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MattInTheHat

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    Matt Griffin

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  1. Note that of course I cheat a bit, I have skate tape wrapped around the bottom of my trigger guard and my sight bar is checkered. It can get . . . pretty fast.
  2. Running at a short target is about how your platform is working, not about the sights. Running a trigger at full speed is the sights returning before you complete the next double action stroke, you're waiting on yourself, but you also don't have time to correct anything because your finger is at full speed. When I practiced at that distance I could usually dig a golf ball sized hole at seven yards, which was the bounce and chaos of my finger coupled with how good my platform had been trained at the time. Put the sight on the target and let loose, if the sight isn't bouncing back into the same spot you have to work on the whole body platform rather than sights or trigger work. If you throw five good and one bad, then trigger work. Essentially you have an expectation of results at different ranges. Without practice that expectation widens as you go farther, as is only logical. With practice it narrows. But this is only when you are running your hands at their maximum speed, because you've decided that you don't have time to refine anything between shots. Perfectly valid in the game and there are plenty of opportunities where you can go max speed. The big point: with practice your max speed doesn't become faster, it just becomes relevant at longer distances.
  3. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Here's the big one: you have one unit of body awareness and one unit of visual awareness. You have to spend them correctly. For body awareness, for my reload as a lefty, I have to cross my thumb over the grip, actuate the release, chsng my right hand grip to grasping the whole revolver between my pinky and thumb, actuate the ejection rod while tilting the gun downward to help the empty clip fall, reorient the gun to be ready for the reload, grasp the new clip decisively in my left hand, insert the clip, close the cylinder with my right hand, get my strong left hand back on the gun, and get my weak right hand back on the grip, then back into the platform and shoot. In the middle of that I usually have my visual awareness flip down for a fraction to watch the clip go in. Before and after I'm spotting my next position, then finding my entry foot position, then up to the window/target as I enter and the gun comes up. So here's the gravy: I practiced enough that I can't really open a revolver cylinder without my hands doing the grip change/rod/tilt/strong hand off the gun. I just do that, whether in a match or shooting slow fire off a bag, it's built in. Attention cost is zero. Next zero cost is my strong hand going to my belt and back up with a clip, the body just does that. Last zero cost is closing the cylinder while reestablishing the grip and coming back into platform. No brain required. So, when I take off from a position this is where I spend my brain: 1. Burst outward (automatic ejection sequence) 2. On the move. Body awareness lets me feel my fingers on the clip and correct a wrong grip. (Ejection process is in motion) 3. Look the clip into the cylinder and also feel it into the cylinder. At this point I'm running or stopping automatically 4. Eyes up, spot your entry foot point, then up more to predict the target location as you clear the window (automatic closing of cylinder and reestablishment of grip.) 5. Enter the position on autopilot, prep trigger, SIGHTS SIGHTS FINGER SIGHTS break. That's what it's like when it works right.
  4. No need to be contentious, but in a few million clicks I've never found a position that stalls a Smith revolver. I can't speak to other brands, the behavior you're talking about, in my experience, is a slightly open cylinder.
  5. Helps a bunch bud, I really appreciate the time and knowledge that went into that. The first question I have is that .009 used to be my minimum on .45, are you getting a good visible anvil bulge in your primers at that depth? I found that below .007 failed just as past .015 did, assumption being that one didn't let the pin accelerate enough and the other was depth challenged. Like I mentioned I'm looking for about 1 in a 1000 failures so I'd like to dial it in pretty well.
  6. I've always run bobbed primers but I don't know what the factory pin length is. I tried an extended pin on the .45 and had immediate failures so backed off. A SPP might be a different thing since there's theoretically a smaller diameter of similar metal to deform, this my question. Maybe an extended pin works better for the smaller primer?
  7. Just a 650, but then mic'inc out a batch to test with, back in the day I could get a pretty consistent .01 to .014 depth by feel but those were Federal LPPs and I was probably shooting a pound heavier than most, usually clocked at 6.5 by a cheap pull scale. That said, they were 1/1000 reliable. Best case is always lightest possible pull through with strongest possible reset, and the 627 I shoot right now is not my own trigger job, it's very thin at the top so not much mass at the end of the lever.
  8. Exactly, it's human to constantly go too fast and screw up, but you have to see that you did it.
  9. Also take your own rope to extend the plate rack reset, I usually played at 25 yards but the rope was only 15. If you can recover from a reload and quickly make a 25 yard shot, then you know your mechanics are working.
  10. I had my first range session in about 3 years, and have barely been out since 2014 or so due to lots of joint and muscle problems. I recognize that 8 shot is the only viable option so I'm trying to tune everything so that it works like my good old .45s. The two big issues I'm running into are lots of clicks and empty moonclips jamming up against the frame, grip, or ejector on reloads. I cooked up a batch of light, medium, and heavy primer stroke ammo but haven't found a recipe yet, trying from .01 to .015 depth in the pocket. I've shaved back the left side of the grip to give as much clearance as possible but I still get clips tangling on the ejector. That last part is probably something I can work through with mixtures of shaving, gun position, and different clip tensions, but I'm always open to suggestions. More to the point, does anyone have a sweet spot for primer depth on a 627 with Starline short Colt brass and Federal SPP?
  11. Offhand, one very easy mistake to make is to look over your sights to either find the target or try and confirm a hole, and it happens in such a way that your brain doesn't notice that your attention moved off the sights at the last hundredth. Do a shot calling drill where you absolutely confirm that your visual focus never left the front sight, you called your shot, and your call was within a couple of inches at 15 yards. If you're getting surprised by results then the first problem is you didn't actually see your sights as the trigger broke.
  12. Good on ya. Just close it firmly, cylinder position doesn't matter.
  13. Every 3 or 4 stages, back in the day. That little but of friction on the reload can cause a lot of seconds to add up.
  14. Best bang for buck/time I ever came up with was a long plate rack and reloading between every shot. The shakiness of grip, body, and trigger after a reload is a big deal.
  15. I've posted this before, but no, major 6 isn't competitive with minor 8 ultimately. 2012 Nationals I had a stage I shot as well as I could shoot, and not to buff my nails on my shirt but at the time I was good enough to know that while any performance is beatable it would take an exceptional effort on that stage to be in my same ballpark. I was the only 6 shooter on the super squad, and came in 7th on that stage or something awful like that.
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