jejb
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Posts posted by jejb
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I have always had great luck with Win primers, old and new. #41's, 209's, LRP, SRP. Never had a bad one in 10's of 1000's of them. Ran them through my RCBS loader, a Dillon 650 and now a Dillon 1100. I don't have any issues with any of the other common brands of primers either.
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On 3/1/2024 at 9:58 AM, LuvDog said:
contact stuart from CZC.
Cajun sells them too
This. I bought one from him a couple of years ago. He advertised it here.
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On 12/28/2023 at 8:43 AM, Farmer said:
I’d say Clays if you could find it but Alliant e3 would work well too. Only drawback is it’s flaky and some powder measures don’t play nice with it. The Lee auto drum works pretty good though.
Clays is great for low flash and works well with plated 115gr RN. Cycles all of our 9's with low recoil and low flash. But it does seem hard to get. I have a bunch, so the wife and I shoot it quite a bit.
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18 hours ago, w4rwf said:
I've been seeing a lot of that about the stock firing pin and spring igniting most anything out there.
Agreed. I did buy some #41 Winchester primers during the pandemic, 'cause they were fairly reasonably priced. I'd already been using SRP in 9mm with no issues, so figured they'd worked too. Wrong. So I bought the extended firing pin from GGW. Didn't make any difference, those are just hard primers. Worked great in my AR though.
I also had CGW mill the slide for an SRO. I'm very happy with their work.
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5 hours ago, crg said:
I have an 11.5 pound spring with factory firing pin and spring and haven't had any light strikes in about 1000 rds with S&B primers but it's a brand new spring so I may be dancing with fate.
I also use the 11.5# spring, from Cajun Gunworks. They have a lot of great options. DA is just in the 6-7lb range and very smooth.
As you read the feedback, some are talking about the non-trigger tuned S2's, so keep that in mind. I have 15+ thousand rounds through my S2 Orange and the trigger has always been smooth and crisp. Do a little spring swapping and I'm sure it will make you happy.
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On 10/25/2023 at 7:09 AM, B767capt said:
Nice! Thanks. It would be nice to be able to run some of those stick powders in a progressive.
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5 hours ago, m700 said:
I ordered a second swager hold down so that I can run one on both prep and loading heads.
Why not just do it once, on the 1100?
I've loaded a few thousand .223's with my 1100 and have not had any primer issues to speak of, FWIW.
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This helps a bit also, especially for when the primer tube is nearing empty:
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On 10/28/2023 at 2:50 AM, Kiwishoot said:
What's the going price these days for 10k of Federal SPP anyway ?
Ammoseek.com is your friend.
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4 hours ago, Zachjet said:
Yes, which means I’ll be learning how to load rifle ammo now..
It's a bit of a journey, but worth it.
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Yep, the stop primer is a good thing! Not sure how easy they are to find for the 650 these days though. The UFO light is a must add too, IMO.
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I have an Armanov toolhead. I use it to deprime and size my .223/5.56. Works great for that, but I don't have any kind of autodrive on it.
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On 10/14/2023 at 12:41 PM, Sigarmsp226 said:
I wish (to late now) I had bought a BL550 when I first looked at this reloader. That was several years back when they were $249.99. My thought was to hand prime my brass and then use the BL550 to drop my powder charge (manually - which I like) and then seat and if necessary taper crimp the case - allowing me to manually move the process myself.
Just bought a RL550C for my 6.5CM. I was tempted to go with the BL, and should have in hindsight. I knew I was going to drop the powder using a funnel in station 2, so don't need another powder measure. I have several of them already for my 650 and 1100. But I thought the auto primer would be worth it. For the extra money, I still feel like those extras justified it. But it's not doing a great job of seating primers (CCI BR's) in my very clean or new 6.5CM brass, so I went back to hand priming them anyway.
The main reason I went to the 550 is the much more consistent OAL, which it has done a great job of. I don't want to go to a single stage, so this is a nice compromise.
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Cool gun. The lack of a decocker does worry me a bit, but I'll likely end up with one anyway. My range gun is an S2 Orange, so it would a good fit as a CC gun.
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You need to get products like these. Maybe not this particular one. Several folks make them. But these help smooth things out.
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1 minute ago, Lock-n-load said:
Cz custom sounds like my best option. Can you just send them the slide or do you have to go through someone with a FFL ?
You can just send the slide.
The factory OR slide is wider at the optic cut also. Makes it a little easier to rack the slide, apparently. I had CGW mill an S2 slide for an SRO. I'm happy with the work and how low the optic is mounted.
