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WAlamo

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Posts posted by WAlamo

  1. For those of you who like to mount a Romeo Max or XL on a S2 OR and find out is to big for it.  You can mount it and spend just about $50 extra bucks.

     

    What you need:

    2 CZ mounting plates for cmore/vortex razor 

    1 aluminum sheet of 1mm thickness

    2 M3 x 12mm screws

    2 M4 x 12mm screws

    Metal cutting scissors

    drill

    Metal file

     

    procedure:

    Make a template on the aluminum sheet using one of the CZ plates.  Then cut it and use the metal file to get it to the right size and clean the edges.  This will be use as a shim.

     

    Use the CZ plate again an align the aluminum shim under it, mark the location of the the screws.  Use the drill and a bit that is a little thicker than the screws to make holes.  You want passthrough holes for the screws.  Mark the location of the pins and make those holes too.

     

    Install in the following order.  CZ plate, aluminum shim, CZ plate, then m3 screws to slide.  If you feel resistance in the screws, measure the distance and file that from the screws.  Do this until you can secure the plates tight to the slide and the screws don’t pass beyond underneath the slide.  Apply blue loctite, a good amount to the holes and screws.  You don’t want this get loose.  
     

    Then apply blue loctite to the plate holes for the sight screws and to the sight screws.  Use the M4 screws and mount the sight.  I let the loctite set in as per the instructions, 24hrs.

     

    Then I went to the range, shoot 200 rounds testing the setup and zeroing the sight.  No brass hit the sight at any moment, worked flawlessly.

     

     

     

     

    C0917E5B-7472-4564-97A8-A3E253FC3127.jpeg

    114C2ABF-9BA0-4AE5-A36A-8D2FF6256BC1.jpeg

  2. 1 hour ago, shred said:

    I made myself a custom plate for the S2 OR to do this with a R3Max and ran it at Nationals last year, but you lose some of the advantage of the low-mount the optic cut gives you by raising it up.   Plus a little pucker-inducing with the number of R3's I'd had fail during the run up.   I don't really recommend it unless you just have to have that scope and no other will do.

     

     

     

     

     

    I ordered it without realizing it didn't fit.  The place I bought it from will only give me credit for it and had no other sights that interested me.  The SRO was my second option.  Raising it won't bother me that much as I'm moving from Open to CO.  In Open the sight is always higher than the slide, so in terms of aiming I know what to expect.  Can you share what happen to the ones that failed?  How many of them?

  3. Ok, so I got the S2 OR and a Romeo 3 XL. I now know the XL doesn't fit the S2 OR plate cut as it is slightly longer.  My questions are:

     

    1) Is it possible to remove the iron sight and install a dovetail mount for the Romeo 3 XL?  I don't know if dovetail mounts fit in the S2 OR dovetail.  Guessing is a standard size but asking just in case is not.

     

    2) Does anyone know if there is a custom plate made for the Romeo 3 XL to mount on S2 OR?  Looking at the CMORE plate, all that needs to be done is make it 2-3mm thicker and move the optic screw holes and pins back 2mm.  But it seems no parts manufacturer cares about making one.  Maybe there is someone that does custom plates.

     

    The XL is so a nice I don't want to turn it down, would love to keep it.

  4. 16 hours ago, jsykes said:

    The only downside I've heard about the BUL guns is that they use proprietary mags and some other parts. 

     

    I know several people that shoot Atlas and they love them.  They have gotten a little expensive though.  There are a lot of good options out there for what Atlas charges or less.

     

    Limcat

    Venom

    Bedell

    Akai

    Pat Rafferty

     

    and the list goes on.

     

    I recently had Don at Venom build me a gun.  I got what is pretty much a clone of an Atlas for several grand less than what Atlas charges.  Full custom with everything I wanted on it and the finishes I wanted.  He was awesome to work with and got it in a very reasonable time.  I sent him my deposit the first week of December, the parts were ordered a couple days later and I took delivery of it 2/26.

     

    I was all ready to do an Atlas, but then started reading the forums and doing some research and found Don.  Look around, there are a lot of good options out there and not all of them are a year wait or have to cost a large fortune (even though all open guns seem to be a small fortune).

     

    Good luck.

    596469844_venomcopy.thumb.jpg.8c70420bb86b325369c7c8c239711de7.jpg

     

    Looks good!  is this a middle or large size?  The comp looks very short.

  5. 25 minutes ago, Balakay said:

    But this is exactly what you need.  Privately.  Most people who drop 6-8K for a new Open gun are likely reluctant, especially in a public forum, to say "Meh.  I can't tell the difference from my older gun that cost half as much."
    You need to hear about bad service, misfit safeties, loose comps, unreturned emails, extractors that don't extract, etc.  Otherwise this thread turns into basically a census of who bought what ..  I bought "______".  The fit and finish is "insert superlative".  "The customer service is stellar."  " It is more accurate than I am"

     

    You are right about that.  So, let me begin with one that is not listed here.

    I own a STI DVC Open.  Have it for about 2 years and some extra months now.

