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SlappyMcTrigger

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About SlappyMcTrigger

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Male
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    NC
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    PewPew
  • Real Name
    Erick Collins

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  1. Welcome to the forum Phillip. Check out Sir Walter USPSA on the first Saturday of every month. By far my favorite match around the triangle. You are correct, we live in a great area for shooting sports and there is a quality match within reasonable driving distance just about every weekend.
  2. “Let’s say ammo cost is the same” —in that universe I’d go with the 38 all day long but in the real world where the cost is different I would say it depends on what you’re planning on doing with it. The fact that you mentioned minor leads me to believe this is for competition and with that, and the typical higher volume of shooting, cost may factor in. I agree that the 38 will probably run more reliably and with less tinkering but 9mm 1911’s can and do work if setup properly and with the right mags/OAL.
  3. Also, congrats on the new press! I recently got my 1050 from a 650 and couldn’t be happier with it.
  4. Sharpen the Dillon decapping pin to a chisel point. Only issue I’ve had with my 1050 is primers sticking to the end of the pin and getting pulled back into the primer pocket.
  5. Also check that they fit in your mags. Some guns will have enough freebore that your mags will actually be the limiting factor.
  6. STI actually has a pretty solid warranty even if you’re not the original owner. I see what you mean about not getting a problematic gun but even a brand new 2011 may fit this category. The good news is that often minor tweaking/tuning can resolve issues. I’ve had to go through both of my edges and a costa that had to be sent back to STI. Only one of those three was new when I bought it. Weigh the cost savings against potential headaches of used but know that even new STI’s get sent back for issues from time to time.
  7. This. Use a heavy bullet and a fast powder. Bigger diff between 170pf-180pf than 125pf-135pf IMHO. I load my 9 minor to 140’s pf cause anything lower feels too slow with a 147 gr bullet. I use 200 gr blues over n320 for .40 major. Recently picked up some Clean shot cause I’ve heard it works great and is a fair amount cheaper. OP— grab some heavy bullets and you’ll start to see a difference.
  8. 1911–With tang which will hit the frame and stop over inserting: 2011–No tang to stop over insertion:
  9. There is nothing except the mag catch to prevent over insertions on a 2011. The mags do not have a tang like what is found on a 1911 mag to stop it. Your statement about tuning is inaccurate regarding 2011’s which is what the OP is asking about. Slide lock is a personal preference but the majority of folks who do not want their 2011 to go to slide lock (the majority of 2011 owners) do so because of the design of the pistol/magazines not because they are not tuned.
  10. I have the nitrofin and think it helps with grip consistency and don’t have issues going back and forth with SS. Try one and I’m sure you could sell it and recoup most of the money you spent if you don’t like it. I dimpled mine and removed some off the inner shelf to prevent slide lock. I agree with the above statement about weak hand only (provided you’re a righty). I went to inadvertent slide lock without the dimple by bumping it with my hand.
  11. You do lose capacity with lock back followers in some applications. Competition followers tend to be shorter than one with a shelf to interface with the slide stop.
  12. People who run them are in limited division with ~20 round mags. Additionally, the majority of people don’t want a 2011 to lock back because the mags don’t have a tang to stop over insertion which can break the ejector. If you run dry during a stage with 20 round mags then you’ve probably already had the wheels come off.
  13. This is consistent with what I’m getting on my 650 using mixed headstamps and blues. I also have a bearing kit which allows for a tighter shell plate.
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