Josh Biondi
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Posts posted by Josh Biondi
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9 hours ago, SwissPewPew said:
My problem was that the primer disk was not turning enough to bring the primer to the correct position. It worked with 1000rds/h that the guide rod made the last few degrees. But with 1500 rds/h the guide rod crashed into the primer disk (I already have the updated disk).
Solution: The inner spring (green arrow) on the compliance rod seems to be out of a cheap pen. So I was searching for another one with similar dimensions but a higer compression force. Found this one with approx 26N total compression force or 2N/mm. Left is the new one, on the right the original one. I think 26N is a good value. Enough to drive the disk without loosing the failsafe function....
Runs like a charme now
Sorry for the metric system guys
SwissPewPew can you share the link where you bought this spring?
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17 hours ago, erwos said:
I agree that a minute or two with a dremel will resolve these problems pretty neatly. The press will also probably wear in on its own over time, but I do think it's somewhat absurd that Mark7 didn't catch this problem on their own... it's present on the Evo as well.
How not to agree with you? Unfortunately, the dilemma after spending a lot of money is to stay complaining without solving the problem or to act and make the press work well without jams (which would always piss you off a lot)? I chose the latter.
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Your trouble is in the arm that touch the press body and don't return in its original position, so the disk dont rotate. Look at the pics i cut a bit material on the body press just as need to get the arm move freely. Its the best solution. After this, that you may not like it but it is extremely functional and will solve the problem for you. The primer feeders will work like a Swiss watch made the necessary adjustments.
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I use LEE Udies for both decapping and primer primer. I reload in .40 and with the Apex10 I had no problems with excessive resistance in the movement.
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On 8/23/2021 at 6:27 PM, pealandco said:
Thanks for the feedback from everyone. I ended up going the Mark 7 route. DAA had them in stock at the end of last week, and I pulled the trigger. Placed the order on Wednesday and received it Saturday. Went Apex 10 for a number of reasons:
- Recent price increases from Dillon - by the time you factor in the upgrades for the 1100 like a CNC toolhead and some other parts, you're approaching Apex 10 territory.
- Separate stations for expansion and swaging on the Apex 10 - as I'll describe below this is my 1st time setting up swaging and hold down on a press (coming from an XL750). Would be a lot more difficult to deal with expansion and swaging on the same station with an 1100/1050.
- 9 real stations on the Apex 10 vs 6 on the 1100 (or 7 with the CNC toolhead) - if I want to put a bullet feeder and a powder check on the Apex 10 down the road, no problem. On the RL1100 I would have to give up a powder check or move seating and crimping to the same station.
My only concern going with the Apex 10 was support and ease of setup compared to Dillon. I'll say the press came 99% tuned from the factory. Had it setup in a few hours and took another day of playing around, setting up dies, and fine tuning. @SSGJohnV and others on the FB Mark7 reloading group have been very helpful, as well as the videos that Mark7 has on YouTube. The only things that I've had to adjust were swaging (which comes completely turned off) and primer depth. I had a couple of crushed primers, but it was tied to me adjusting the swaging more aggressively or me seating too deep. I did have some binding on the primer disk, but that quickly cleared up after cycling the press a few times. The case feeder also feels a lot more solid than the Dillon.
The only things that I've come across on the Mark7 that I'm not a fan of:
- The powder measure is a lot more complicated that the Dillon in good and bad ways. It is very smooth, but you really have to lock down the nut otherwise you will get drifts in your drops after 10-20 rounds. Adjustability is not as quick as the Dillon because of this. The baffle design also feels cheap. Basically, just a piece of metal that floats. Anytime you dump the measure you have to reset the baffle. It is also not as intuitive as the Dillon to setup, but that's me being new to the platform.
- Another place to hang a bin would be nice for bullets.
Correct analysis that I fully agree with. The Apex10 is an excellent press you have to 'understand' it well, but once set up it works like a Swiss watch. I also share the critical points highlighted by the powder measure. It costs a lot of money but it's not that functional. Personally I was considering getting the Hornady one which has the same drum system but they tell me it works better.
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19 hours ago, zzt said:
I don't understand this. If the hood is .008" short and the sides have clearance, the hood never touches the slide. How could it beat it?
With a too short hood the slide slam the barrel on the back of the hood (because the barrel moves ahead with a not correct closure). This is because the recoil spring pull ahead the slide. Plus there are other trouble because all the force push on the barrel and the barrel lugs apex works critacally, and the link barrel works under force due to the thrust foward of the slide on the barrel hood.
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5 minutes ago, yigal said:
i saw few new STI dvc with 1.307 dim . they after 40k now . no problems with guns . only with owners minds
you mean barrel with hood of 1.307?
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Usually the STI side has a hood space of 1.315 as showend in the picture. The ideal fit is to get a barrel hood sligtly short that works tight.
But...but if you have a barrel with hood length of 1.311 due to the use or because you cut too much material whats your opinion...is it too short and in that way its necessary to welder little material on the back of the hood to recover the right measure or this could be considerate as a tollerance?
Anyway whats are the trouble that a gun can get from similar fit?Your opinion will be appreciate. Thanks ahead!!
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On 9/15/2019 at 1:00 PM, jimbullet said:
less than 5k rounds, should I be worried about this?
Any suggestions if this is repairable as dont think warranty claim is an option when I am outside of the US.
If you dont get answer from STI you could be weldering the crack with laser welder. It will works in this zone. However go to a gunsmith and make check the gun its seems like the hold open works badly.