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16 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
On a 1050/1100 it is not possible to my knowledge to process and load brass in one pass unless the brass has been trimmed and sized already. You could load in one pass if the brass is already sized to which it most likely has already been decapped.
Shoulder bump and overall case length are very important to get correct to load reliable ammo.
Typical process on a Dillon 1050/110 is as follows.
1. Clean brass with pins.
2. Lube brass (I use Alcohol/Lanolin mixture similar to Dillon's mix).
3. Decap, Trim and size brass or decap, size and trim brass. There is some debate oh to size before trimming or vise versa. I think some use the Trim die to size the brass and trim the brass. I use a separate sizing die after trimming to make sure I have proper neck tension. If you size after trim, it is imperative that the trim die is not set too high, because you could in theory increase the length of the brass when it passes through the dedicated sizing die. I have not had this issue but I guess its possible.
I also use a separate Tool head which I only have to adjust case trimmer and the rest of the dies essentially remain the same. I will check case sizing before I start mass processing to make sure the brass will be in specification.
4. Clean brass again without pins. This does two things. Removes burrs from the brass that was trimmed and removes the lube from all of the brass.
5. Load ammo. I leave the swage rod in place for loading because it does not hurt anything and also ensures primer pockets will accept primer. Brass is primed, Powder drop, Bullet drop via Bullet Feeder, seating die, crimp die. I have yet to find a good way to keep bullets in place without the expander/hold down die yet so I have to crimp when using a progressive press with a bullet feeder. Maybe other have a secret but this method works for me.
This makes good ammo, but I intend to move the swage station hold down/expander die which is currently on the loading tool head to the processing tool head. I have found I am getting brass shavings when the brass passes through that station. Once I do this I should not have any brass shavings during the loading process.
Others may do it different, but I have found this to be the most efficient for me and makes very reliable .223 ammo.
The 650/750 is similar but a little more involved because you have to use a special tool attached to one of the stations to swage the .2323 bass once it is decapped. My buddy who uses a 650 explained the process and I was like no thanks. The reason I purchased the 1050 was I knew I would be loading .223 at some time and point, and I am glad I did. The only con is the price of the 1050/1100 tool heads.
I don't like to clean twice, so for step 1, I'd put "Anneal brass" instead of clean with pins. And I'd add pins in step 4, since I only clean once. I anneal first as that can impact sizing and length of the case.
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19 hours ago, Postal Bob said:
Lately there's been a lot of foreign made primers making it to the market, Wolf, Ginex, Servicious, etc. And not only are they available, they've been selling for less than the American made primers. So what gives? Since when does a foreign product cost less than an American product? And what happened to made in America, buy American? Why are the American manufacturers letting the foreigners gain control? Something is very wrong here.
I've seen deals in the last few days on Argentinian SPP's delivered for $60 per K. Hoping deals like that will bring the prices of the domestic primers down soon.
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I went from a 650 to an 1100 specifically to get a swagging station for my 9mm's reloads. I was getting a lot of crimped brass pickup and sorting them was tedious. No worries anymore.
Here's a tool head with the potential for a die in the priming station. Has a build in LED light too:
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On 12/21/2022 at 11:38 AM, HOGRIDER said:
If you after a tight-fitting S2, look at the S2 Orange or the S2 AccuShadow!
Agreed. My S2 Orange is very tight.
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Dot40 carries a lot of the Eemann Tech stuff. I've bought from them, seem like good folks.
https://dot40prod.wpengine.com/product-category/eemann-tech/
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3 hours ago, Orlandoech said:
I have had an 1100 for 9 months now, replacing my 750. Overall I like it much better, but there is still some room for improvement for sure, mainly the shell plate and powder drop precision imo. Otherwise, I like it. I do need to clean mine though.
I like my RL1100 too, but this thread is about the RL1000 press.
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On 8/3/2022 at 4:45 PM, Street Survival said:
RL1100 for all my Sergeants. Thanks, Gentlemen. Anyone know Dillons current turn around time?
Contact Gunstop up in MN. They often have them in stock.
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Thanks for letting us know, Jubi. I was considering getting one, but think I'll stick with Dillon toolheads. I had not thought of the possible up and down movement.
RL 1100 indexing question
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
I moved from a 650 to an 1100. I converted them both to low mass balls. Both would still spill a little powder if you're cranking on them with cases that are pretty full. I certainly do not think the 1100 is worse.
You will like the upgrade. I upgraded mostly to get the swagger and extra stations. But the better priming is for sure another plus.