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dhdeal

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About dhdeal

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    Dale H Deal

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  1. When I ordered my Limited I got the EGD blue grips added. They looked great but were too thin as many had said (while doing as much online research as possible) and I eventually ordered a pair of LOK palm swell checkered grips. They looked as good as the EGD's, fit perfectly after a couple minutes with a small file, and fit my hand much better. I had gone through the same thing on 1911's some time back with putting thin grips on a custom, but ended up with LOK standard size for it too. My thought process had been that I'd rather have a grip a little to small than one too large. I have multiple nice thin grips in bags now and hope I'll learn the lesson that thin grips are thin and I'm not. If you look at the LOK Tanfoglio grips, the liners do look good on them. I went with blue grips and red liners.
  2. I don't use 320 even though I have an 8lb jug, but I do use everything else on your list. My Limited Custom is about 6 months old and came from Patriot Defense reamed. I can load the rounds as long as the mag will hold, but have standardized to 1.14". I have used the PD 124 grain JHP, 4.2 Sport Pistol, CCI 500 (550, WW sp, or Fed sp) @ 1.14" and they shoot fantastic. I doubt yours would be too much different. My favorite bullet is a RMR MW 124 fp loaded exactly the same as above though.
  3. I've gone down this road a while ago (run-out of ammo) but never used a progressive for the test. Gotta give it to you on trying with the progressive though. I'm more of a 600 yard Benchrest shooter and don't go through tons of ammo during a session so my needs are different than yours. I do have a 6.5 Grendel set up as an expensive 600 yard Benchrest toy and was pretty successful it getting it to be consistent (I still have it, but haven't played with it in years). Other than tuning the rifle, my main headaches in ammo was making my powder charges exact. There's a whole bunch of stuff going on in an AR when it goes boom and making the boom part the same made to bullets land closest to each other. Make no mistake, the other parts of loading were the same too, but I didn't worry about spinning my loaded rounds on the expensive contraption anymore (NECO tool for me). Not saying you shouldn't though. Again, I give you a thumbs up on the challenge. My shooting partner said it best when he said AR's are like high priced whores, no matter how much money you spend on them, they'll always break your heart.
  4. Ha! But it is dirty! Dirty, hot, and accurate that is. I've started to use Sport Pistol, and while relatively clean, is no more accurate than Titegroup in my 9's. I haven't taken my Limited apart yet (beyond field striping) but as I'm more than comfortable taking a 2011 down to the smallest part, I'll manage. I understand the aggravation of the OP in finding a new toy in the shape described. I'd be tempted to stick it in my ultrasonic cleaner.
  5. I wonder how long of an OAL your magazines will hold. When I bought my Limited from PD earlier this year, I could load them pretty long and pass a plunk test (1.16") but some of my magazines would allow the rounds to get stuck when I loaded over 17 rounds (all have the Henning +3-5 base pad). When I shortened the OAL to 1.15" and under, the magazines ran fine. I'm not loading them for a specific power factor, but for best accuracy. They run +/- 1100 fps with a 124 RMR FP and Sport Pistol. PD did their ream service as part of the package so I never knew what the factory chamber was. I also run a pair of 2011's that allow a long OAL so I can just load OAL to a "standard" and let them eat. The 2011's shoot everything great, but the Limited is picky about what it likes.
  6. If you shoot PRS, you are familiar with the 6.5×47L case and it's need for a small FP and small FP hole in the bolt face. In every one of my rifles chambered for this case regardless of bore size, if I don't have the small FP/FP hole I get some crazy looking fired primers. Point I'm making is you know what is working for your pistol. You know the velocity/power factor of your load, it's accurate in your pistol, and you probably have a good educated guess that the SPM/SR primers work for you situation. There are lots of threads all across the net that if you use a SPM or SR primer in 9mm the world could be moved off of it's axis. Well if that were true it would be moving (the earth) towards Juptier already just from my shooting the 9mm.... In the rifles I spoke of I use nothing but CCI450's. Don't really need the Magnum part of it, but do need the thicker cup so blanking won't occur (and the 450's are just so accurate across the board). Federal SR primers are too soft for the case I mentioned for my comfort. Pressure is pressure and if you can't lower it, do what you can to protect yourself from it. I'm not suggesting being foolhardy here but you already knew that.