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17 hours ago, yigal said:
slide cuts with small radius weakened the slide in this critical area especially in 40 cal.
sti edge original serrations in this area make slide weaker in this critical place. in new sti models they made this critical place stronger.
as i asked in this forum about 1911 in cal 40 service life the answer was around 50k and more is normal.
properly used buffer can prolong slide life .
Your opinion seems to me really right! Im on the same thoughtline
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6 hours ago, zzt said:
Josh, although I broke the advice I'm going to give you on my first 1911 45 ACP build, I'll recommend no through cuts on the slide. Take metal off where it doesn't count and leave it full (or very close to full) where is does. I have three slides done as shown below. The oldest, on a 40sw 2011 has seen a boatload of rounds with absolutely no issues. Not sayin' it won't ever crack, but I doubt it. The one shown below is on my latest 9mm Open gun. It already has 7,000 through it and I expect it to last for 100,000. Same with the slide on my 1911 Open . Obviously you cannot lighten as much on a Limited gun, but you get the idea.steel gun.
Thank you for the advice. I agree with you way!
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15 minutes ago, 427Cobra said:
Alpha Mike No Shoot(WTF).
Congrats on shooting two pistols to failure, most of us will never do that, have you contacted STI on warranty replacement?
In fact, in twenty years I've shot I broken 4 frames and 3 slides ... I don't think the STI warranty service could be affected because the slides have been punctured
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46 minutes ago, jpl said:
Stress risers at the corner of the cuts. Cuts not properly de-burred and sharp edges softened.
Cut are rounded no apex corner...Im thinking that on the slide its necessary have absolutely NO HOLE and especially NO HOLE in that stress part.......
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4 hours ago, mlmiller1 said:
Any chance that you only noticed the 2nd 1 cracked this weekend & maybe it happened some other time & just now noticed after 1st one cracked?
No way. I check my gun after every training session or after every match.....
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5 hours ago, muncie21 said:
Maybe the 2nd slide couldn't live without the 1st and committed slide-a-cide.
Seriously though, even with a similar round count, it does seem unlikely that both would fail within days of each other...
slide suicede ?
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5 hours ago, TRPOperator said:
Based on the info you provided my question would be how many rounds on the DPM recoil reducer vs the Wolff sprig setup, if that changed the weight or how fast/hard the slide cycled that might be a contributor. If they both lasted for all those round until the change that is at least something to look at.
On the first gun (43000rounds) with DPM shoots around 4000rounds; the second gun (63000rounds) with DPM shoots 15000rounds
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3 minutes ago, MJinPA said:
That’s all I got. I’m not a machinist or trained gunsmith so definitely interested to see what one thinks about the cracks
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThis is why I asked it to the big B_Enos forum community!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I need help............
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4 minutes ago, MJinPA said:
Both cracked back to back?!? Any chance something changed with your load? I would think you’d know if it was a double charge but if they cracked back to back that’s definitely my initial thought.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNo! obsolutely not changed in my charge. All the data are confirmed and no way for double charge.........
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Well...dont know where to start... both the guns are STI Edge 40S&W, ammo used are 170grs fmj bullets or 170grs colored copper, powder VV N320 or Nobel GM3 5.5grs for the FMJ and 5.1grs for colored copper, power factor major 174, DPM recoilreducer system with middle ring and middle/long spring (previously I used 13 lbs Wolff recoil spring and sprinco giude rod but its no matter now).
Got cracked bot the slides in the same point last saturday and the day after sunday during a match. The guns has one 43000 rounds and the second 63000.
What do you think guys? Any suggestion will be appreciate! thanks ahead
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Weakest part of the frame.
It's not abnormal for STI frames to crack there. Actually it's quite normal.
One of my limited guns cracked there last year. My wife's primary Open gun is cracked there currently.
She is still shooting the gun. You'll notice the crack probably stops where the frame gets a little thicker. Im keeping an eye on hers, and until it spreads into the thicker area.... It's probably ok.
well im going to weldering the crack with a laser welder
If you have any luck with this.... Please let me know
Welding with laser done! Great job!!!!!!!!!!
the break depends from the slide stop that hammering the frame.
In the pics you can see the result before the bluing....https://www.dropbox.com/sh/08mbzw5t5wffuq8/AABU8-zMIPPXDTGLCHSmMpRha?dl=0
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Damn wonder if a CK arms frame will do the same? If mine goes I'll be pissed it's only 8mths old will shoot it and see how I go. How many rounds is it taking before a crack appears?
10.359 rounds ............
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Aren't you an STI sponsored shooter?
Some years ago when i was involved in competition...and i change one Edge every year so i dont notice this kind of crack.
but now using the same gun for more time i discovered this sort of trouble that make me really disappointed because the gun that i loved more than the others was the STI guns and in particular the Edge! it was my friend for long time
But I hate when you have a goldmine in your hands and you waste all.... do you know how many time i told to STI to thicken that frame part without know what can happen due to the thinness of the frame in that point? Well now im discovering it by myself
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If anyone is interested in hearing my side of the warranty issues, pm me.
This isn't the place to rant about issues with manufacturers.
I think that we have some ideas in common about this.... :roflol:and you lives in the USA.... just think how many trouble more than you I'll should bear if i wanna replace the frame............
:angry2:However I agree with your position no talking about issues with manufacturers.... the post is only to know and excange eachother the best way to solve this crack and above all WHY IT HAPPEN!!!!!!!!!!!
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APEX 10 Primer Assembly Issues
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted
thank you for sharing info!