Bmeehan19

From what I understand, Ammo Mike designed it and Karl has permission to sell it. I think Karl made some minor changes, but not positive. Also the one I saw from Karl didn’t use the MBF motor. But that could have been by request.

I have a 3D printer. Give me a little time and I’ll see what I can come up with. This is a great idea.

I just setup a new to my RL 1050 and through my searching I found something that said 4-6 thousandths for primer depth. Can you measure the factory round and then measure yours? Its a super easy adjustment to make.

From what I understand, which is little, The MBF bullet feed die uses the weight of the bullets in the column to sort of seat the bullet in the case. The Hornady one is just the weight of the one single bullet. Ive used both and no matter what I tried the Hornady one was inconsistent. I tried making the collet bigger, smaller, more force, less for, nothing worked 100%. The MBF die is perfect.

The left is the hornady. The right is the MBF

I use the Hornady New Dimension Dies. The sizing deprimer works good, it sizes down well but the decapping pin can sometimes be off center so when you set it up be sure that its in the middle. Ive never had it scrape brass. It actually makes it shinier once its sized. DAA bullet feed die is the best Ive found if you are using a bulllet feeder. I was using the Hornady PTX and hd to polish it to a mirror to eliminate 80% of the sticking. I have to apply one shot to the PTX every 2-3 hundred rounds to keep it smooth. I just spray some on a q-tip and apply it that way and let it dry. I just ordere the DAA PTX so we will see how that goes. The seat and crimp die works good too. Just have to follow the setup directions. I measure my completed rounds of the ogive as bullet lengths vary quite a bit to get a more accurate COL measurement so a micrometer seating isnt necessary for me.

Thank you. Ill give that a try.

All shot out of a Canik TP9SFX. Worth noting the .356 were far more accurate than the .355. The gun seemed pretty dirty after 350 rds. Also really noticeable smoke. The brass had a good smoke streak down the side on about 1/4 of the exterior sidewall.

Heres mine in 40.

SPS Pantera is under 2k. Maybe like $1800 with one mag. Mine runs great.

Anyone have a code for optics planet? Hoping for a 20% but anything will help. Thanks in advance Bryan

Any update on this?

Did you have to file the block at all? With my Pantera the engaging portion fits the guard perfectly. But the top of the block ( the beveled tips) hit the grip and the radius on the outside top of the trigger guard hits the bottom of the slot in the block. It wont go all the way in and the safety cant engage.

Ive never looked at MBF until now, yeah its very close. I dont know much about copyright laws, but Im guessing if its not for sale maybe its technically not infringenent? Actually its only a 3d drawing of it. You have to make it yourself.

Heres a vid of it processing some 180 gn FP 40 S&W

Original feeder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314 Upgraded feeder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921 Case feeder https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/74r7is/the_shoebox_case_feeder_a_fully_functional_3d/#ampf=undefined

I 3d printed my own feeder from a design on Thingiverse. It works perfectly. The design I chose does use the MBF motor but there are other variations that use different motors. There is also a small 3d printed case feeder on there aswell. Works great too, just a small holding capacity.

Thanks man! Thing shoots like a dream!!

Sps Pantera

Welcome fellow CT’er!

Oops. See above post.

Assemble a round and pull the bullet after you seat and crimp. If there is a ring around the projectile its to much. If there isnt one run it through again with a little more crimp until you get the ring then back a bit at a time off until no ring exists, must use a new projectile. That is your crimp setting. A good place to start is to measure your projectile and the casings wall at the mouth. Double the case wall measurement and add it to the bullet diameter you are loading. That should be your final crimp OD measurement. The final test after you have figured out your crimp is to push the finished round, projectile down, against the bench pretty hard. Measure OAL again to see if it has any set back. If none than you should be good to go.

No. Just had them polish it instead of coating it.

It took about an hour of slow going to be sure I didnt take to much. I used a cutoff wheel with the dremel and just followed the line around the molded magwell where it transitions from the bevel to vertical. Then I used a sanding drum on the dremel to get it to the correct depth from the retaining pin the cutoff wheel was just used to get the bulk of the material off.

Here it is after the grip reduction, double undercut and fine point stipple.