99mpower

definitely need to chrono. 4.0-4.1-4.2 would be where I start at. OAL is dictated ONLY by your barrel and a proper plunk test, and making sure they spin

Using Lucas Speed Wax after a complete mag disassembly/cleaning, when reassembling, has made a huge difference. Apply like a car wax on the mags, and it helps keep dirt away, and mags cleaner, longer

Anyone run B8 drills at distance? 25-50yds? Talk about helping trigger control and proper sight alignment/sight picture. Very humbling try the 10/10/10/100 drill 10yds 10 rounds HAS TO BE IN 10 ring (100pts) 10 seconds or less. Draw from any holster some fun drills on the B8 development group page on FB, and you can earn patches too

^^^ that... oil

Have a G34 set up for production, and 2 very heavy Tanfo stock 2s... i love the heavier Tanfos, quicker doubles, and easier to track the sights

need to get out and test accuracy with the Legion now... its always been a toy

all i run are win primers in my worked over Stock 2s by J&L. 14# hammer spring, and extended fire pin have allowed me to run whatever primer i want

his rev 3 does, its already out. ONLY to be used during 9mm processing.

shell plate is too loose is where i would start. By not being tight enough, its allowing the shell plate to "fling" over the spring ball detent adjust the overtravel bolt in the 11 o clock position start with those two and you'll be good to go. The autodrive guys dont have this issue once the home switch is properly set, since the drive slows at "home"

.... in the trash they go.. not worth the effort

yeah, i just went to their website. whenever i pick them up with a magnet, the head is usually what "seems" magnetic, not the body. All good, just got them switched

Going with a double charge. as careful as you are, mistakes can happen

you got a unicorn ive set up a few, and they were always a bitch in my opinion

well I'll be damn.. had to look that up, because when you grab them with a magnet, thats not what I would of expected... touche'

im not familiar with the Case Pro.. .is that a rollsizer? should be rolling the case head, not the middle/upper part.. If its not working the way you want, Id trim brass on the Dillon with a RT1500 and carbide size die, and after trimming is done, re-size again with a Small base die in station 4 or 5 depending on how you have it set up www.rollsizer.com

Dillon 550 or Used Dillon 650. I'd be looking for a used 650 if I was in your shoes

plenty of companies make the roll sorters and bowl sorters. When you get in to the commercial processing/sorting business, they are everywhere. I even know of a few for sale currently on the used market. I want a roll sorter and bowl sorter pretty bad. I sort about 600# of brass a month right now on my custom sorting table and Ultimate Sorter setup.

after using both an LNL and a 650, the Dillon just works "easier". More user friendly, easier to set up, etc. The LnL will make ammo, but it requires more fiddling, maintenance, etc to keep it running. Setting up the Dillon 650 is quick, the LnL is a half day affair.

www.thejudgedie.com from Mojo Precision. Specifically catches and alerts you to stepped brass during processing. Can even get a buzzer if you process manually

zero issues after 135k winchesters.. did require some tweaking in the rf100 to get them to run reliably helps that you can get winchesters cheaper then CCIs pretty much any time as well.

definitely not reloadable without special stuff. the case head is magnetic as well, so its easier to pick up off the ground

Id take the upper off the AR, and chamber check some rounds. I'd make die adjustments til the brass will chamber. Are you using a full length size die or Small base? I dont like small base dies, as you are undersizing the brass. To get the brass back to specs, ROLLSIZING is the correct way to do it, not undersizing it

absolutely agree.. more dryfire, less trying to make every round "perfect"

have a buddy who can rollsize? buy rollsized brass?

what about when you crack/break the clear tube in the brass piece and its stuck in there?