     

    The good:

    The gun shoots nice, looks good, feels good in my hands.  They removed some weight on these newest models, I'd rather preferred they had left the weight in.

     

    The bad:

    Extractor was problematic after 3 months.  I bought an Aftec extractor for it.  The original extractor was so bad that I only needed to push it with my index finger to take it out of the slide.  After putting in the Aftec there were no more extraction problems.

    At about 8 months the sight (Cmore RTS2) electronics got damaged.  No water damage or the sight being struck against anything.  Just got crazy, dot turning off/on even when racking the slide.  Cmore replaced it under warranty and they even said "no idea how it went bad".

     

    The Ugly:

    About 4 months ago the slide cracked on top from the front all the way back to the second port hole.  Sent it to STI and they sent me a replacement gun.  I had the silver/gold but they offered me the black version, unless I wanted to wait for 6+ months.

     

    So overall, the gun is good for the price.  But since STI has stopped making these type of guns; I have decided to use this one for training and get me a real good Open gun.  I've been thinking about the Atlas Chaos so far.

  6. Well it seems that Carne is making lots of noise in the custom guns market.  And the noise is from shooters not commercial advertising.  The guns DO look great and I watched a video of an open gun and it looked like top end gunsmith work.  Will keep this guns in mind.

     

    What about warranty?  any experience with that?

  7. 37 minutes ago, Sarge said:

    I wouldn't buy a gun that was about the same quality as a DVC. :P Look at a CK Arms gun. Great gun for the money. I love my Cheely Guns but he has stopped building to focus on aftermarket parts.

    You are right about going with better quality.  But some of us can only afford DVC quality.  I wish I could get me a 7k open gun!

  8. 5 hours ago, FTP_Shooting_Sports said:

    I think you are going to find your best bet is the old sharp screwdriver and scraping method. Any chemicals powerful enough to attack the build up in the comp are also going to attack the loctite and possibly the comp and barrel itself.


    It is far easier to keep the comp clean than waiting for a huge buildup.

     

    When I had removable comp (Czechmate), I would use hydrogen peroxide and vinegar and will soften the buildup but the off gas from that solution is probably not advisable to breathe!

     

     

    Agree with the screwdriver and scraping.  If you do at least 1 time for every 3 times the gun is used; you’ll always have a well clean comp.

  9. 4 minutes ago, Hooked said:

    By the looks of it, but I may be wrong, the socket cap screw goes into the slide racker and then screws into the hole in the slide. Doing it this way captures the slide racker and affixes it to the frame so that it doesn't rotate.   A much better solution than the old-new slide racker that has the integral stud.

    Thank you!

  10. 2 hours ago, Cosmo71 said:

    Here's the requested photo.  This is the slide racker that came on my DVC Steel, bought 5/25.  A friend had the same failure you did on his DVC Open and was sent the same "new-new" racker as replacement. 

    compressed.jpg

     

    Nice thank you, I sent warranty request email to STI and told them about the "new new" racker.  I don't really understand how this one is mounted to the slide.  Do you install the black screw and then the racker on top of it?  Sorry but I just can't see how it mounts,on the right side of the slide there is just another hole in case you like the racker on the right side.  So that means the screw is not a locking device to prevent the racker from rotating and getting loose.

  11. 3 hours ago, Cosmo71 said:

    It's hard to tell from the photo but it appears that yours is the "new" stainless steel version with integral threaded stud.  STI has an improved "new-new" version with an aluminum handle that uses an allen socket head steel machine screw, which my DVC Steel came with.  I think/hope this is a much better design.  I'm sure STI will replace yours with the "new-new" version under warranty.  Please let us know if you are able to buy a spare.   I might want to order one too!

     

    Yes is the  “new” not the “new new”. I wasn’t aware there is a “new new” design. I let you know the outcome, thank you for the info

  12. Hi guys! So after waiting for 8 months and after 1000 rounds my new gun slide racker broke.  No the gun wasn't dropped neither it broke while racking it.  During the middle of today;s match it got loose and I tighten it up again.  This design is the only thing I found to be sloppy when I got the gun.  After the match I decided to stay a little longer and practice a bit.  I was shooting then I noticed it wasn't there anymore.  Searched the ground found it and noticed it was broken at the base of the screw.  I was lucky I could used some WD40 on the screw still attached to the slide, left it for 1 hour then used a torch to heat it good.  After that it rotated and was easy to be removed. 

     

    I plan on requesting replacement under warranty, however I like to buy an extra one and if possible better quality.  I can't find this part in Dawson or SpeedShooter.  Anyone has other good source for STI parts?

     

     

     

     

    IMG_2946-2.jpg

  13. 1 hour ago, tcazes said:

    If it's an open gun that won't run jhp reliably long I'd be sending it back in a hurry. Local guys have nothing but issues with sit lately. I'd be sending it back. You shouldn't be crimping it, you should be just removing the bell. 1.16 should fit. Period. 

     

    That is how I feel but I wouldn’t like doing it.  It took STI 6 months to deliver my gun imagine if I send it back.  6-8 months waiting

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