xtian999

I have an old Browning atd that I assume is the model for the pc9 and it locks up tight. The rear sights are on the receiver and the front sights are on the bbl and the accuracy depends on the integrity of the takedown connection. I think tighter is better.

Hearing the reloading plate button rattling down the vacuum hose and realizing how long it has been since I emptied the vac. Gross.

Best link ever! Thank you! Should be in the Dillon manual.

I found a nifty solution: S&W M&P 15-22. $299.00 from CDNN. No more tears.

How did the match go?

I agree. Seems like the shooting community is about as friendly as it gets.

I did that and I can just pull the lever and the barrel twists off. Seems like it should be more secure.

Flat. I talked to CMC but they do not have a factory solution. I saw the Calvin, but a shoe for the CMC would be cheaper.

Ok, thank all you guys for the help. I did the 22 brass bushing thing but left the rims off b/c I did not know about clearances. Also ran a small 1/2 round file over the lips a few strokes to knock down any burrs and facilitate a better nose-up attitude to the round. Did not know about the duct tape trick, but I had noticed the slopply fit of the 25’s and wondered about it. In fact, I get somewhat better reliability when I hold the mag with my forehand and keep it tight, but that is not my preferred grip. I have tons of 10 rounders and most are doubled up w/a coupler. They work great. I also have a Ruger PC9 and can shoot 32 rd. mags all day, but I want to fix the BX-25 for long strings on the days I shoot .22 at a match. So I will shim up the mags w/some aluminum a/c tape and see what happens.

I bought a Ruger 10/22 type carbine to shoot local steel matches. I say “type” because it is a Brownell’s 10/22 pistol receiver with a Ruger SR-22/Nordic system. I bought it so that I could use the new Ruger BX-25 rd. mags and finish a round w/o a mag change. So far, the BX-25 mags have been a letdown. They jam frequently and are basically useless. The 10 rd factory mags work flawlessly with any ammo, so I assume that the problem is with the 25 rounders, not the gun or the ammo. Anyone here have the same problems with the new BX-25’s?

All parts and labor came from Hayes Custom Guns. I have xxl hands and the trigger is almost long enough. If I could, I would add another 1/2 inch and move the trigger guard further forward.

I find it difficult to get the takedown nut cranked down tight w/o marring the knurling or taking the fore end off. Would be nice to see a slotted nut with a wrench like the AR system.

Lapping is done for a better fit/less movement between receiver and barrel, I assume. Makes sense if the optics are attached to one and the bullet exits the other. Would silver solder work even better?

I wish I had purchased a larger caliber can to begin with b/c I use my .30 caliber for 300 blk, .308, 30-06, 5.56mm. and 22lr all the time and could have added quite a few others like 338, .357, 9mm, 40 cal, 45 acp, 458 SOCOM, etc with a bigger one.

I have the smoothie on a 300blk pistol and it works great w/ brass catcher.

I am fixated on triggers right now. My CMC trigger is great, but the reach is too short. Anyone making an aftermarket trigger shoe? Thanks.

About an hour drive, but like I said, I got a loaner and still had fun.

Perfect. Like the Timney Calvin. I saw one that looked like the shoe was on a rail and I wondered who else has that feature.

What is the correct term to call the distance between the point where the index finger touches the trigger to the backstrap where the ctotch of the palm sits? I have seen a few triggers that are adjustable for this length and a few grips that are also variable. I have large hand and very long fingers and this measurement is critical, but I don’t know what to call it. Thanks

Those Hayes brothers rock. Lots of good gunsmiths out there, but being able to stand in the shop, talk face to face, see the work, drop off, pick up, and pay in person are major reasons for going local. Check out your local gunsmiths and if you are lucky, you will have someone almost as good as mine.

Another thing, as long as we are on the topic: A grinding, crunching of metal can be felt and heard when cycling the handle. The S-shaped portion of the failsafe rod pulls the plates together on the edgy sides of the stampings, not the smoother, rounded sides. The result is like a scissor action that is not only a bit annoying, it also masks other potential interfereances like an off-indexed primer seating punch (already crunched one) or a mis-aligned shells or bullets in the setting die (crunched af few). If the plates met on the smooth sides or had a teflon washer between them or were polished flat on the inside, they would be less balky. Anything to make the cycle smoother would make the process safer, right?

Some times, the old ways are the best.

I was recently informed that the powder mechanism used to have a return spring. Perhaps the belt and suspenders approach of a spring and a rod would be fail-safer?

Is it irony when a failsafe fails unsafely?

Scale is electric.