  7. Great synopsis of a good reason to use SPP's in 9 Major. I doubt I'll ever go to 9 Major, but I deal with some high pressure cartridges (6BR, 6×47L, 6.5×47L, 6.5 Creedmoor to name a few) so I do watch primers pretty hard. I also have all my rifles firing pins either bushed or start out with a custom action with a small FP and FP hole to preclude primer flow or blanking. I don't think it's fun to get a face full of gas. I appreciate the explanation.
  8. Federal SRM GM are all I use for 357 Magnum as a precaution. Of course my 357 is a Freedom Arms 83 and I load it hot, but the SRM handle the pressure and never look like peanut butter smeared in the primer pocket (flat as a board). I don't load the 9 Major, but I do use a lot of Federal SR primers for 9mm. My loads shoot accurately and I never have to worry about blanking a primer. Over the years I've enjoyed reading how the Earth may cease to rotate if anyone were to use SR primers in a 9mm.
  9. This is an eye opening and hilarious thread. One topic much discussed about Tanfo's is the fact that they are all different. I suppose it's the Italian way. I'm used to rifle barrels being individuals, but reading about how many of you use the same parts and prep similarly getting different results proves it. Do you suppose they're all redheads? It sure doesn't mean I'll get rid of my newest Tanfoglio toy or that I won't buy another!
  10. I have some of the Lanolin lube but this is store bought from Buffalo Arms (resizing my really big BPCR cases) and it works slick as snot. I does make a mess but that's what my ultra sonic cleaner is for. I'll give it a try. My presses are attached with the Inline Fabrication mounts, but sizing some of those bases will still vibrate the bench a little. I also understand about wanting each loaded round as consistent as the next. Sorry about the off topic ramble.....
  11. I apologize for the quote, but wanted to make sure I saved this. I just purchased this Bulge Buster set up and sized a couple hundred rounds I had loaded up. I'm an accuracy and reliability first kind of guy so consistency of ammo figures into the equation. I noted that out of the 9mm ammo I have loaded, a few rounds would chamber but were tight. This ammo was loaded on my Dillon SDB before I picked up my Tanfo Limited Custom. For the heck of it I started measuring some of the rounds and noted the bases at the web were .001" larger. Under my magnifier you could see the bulge. The brass were all the same headstamp yet had been shot out of 2 different 2011's and a couple Gen5 G19's (none of which have large chambers). Anyway, the rounds that had the slight bulge were sticky in the Limited Custom barrel while doing a plunk test. It wasn't an OAL issue as this new gun had the Patriot Defense ream job as part of the package I had done. Long story short, after running the ammo through the Bulge Buster the ammo will drop right into the barrel and spin easily. I have read where some 9mm brass is large enough at the base to crack the carbide ring so that is why Lee has that warning on their website. I noticed that Blazer brass is all hard to size while Federal isn't quite as bad. Might just be the difference of alloy in the brass. I'll just lube the brass up and do a marathon sizing session. Thanks for posting this Johnbu.
  12. I have experienced it a couple times. The very first time (and only time so far) I shot my new Limited Custom. The magazines have the Grams kit and Henning +6 base plate. I do know the mag bodies are the 9-LF marked ones, but don't have any idea if that had anything to do with it. The other mag bodies are K9 marked with the Grams kit and Henning +6 base plate. I didn't have the issue with them. I have no idea if I'll have it happen again. It made it a pain to disassemble when it happened.
  13. Not on topic, but it looks like quite a bit of work goes on in that shop! Some of those long base pads might find they're way to SC soon. I don't really need 28+1 when I'm not shooting competitively anymore, but more is better....
  14. I can't help with what needs to be done (the experts are here though), but Patriot Defense did my trigger when I bought the pistol from them. What was done: Titan hammer Bolo PD springs Polish everything (parts look like a mirror) Stock trigger (their suggestion) CGW trigger pin My trigger pull is no more than 2 lbs and has minimal pre travel and over travel. Coming from custom 2011's, this trigger is lighter and smoother, but I had better be paying attention as there is no will be no easing up on this trigger.
  15. The one I just picked up wasn't listed as being in stock. I called with some questions and I was told they had 3 of that particular model on the shelf. It never hurts to ask.
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