SlappyMcTrigger

Good luck @vgdvc ! Hope you get it figured out.

Exactly or buy a new one. The one I had an issue with was a C&S (IIRC) but I’ve had great luck with them in every grip save one of the few plastic grips I have. I went scorched earth and replaced the whole ignition setup when it was a narrow $7 spring.

You sir, are a gentleman and/or a scholar. I was hoping you’d respond. Really digging the pistol. Thanks again. I’ll keep an eye on the two sites for one to pop up.

I want to move to a flat safety paddle on my bull shadow as the ledge for the stock safety and my grip don’t get along. Only thing I can find is a D style which I already purchased not realizing tumbler style safeties were a thing. I’ve only found mention of this topic in passing in a few threads here and elsewhere so my apologies if this thread is a dup and my Google-fu is weak tea. Shoulda stuck with 1911/2011’s I suppose. Does this just involve a different sear cage? Are there other parts I need (detents, springs, etc.)? I’m good with minor fitting and polishing. Thanks in advance for any help.

Lee resizing/decap die solved primer drawback for me if you're talking about a Dillon die. It was the only thing I didn't like about my 1050.

Used to loath crimped primer pockets and some headstamps with tight pockets. Like @MemphisMechanic said, great reason to upgrade to the 1050 and my experience matches his regarding primer seating and its consistency. Now my favorite thing is to see brass I used to scrap loaded perfectly in my Hundo.

I’m loading right at that same oal for my S2 with a PD 124 JHP. Can’t remember where the plunk and spin started failing but i went shorter to allow for some variance and because my accuracy was great at that OAL in my testing. Looks like my pistol is an ‘18.

I won’t store a case mouth up on my bench (I load on an auto-indexing progressive). Not saying it’s full proof but the results between picking up a charged case and putting it through the press versus having a small pile of powder on the bench is stark. Simple measure for sure but one I practice.

This. I don’t drop my slide on an empty chamber but def make a habit of keeping a spare. Doing what @GregJ suggests also has the advantage of the replacement being broken in and tested as opposed to doing this during the match.

Not to start an argument but this sparked my curiosity. Wouldn’t it have more to do with an overbuilt chamber to withstand the pressure? I would think if the pressure was too high, it would cause damage before the gas hit the popple holes/comp. I may very well be wrong just trying to wrap my head around how the comp would help.

Found your spreadsheet a few weeks ago and used your data as a starting point. Just wanted to say thanks, bud.

Here is the info from today. 68° and overcast. Perfect day really. COAL was just shy of 1.10”. Didn’t weigh these and just put in 124 so the pf could be a little off. Accuracy was as good as I can shoot (not much of a bullseye guy hence my screen name). Shot out of the same shadow 2 from above. 124 PD- JHP 3.75 gr. TG CCI Average Weight 124 FPS 1051 1082 1087 1087 1086 1069 1055 SD 15.6 Average FPS 1074 Average PF 133.2

This. Most CZ’s require shorter COAL. I doubt you’ll need to shorten it that much and with that charge you shouldn’t be running into pressure issues. My manual shows 3.6 as a starting charge for titegroup @1.125” with a lead 125. Looks like they took the specs right of Hodgdon’s website. Another option would be looking at a TC such as Blue Bullet’s offering. More forgiving ogive assuming you wanted to keep the length or you could ream out the barrel.

After reading several threads on this exact same topic I loaded some JHP test rounds last night at 1.09” for a shadow 2. Raining today and the wife is celebrating another trip around the sun but I’ll report back hopefully tomorrow. I did test PD’s 124 -FMJ earlier and here’s what I got. Was in the 60’s and COAL was just under 1.13”. Didn’t plug in the 4gr load since this was closer to my goal of 132-135 pf. The “TG” is titegroup.

Yet another vote for the PM9. I prefer a carbon steel blued pistol but the quality for the $$$ is outstanding. Absolutely love mine.

Same here and it works with SV, STI, and MBX tubes.

Sweet pistol bud! I went back and forth on the extra slide serration a million times. Funny how it changes the look of the length IMHO. You need to get some more (better) shots of that thing.

17 lbs. mainspring and a 9 lbs. recoil spring in my 9mm edge with my reloads (140ish pf). Like what was suggested earlier, get a few springs and have a friend with an iPhone film you from the side in slo-mo. See which spring returns the pistol to zero with the least amount of sight noise using your ammo, grip, stance, etc.

Almost exactly 14 months. Would have been a few weeks earlier but they said they had to send a few of the smaller parts for re-coat.

Congrats guys! Just got mine and I couldn’t be happier.

Welcome to the forum Phillip. Check out Sir Walter USPSA on the first Saturday of every month. By far my favorite match around the triangle. You are correct, we live in a great area for shooting sports and there is a quality match within reasonable driving distance just about every weekend.

“Let’s say ammo cost is the same” —in that universe I’d go with the 38 all day long but in the real world where the cost is different I would say it depends on what you’re planning on doing with it. The fact that you mentioned minor leads me to believe this is for competition and with that, and the typical higher volume of shooting, cost may factor in. I agree that the 38 will probably run more reliably and with less tinkering but 9mm 1911’s can and do work if setup properly and with the right mags/OAL.

Also, congrats on the new press! I recently got my 1050 from a 650 and couldn’t be happier with it.

Sharpen the Dillon decapping pin to a chisel point. Only issue I’ve had with my 1050 is primers sticking to the end of the pin and getting pulled back into the primer pocket.