was cut at the factory. There may be longitudinal scratches on your magazine tube if there is a burr present. Use sandpaper or a file to remove this burr. With a bit of oil, or even better, dry lubricant (graphite?), your recoil spring should now run smooth as butter on your mag tube. Keep an eye on the mag tube and clean and oil it often, it will now be susceptible to rust without the factory finish on it. Extractors. In the first 2/3 of this thread, people have been saying "change your extractors" "change your extractors". A little ways past page 100, Tom discovered that the slot in the carrier bolt in which the extractor sits has a pretty significant burr on the edge of it from the factory. This will be apparent if there are scratches along the sides of your extractor. IMPORTANT: when removing your extractor, look up a video on how to do so. If you go in there hammering at the first pin you see, you will damage the pin, and it will be MUCH harder to remove afterwards. I would recommend a small cylindrical file and then 400 grit sandpaper to remove the burr on the edges of this slot. You should not have to remove much material with a file. I only had sandpaper and it took forever.... After this. Change your extractors!! Get the Benelli extractors and extractor spring. MOA sells both as a package for $20. Brownells has them in and out of stock. Midway sells them. Use the Benelli part numbers. These extractors are interchangeable with a bunch of Benelli guns. You could probably deburr that slot without changing extractor and your gun would cycle, but the Benelli ones are just clearly a much higher quality. If you just change your extractor, the burr will just damage the new Benelli extractor after a while and you will be right back where you started. Ammunition. There's a lot of talk about ammunition. Some people say one thing works in their gun. Others say it don't. Every gun is different. But in general, these guns are made to run 1/8 oz 3 dram loads at the LEAST. If your gun runs 1 oz loads consistently, that's great, but not everyone's will. Certain brands of the cheaper boxes of ammo are also a pain for the M3000. Estate's are not going to be consistent. Winchester super x or whatever that stuff from Walmart is called is not going to work either. Federal's from Walmart have mixed reviews, some say the older stuff worked and the new doesn;t, some say it works, some say it's garbage. Rio's I've heard mixed reviews on, but my gun sure doesn't like them. Herter's, not a chance. The only cheap boxes that I haven't heard bad things about are the Remington gun clubs. But again, 1 1/8 rounds are your best bet. Also, if your competition scores are going to be affected by a malfunction (wingshooters can usually get away with several before they start becoming lost targets, sometimes you can get disqualified from malfunctions), just buy more expensive ammo!!! If you buy Winchester AA's you are sure to have a good time. Remington Nitros or STS are also good buys. I've actually struggled with Fiocchi's in the past but we'll see how they do after the work I've done. Other. MOA has a few other parts that are supposed to help with light loads. They sell a light load recoil spring that I have purchased (I'll edit this post and let you know how that goes). And they also have a new "heavy bolt carrier" that is supposed to assist with light loads. It says it is temporarily out of stock, they may be just now gearing up to sell that. I'm be tempted to buy it if I feel I am still having issues with light loads. Let me know if anyone knows anything about that. I'm interested People have also been having issues with the gun clicking but not firing, especially on the 2nd shot. This is called the 'Benelli click'. It happens when your bolt slams shut, and compresses the recoil spring just enough to push the bolt back enough to unseat it from the front of the receiver and the shell. The firing pin can't reach the shell at this point, so it will make no mark on your primer. I.... haven't had this problem, so I don't know what the solution is. But it may be here somewhere in this forum. Or I'm sure a google search of Benelli click might help. Sorry I'm not much help here... I have also noticed a few spots on my gun that had significant scratches and wear, which I'm sure were causing friction. There were a few places on the bottom and sides of the bolt, as well as the bottom and sides of the carrier where the bolt sits, that I polished with the 400 grit sandpaper. Remember that any place you polish is likely going to be susceptible to rust. So clean and oil your gun! I would appreciate any input from veterans of this thread! I've received lots of help from this thread and was just trying to make it a little easier for the next guy.