Bwenning

Thanks for the info, will have to decide if I want to drop more money on it for thr sear and hammer make my life easier or fit the R5 interrupter.

Camilo, just had the same issue as you today, added r5 interrupter and worked both in double and single action until I install slide, then get same issue you had. Was it the addition of the one piece sear that fixed the issue or was it the modification of the interrupter? I have the two piece sear and was not planning to upgrade it.

I noticed a local shooter recently that had black brass grips and asked him how he did it, he said he used birchwood casey aluminum black. I'm not sure how long ago he did it, I could see some brass color where it wore off a little on the high spots. I thought it looked good, worse case you could bead blast back to original.

I've got a set from a stock 3 that I would sell, I believe they are the same. PM if interested.

I've got 3 RTS2 dots and all will last a season, could be your dot. It could also be your batteries as well, I once ordered a 10 pack from a large mail order retailer and all were defective, none had the correct voltage when they were new. I believe they were counterfeit. Now I only buy single batteries or two packs from big box hardware stores and have had good luck.

There could be multiple things going on with this, if you don't know how a 1911 safety is supposed to function I would bring it to someone who does. It could be a very simple and inexpensive fix but needs to be diagnosed by someone familiar with the platform.

Precision bullets (out of Kemp, TX) and sport pistol are my go to.

Thanks for posting, just picked up an 8# jug. should have enough now for the upcoming season.

I think he only focuses on paying gigs now

Sorry, forgot to mention the barrel type, it is a KKM. I'd like to buy another one to put an open top end on my limited gun, but can't find one. I was really impressed with the quality of the KKM barrel and don't want to stray from them for my next build.

I made the inside corners at the back of the island .125" radius, all the clearance on the undersides will have to be done by hand. See ref pic for corner location. .003"clearance on sides and .005" at the back.

Still showing in stock for me.

Brownells has spp right now, 2000 ct comes with $75 gift card.

I prefer coated over plated, for me the pated bullets were less accurate and more expensive.

I'd either buy the cutter or have some do it who owns one. Brazos or Harvey tool sells them. www.harveytool.com

I had the exact same issue with them and the Dillon seating die. Between that and the fact that they didn't play well with the mr. bullet feeder, I wound up selling them. I'm sure I could have figured out how to make them run in the bullet feeder and bought a new seating die but is wasn't worth it with other bullet options available. Even with the blemish they did feed and shoot fine.

I second the drilling method, by far the easiest and least likely to damage anything else. The head of the screw will start to spin with the drill bit once you've went far enough.

Not sure how that would work since the barrel needs to link up and down (have movement) and the comp would be fixed to the frame? I think any comp will have to fixed to the barrel.

Sorry, should have included type. They have CCI large and small pistol.

Brownells has them in stock right now, max 2000.

It's a Caspian slide, I did use cue's from both Carne and Rafferty when building this gun since they build some of the best looking guns out there. I am a fan of the panel cuts and they are relatively easy to make.

In the white before coating, you can see the grip a little better.

Other side

Here are pics of one I finished this spring, I also own a gun with a PT grip and the cheely aggressive is more aggressive than the PT.

Anodizing would make the surface rougher, you can expect the surface finish to be 2-3 rougher after anodize than before. E.g. if you were able to polish to an 8Ra finish after anodize it would wind up being 16-24Ra.