Ajohnson15
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Posts posted by Ajohnson15
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On 4/7/2024 at 5:45 AM, pumpedTSI said:
The "lasting" isnt my concern......its the crudding up behind the extractor lever......removal for cleaning is a chore...
Eh, I usually just use like a brownells TCE or flush out after a session to just knock most of the crap out without fully removing and can’t say I’ve ever gotten it built up enough to need to actually remove extractor prior spring replacement interval. Running N320 for my reloads which seems to help.
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21 hours ago, pumpedTSI said:
That pistol looks great.....congrats! The only other "issue" when the gun has an optic mounted is the extractor pin...it needs to be shortened since it now contacts the bottom of the optic base or plate if you have one. This means the optic needs removed to remove the optic...PITA. I actually drilled a relief hole in my optic mounting plate to allow the pin to pass thru into the plate, this means while I still need to remove the optic to remove the pin, now I dont need to also remove the plate. I probably wont remove/change the extractor but once a year so its probably ok.
Now that I have cut the slide the balance is very good and it transitions well for a full size gun.....very controllable and very accurate.
Extractor will last a good 50k, spring might could use the occasional replacement every 10 or 20 though.
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Cerakoted aluminum frame that’s not anodized even? Sounds like a cool sub 10k gun before fatigue cracks start to propagate
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On 3/4/2024 at 7:54 PM, Z-Chaos-Factor said:
Na, needs a stepped up diameter section in the rear, that one is just a tungsten version of the standard one.
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11 hours ago, arcsign said:
I went poking around yesterday, but couldn’t find a third module; only the full size rail and compact no-rail.Should have been a compact railed module shown at some point in time. Not released, but obviously the part does exist.
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55 minutes ago, lmaobaka said:
dented in and bent slightly upwards lol
Man, I’ve used the frames as literal hammers on more than a few occasions, that’s kinda impressive, have a picture?
I probably have a spare or two somewhere
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Someone really aught to just make a steel guide rod that’s ~.325 for the about 1.2 inches ahead of the spring seat and .240 the rest of the length to facilitate standard government length 1911 round wire recoil springs without boring the slide. Really the best upgrade is a 9lbs.
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On 2/27/2024 at 11:43 PM, arcsign said:
Does anybody else find it odd that CZ/DW would go through the trouble to develop a modular serialized part for the DWX (however gorgeous it may be) without any apparent intent to use it elsewhere? It seems like a lot of effort for two models unless they have something planned further down the line… and I haven’t really seen/heard whisperings of anything along those lines.
I mean publicly there’s been 3 different modules shown.
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On 2/18/2024 at 12:23 AM, lmaobaka said:
Does anyone know if DW will sell replacement frames? I accidentally dropped mine from about 4ft and the beaver tail is now bent... lol
Interesting, actually bent or did you just dent the metal?
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On 2/1/2024 at 1:43 PM, Toggleme said:
Have we figured out the estimated weight of the stock recoil spring?
It’s 11 lbs.
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1 hour ago, Posvar said:
I talked it over with SSI regarding doing a Nitro Fin and Nathan said it was different enough from CZ or 1911/2011 to make it a difficult project. Perhaps with more interest he would do it.
Just looks that way, really just brought the standard front profile of a 1911 safety a in uniform amount, and added some material on the top to engage with slide still when locked. Slide being a bit wider overall would also require some compensation.
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On 12/9/2023 at 2:40 PM, Seakphotog said:
I also think there may be a widespread belief (even among the industry, judging from 2 email exchanges I've had with folks who should know better) that a 1911/2011 safety will work in a DWX. That may be another reason no one's rushing to make them. DW just ought to offer them...
I mean if a shop wants the spec. It’s not all the different from a 1911. Might know a guy who would be happy to help. -
On 10/12/2023 at 7:27 AM, Toggleme said:
I installed the Atlas Gunworks perfect match (which is basically the EGW kit), and did notice the missing finger. Installed the new spring and did not have any function issues on the sear/hammer.
Removing the little finger helps prevents eventual sear spring degradation. Otherwise they usually need retuned or would in some cases need replaced around 10-12kish. Not really a big deal, but did show up in lifetime, finger removal prevents it from occurring (finger on most sear springs will lightly graze the chassis during cycling which was the source)
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16 hours ago, benlineberry said:
I searched but don't see instructions on swapping the mag release from left to right (not in the manual, either.)
Has anyone does this, yet? Is it as simple as unscrew, switch sides, screw back in?It's like a 1911, but just reversible. Same procedure.
Just lightly turn the lock key while sliding it in until it finds the groove. Once you find the groove, let go of the catch and continue to turn the key lightly until the catch snaps into position
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On 7/5/2023 at 4:08 PM, eerw said:
Looking at the frame. should be able to do it.
-Anyone try to fit one yet??
I'd go for it. Good chonky area ahead of the chassis pocket that would work nicely.
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Different bows for the compact and fullsize
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23 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:
I am doing a trigger job on a buddies DWX and used the standard EGW Trigger Kit (Sear, Hammer, Disconnector, Sear Spring, Hammer Spring) and everything in that kit worked just as it would for a normal 1911/2011. The trigger job turned out great except for not being able to adjust the Pre/Over travel using the stock DWX Trigger Bow.
Here is my Question for the DWX experts, does a standard 2011 Trigger Shoe/Bow setup work in the DWX? I didn't have an extra one laying around to test it out. The back portion of the trigger bow looks like it is shorter top to bottom than a standard 2011 Trigger bow and given that the bow is riding in a completely different frame (vs a 2011 style frame) the width of the bow is probably different as well. I can't confirm for sure since I don't have a standard trigger bow to compare it to. If a Standard 2011 Trigger Bow doesn't work, does anyone make an aftermarket trigger bow which has Pre/Over travel adjustments?
