reverse_edge

36 grit is ideal, based on my experience.

Oh, solid!

But you're only getting 20 in? My TTI +4's are coming in at 3.87 on one scale and 3.90 on another. I think I'd like to chase 0.50 elsewhere for the extra two rounds, I think. On another note, I did a little searching and came up empty. Has anyone started a list of common part weights? Does anyone think that would be helpful?

11.5# HS Generally been running 10/11# recoil springs, but wanted to experiment with lighter springs. The 8# feels nice, but my thumb brushed the slide ever so slightly and it felt like time stood still while I was waiting for the gun be ready to fire again. I think I'll stick with 10#

Hopefully they listen. Those guns Robin built are amazing looking. Also, while you're at it, get them to make a smooth dust covered s2 without a rail. Call it a Shadow 3, so we can get really confused with tanfo s2/s3. Not only would it look killer, it would probably point a little nicer and maybe the muzzle would dip less. (Or they could make the slide lighter like CO guns.)

I use the HF mixer because it was cheap with a coupon. It's loud, but its mostly due to noise of the gear mesh with the slots in the barrel. I just cap off the opening with some plastic sheet and a bungee to contain the dust and close the garage door. The lowes/kushlan mixer does look nicer. Just depends on what you wanna spend.

The correct answer is always Dawson.

(281) 549-7249 M-F 8a-5p.

Patriot Defense probably does.

The Vibra Primes are pretty famously hit or miss, from what I can tell. Some people swear they work perfect out of the box, others tweak them to function, and then some such as myself don't see the benefit to messing around. In my opinion its just as easy (if not easier) to pick a whole brick of primers manually than to play around with the stupid thing. If the RF100 works, I just have to dump some primers in and that's it. My hands are free to do other things. If it doesn't - That's another story.

Always.

Apparently I was wrong. MBF it is.

Great minds of Enos, please confirm my thinking for me. For reference, I load 9mm only on a XL650 with casefeeder. I would like to upgrade to a 1050 at some point in the foreseeable future. On the surface, The MBF seems nice and comes well recommended, but after thinking about it a bit I've realized that I can place a bullet with my fingers just as fast as I can pull the lever. Can you pull the lever THAT MUCH FASTER with a MBF? On the other hand, the time spent picking primers out of a flip tray is time spent not cranking out rounds. Enter the RF 100. I've tried the vibra prime, and the whole thing just seems clumsy to me, and mine doesn't even work all that great. Even if it did work flawlessly, it still only minimizes the time spent loading primer tubes, which is still a separate task from loading rounds. The RF100, as best I can tell, is going to be the most efficient use of time (short of a fully automated press) by filling the primer tubes WHILE you're cranking out rounds. What say you all?

It's the ammo, more importantly the bullet profile. I had some Gallant 124gr RN loaded to 1.150 that plunked and spun great. I now have Blue Bullet 124gr RN that needs to be 1.090 to spin. Both shoot fine. And I've yet to come across a factory load that won't chamber.

.240

Who sells 8 lb & 9 lb recoil springs? I have 10 and 11s, and they're quite worn, but I wouldn't mind toying with lighter springs.

Correct, and that's why you keep the core as warm as possible and your hands and feet will be far better off. The heated vest idea isn't a bad one.

They generally run tight and narrow, but each model fits a little different. Best try them on, or buy online from a vendor that does free returns.

Same. I even emailed Henning to see if he'd consider doing a run of thicker grips, and how many sets he'd want to sell to make it a reality. No response.

The following roast in town: Rising Star Phoenix Loop Six Shooter Duck Rabbit Pour downtown makes good cups, but they buy beans from elsewhere. As does Passenger's Cafe.

Anything from a local roaster with a roasted date within the last 5-7 days. I generally prefer beans from Mexico and Central / South America.

Yes, sandbagging, by definition, is someone who's purposefully and unfairly competes at a skill-bracket deemed less rigorous than their actual level of competitive ability. If you just haven't shot enough classifiers, and you're still B class, and winning matches, you're not sandbagging, you just haven't shot enough classifiers, or they didn't count, etc. If you're purposefully tanking classifiers so that you can stay in C class and have a better chance at winning plaques and prizes - you're a sandbagger.

You and Kyle H are prime examples. You've seen people purposefully tanking classifiers so they can stay in a class where they'll more easily win their class at big matches? And you think that's okay and that it's their prerogative? Because that seems pretty unfair, not to mention quite silly in a sport where the prizes and awards leave much to be desired. I see people who are classed below their true skill level all the time. I dont think many of them are purposefully staying there. On the flipside, a grandbagger ain't hurting anyone but themselves.

Yes, this. THAT SAID, with the way our classification system works, it's not really that hard for people to be classed below their skill level. Especially now with the new HHFs. People toss around the terms grandbagger / sandbagger / paper GM too much, in my opinion. Just shut up and shoot.

No thanks.