Bullett
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Posts posted by Bullett
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31 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
Primers may not be fully seated.
Or, perhaps the brass wasn't dry after the "wash" cycle, or after spraying lubricant
on the cases.
Are the primers lighting up and the powder not firing ? Or, are the primers dented
but not fired ?
I agree with this post. Check to see if the powder is clumpy when you pull the rounds.
Ive has failure to fire on a few cases due to the primer not being fully seated. When the firing pin contacted the primer it would fully seat the primer. Check to see if your primers are fully seated.
On the last tumble before you load is that wet tumbling or tumbling in dry media? Media may be clogging the flash hole of your cases as well
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Yes you can, depending on the recycling facility. I normally recycle mine and spend the money on additional components
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Only on my 2nd match and I got 8. My right foot was out of the free fire area when I engaged 4 targets. The RO determined it didn’t give me an advantage over other shooters and only gave me 1 procedural thankfully
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When I started developing loads for my semi auto rifle I did. I stopped doing it after I found a load that worked for my gun.
I want one of those shockbottle cause gauges
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The things you learn about on the forum. I've never heard of this company before. I've been using my single Lyman case gauge on each round I load for a few years now. I'm going to buy one of the blemished gauges once they pop up. Unfortunately they're sold out of those on their site at this time
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6 hours ago, Dr. Phil said:
Not yet. Maybe check into it though. Are you planning on that one this year?
This will be the 1st Empire State Steel shoot for us too.
There is also a falling steel shoot at the end of April called the PSA Shootout. Check that one out also.
Hope to see you at a shoot sometime soon!
Glad to have more shooting friends to the north...
I'm going to look into shooting that one, but I'm not entirely sure if I'll be in the country on that date. Hopefully it'll work out.
I'll definitely keep my eye open for the PSA shoot out. I enjoy shooting steel.
If you shoot at the Watervliet club let me know
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16 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
Watervliet is excellent. Nice guys and great COF's
BUT, if you wander out of state, you can actually shoot 12 bullets in a row
without reloading
Don't forget CT, also.
I shot my first match there last month. I had a great time. Being limited to 11 rounds is a bummer...
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16 hours ago, Dr. Phil said:
Check out the Empire State Steel Shoot coming up on the 12th! Still lots of spots open if you have a free day or so... It's out around Elmira.
Hope to see you there...
Won't be able to do that one. I checked the website out though and saw the Hot Steel Challenge they offer in July. You shoot that one before?
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Check out the Mighty Armory decapping die. I don't have a redding die to compare it to, but I did use a lee decapping die for a while. The MA die is hands down better and the pins are significantly stronger. I've snapped plenty of pins with my Lee, I have yet to snap a pin in the MA that wasn't error induced.
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I live on the outskirts of Albany. So far I've only competed at Watervliet. Hoping my work schedule will work in my favor and allow me to travel to PA, MA and NH to shoot in the near future.
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I shot a friends STI and I was hooked. I couldn't get the 2011 platform off my mind and shortly after I bought a CK
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You'll need a few things. Like you said you'll need the plate for the feeder itself. You'll need to add the pivot adapter and bushing. By adding this adapter you'll also need to adjust the feed tube end so it has enough clearance for the assembly to pivot.
The vblock you're using for 9mm should be ok to use for .223
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On 5/1/2018 at 4:00 PM, SilverBolt said:
If he is using the stainless pins as media and tumbles for extended lengths of time it is possible to wear the nickel plating off or at least some of it off. This gives it a brushed/dull appearance.
I've tumbled thousands of nickle plated brass and have never wore off the nickle plating. I have, however, worn off the coating that browning uses on their black casings, which makes the casing look like a black/silver hybrid case. This happened to every one of those casings I tumbled in their very first tumbling.
On 5/1/2018 at 4:28 PM, muncie21 said:Too much lemishine will definitely cause the cases to be dull (either nickel plated or brass ones) and in my experience they tend to be stickier.
Too much lemishine will also give the brass a pinkish hue. Ask me how I know....
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So i ended up taking the main spring housing off and loosened the bolts holding the grip on. I set the magwell on my table and pushed down on the frame and then tightened those bolts. The gap between the frame and grip is much smaller now and the safety actually stays put in the back of the gun. I can still get it to pop out, but it's much harder to do so now.
I reached out to STI about the grip being defective and they are saying this isn't the original MSH that came with the STI textured frame. I'm going to order a new MSH, which will hopefully clear up this problem.
Thanks for everyone's input, it was a fun learning experience!
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21 hours ago, NoSteel said:
What is your location?? I am sure that someone at your local club could take a quick look and guide you thru the best way to correct it. It looks like the stock MSH is in place and not fit correctly. Really,. An easy fix for someone who has experience with 2011's... My guess,. A new MSH and your in business.
Here are a couple pics of what a new MSH looks like in that area..
Oh,. And welcome to the forum!!!
Good to know thank you. I’m just outside of Albany NY
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Thanks I’ll check these things tonight when I get home from work
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The gun still functions besides the grip safety. I’m just mad that I dropped a bunch of cash and the assembly pops out
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If I hold my hand behind the safety while pulling the trigger it functions properly. Should the plastic grip cover these two tabs at the bottom of the safety?
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Thanks guys
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Apologize for the ignorance, but what does MSH mean? I’m not new to firearms, but I’m new to open guns and USPSA
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He said it did. It pops back in no problem. I reached out to Bobby and just heard back as well. Said the grip is defective. Is this something I can just change out or does a new grip needed to be fitted?
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I recently purchased a 2011 off the forums here and I’m having an issue with the grip safety. Frankly, it doesn’t work. I can pull the trigger when my hand is not on the grip. When the hammer drops the grip safety pops out of the grip. Any ideas how to fix this?
I’m new to the forum and I’m working on uploading a pic. Thanks
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On 4/22/2018 at 11:57 PM, Tokarev said:
Dram Worx makes a Pyrex glass hopper.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
I got one of these for Christmas. It’s very nice and durable. Before owning one my hopper would come loose when I would dump my powder back into the bottle after I was done loading. The Dram Worx hopper stays put
Do you have your reloader set up on the right, left or center of your reloading bench
in General Reloading
Posted
I have 3 presses mounted to my bench. My progressive on the left, shotgun in the middle, and single stage on the right. Setup works well, and I don't find myself wishing I had more room all that often