The other thing that confuses me about the stock DWX trigger shoe is that the back side of the trigger shoe is threaded for a set screw where the over travel screw would go in a standard 1911/2011 trigger shoe, but the screw hole doesn't go all the way out to the front of the shoe. The threads look 5-40 to me and I guess you could put a set screw in there threading in from the back side of the shoe. But then you would have to take the gun totally apart to adjust the over travel set screw. That is mega dumb if it was intentionally designed like that.
I apologize up front if this Trigger Bow question has already been answered in this thread. If it has please point me to the post. I don't have time to wade through the current 55 pages of posts to dig for the answer. Thanks in advance to all of the DWX Experts willing to help!!!
Trigger bow is proprietary and there isnt enough space in the grip modules for a 2011 bow. The shoe is threaded from the rear. No need to take the firearm completely apart to adjust it a set screw though. Just remove the mag catch (super quick), adjust, and reinstall mag catch to confirm adjustment. You should be able to fit an Allen key from up top or through the side if you just take off a grip panel alternately.
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On 4/6/2023 at 10:18 AM, ColoradoNick said:
Can anyone confirm this takes a 1911 ignition kit? Based on the hammer/sear/disconnect on the DWX being 1911 I would
assume so?
Yes, but I'd clip the little dog leg off the side of the sear spring leg of the leaf spring. Just makes it last longer.
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On 3/7/2023 at 9:08 AM, jlficken said:
Was it ever determined if these have a forged or cast frame?
there are no cast or mim components in the dwx. Everything is either from forging or billet. (Frame is forged)
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4 minutes ago, PhilosopherKing said:
Yes to position one?
As for the sight how does it compare to the shadow 2?
Yes,
And the rear sight is the same one from the shadow 2
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On 1/14/2023 at 3:54 PM, eerw said:
The guys finished up playing with one of our DWX guns so we could pack it up and take it to SHOT Show.
Starting to see what can be added to such a fun platform.
Did some slide lightening. sorry, didnt weigh it.
Cut a comp into the thicker part of the barrel to actually get a chamber and not just holes in the barrel. works really well.
Cut for the SRO.
Made a magwell that blends better than the CZ factory well does.
Drilled and tapped mag release for paddle
Installed a new hammer and did trigger job, set at 2# right now.
No pricing on the work yet.
But if in Vegas, come on by the CZ Custom booth and check it out.
What that really needs is a modified steel guide rod for 1911 round wire springs
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6 hours ago, PhilosopherKing said:
I realize this is about the DWX.
Because this is another CZ essentially with no firing pin block, that could have this issue. The thread mentioned is 2-3 years old now.
On my SP-01 I cannot engage the safety unless the hammer is pulled all the way back.
I am think that the amswer to this issue/concern relating to all cz non-firing pin block pistols (and possibly all) is two fold.
It may be that CZ intends the pistol to be carried cocked and locked, regardless if there is one in the chamber.
If you cant put the saftey on unless it is cocked. It seams to me then, if you have a larger saftey to make it easier to learn to rest your thumb on it during firing. It would then become muscle memory to immediately turn off the saftey when firing. If putting back in the holster manually cocking it all the way then locking the saftey, the issue of drop firing becomes non-existent.
If you are the person that is very worried about this, and you are still set on the pistol, in this case the DWX; then one could experiment with heavier and heavier springs until it isn't an issue with a hammer hit primer test. Then test to make sure the preferred ammunition will fire reliably.
I am getting ahead of this as a possible concern.
People right now are so enamored with the DWX they aren't seeing the big picture. I am an INTJ, I tend to see problems and attempt to solve them before they occure.
If we are going to be nuanced, comparing this to a cz model without a firing pin block is inaccurate. The ignition system uses 1911 components and dimensioning for the firing pin channel itself.
You may accurately compare the model to 70 series 1911s and 2011s. The stock spring on the model is an extra power.
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59 minutes ago, eerw said:
The guys finished up playing with one of our DWX guns so we could pack it up and take it to SHOT Show.
Starting to see what can be added to such a fun platform.
Did some slide lightening. sorry, didnt weigh it.
Cut a comp into the thicker part of the barrel to actually get a chamber and not just holes in the slide. work really well.
Cut for the SRO.
Made a magwell that blends better than the CZ factory well does.
Drilled and tapped mag release for paddle
Installed a new hammer and did trigger job, set at 2# right now.
No pricing on the work yet.
But if in Vegas, come on by the CZ Custom booth and check it out.
Love it.
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2 hours ago, BryceA said:
Thanks for the info. Do you have a link to where I can read into this? There is a lot of vagaries about it working but before investing nearly 2k I'd really like to know for sure it works.
Stock mags with Henning basepad only will get you 18-19 (all I've tried have gotten 19 though it's a bit snug).
With henning basepad + grams spring and follower will get 21 consistently.
Dan Wesson DWX: The Mother Thread
in CZ
Posted
Shouldn’t be a length issue, guide rod seat length to the end of the recoil spring channel in the slide will match the same length as a 5inch 1911. Diameter of the guide rod is too small though (it’ll work but I personally prefer a tighter spring fit). Again really just need someone to make a guide rod that is stepped up before the seat for a short distance to better accommodate the round wire 1911 springs and then stepped down at the rest of the length to the front at the oem component diameter so the slide doesn’t have to be drilled out.
Alternately you could just 3d print - 1.2”-1.75” long .330”ish diameter sleeve and attempt to press it on to your existing guide rod down to the base. Probably would work, (might use an adhesive in addition to the press fit). Probably cheaper than getting another tungsten made.