99mpower

Either would be a great choice. The 320 is definitely more customizable though. The Canik aftermarket support, is getting better though

Im a huge advocate of 135 TC bullets. the TC nose profile means it will pretty much feed in anything, and the 135 gn is a great compromise of price and quantity between 124 and 147s in regards to felt recoil/etc/etc

based on needs, definitely Dillon... 550 would be first instinct, but I absolutely love my 650, and have had a few 650s before I started upgrading to 1050/1100/2000s. Not a huge fan of the 750, with all the primer feed issues Ive heard of, and i understand some people dont like the 650 primer system, but ive had very few issues, as i keep mine clean/maintained. Definitely blue though, no matter which model you choose

Shoot the same with or without friends...

i love shooting with the better squads... allows me to baseline my performances, and try different stage plans that I might not normally come up with

depends on your comfort level, but I love "kiss" (keep it simple stupid) in the end, its all execution of your plan

my Tanfo DA is under 4lbs i think, I never even think about it. never been a problem

massive debate... all really depends on what you are comfortable with, type of holster, type of dot, etc, etc

welcome!

welcome!!

love the older pro version, even better with a spring attachment on an auto-drive

definitely run an FW Arms primer backing die.

i run aftermarket toolheads for sure on my S1050. Cant remember exactly, but if you look up Fast Brass, should find them, or if you go to www.immortobot.com, they also carry aftermarket tool heads. DO NOT BUY ALUMINUM toolheads for a 1050/1100/2000. I know they have started to come out, and thats a terrible idea.

absolutely love my RF100s. I have one in Small and one in large as well.. going through them on occassion and cleaning them completely, and making sure they are put together well, (all bolts tight) makes a massive difference

im a huge fan of the redding dies.. i have my share of Dillon stuff, but Redding carbide dies, just LAST on my automated S1050s.

pretty slick, nice setup

just a small dremel, with a sanding wheel, and rounding all the bottom edges is what I was referring too.. nothing crazy

go to snipers hide, get into the classifieds, and you could build a NICE rifle with everyone's 2nds or olds, and then put a nice barrel on it, and bam, save yourself 20-30% off. What my plan is going to be moving forward. Currently have a nice Accurate Ordnance setup from Mark in an XLR Envy chassis with a Vortex Razor in 6.5m. Wanted easy brass options, and the 140gn Berger Hybrids just hammer with 4350 powder

waxed game changer for rear bag, and then i have ARCA rail plate/bag combo depending on the stage. Gamechanger has been around from day 1, and you dont mess with success. I've tried others, but ALWAYS go back to my original gamechanger, or the waxed gamechanger depending on how much grip i need

way Ive always done it, and teach in the military. Drop to strong knee, lean forward, and brace with support, and then kick out feet.

OP: do you know how to calculate power factor? Do you have a chrono? Id guess with HP-38, that somewhere in the 3.0-3.3gn would be right for a 147gn bullet. Make sure you chrono, and calculate power factor for approx 131-134PF, so that temperature, and any variability gets reduced, so that you never chrono under 125PF at matches. No need to run it that close to legal, unless you are shooting GSSF, or something that doesnt check

i normally progressively set primer depth on my 1050, til it "JUST STARTS" to smoosh, and then back it out a touch. That way you know its fully seated, and its always just under flush. Zero issues. If you want to get really fancy, you can get a CPS primer, and set primer by .001" increments

i have one I believe from Fast Brass. I'll have to go check, but i have Hundos for 9, 40, 45, 223, and 300bo. Have a 50 for 308

Lyman M die in the primer location, has helped almost reduce all powder pop issues. So much smoother loading 9mm at 1800rph

the AA plate is 150% worth every penny. Running 9/40/45, you can run all 6 bolts, and it keeps up with zero issues, i actually had to turn down the speed of the upgraded motor from Mark, so they "run" all the time. As an added benefit, the AA plate also drastically reduces jams in the tube. They stil happen, but at a FAR less rate. I'm going to take a dremel and bevel the bottom of the AA plate openings and that should help stop the jams even more. I had good luck doing that to the Dillon plate, before the AA plate came out