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Ajohnson15

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Everything posted by Ajohnson15

  1. Cerakoted aluminum frame that’s not anodized even? Sounds like a cool sub 10k gun before fatigue cracks start to propagate
  2. Na, needs a stepped up diameter section in the rear, that one is just a tungsten version of the standard one.
  3. Should have been a compact railed module shown at some point in time. Not released, but obviously the part does exist.
  4. Man, I’ve used the frames as literal hammers on more than a few occasions, that’s kinda impressive, have a picture? I probably have a spare or two somewhere
  5. Someone really aught to just make a steel guide rod that’s ~.325 for the about 1.2 inches ahead of the spring seat and .240 the rest of the length to facilitate standard government length 1911 round wire recoil springs without boring the slide. Really the best upgrade is a 9lbs.
  6. I mean publicly there’s been 3 different modules shown.
  7. Interesting, actually bent or did you just dent the metal?
  8. Just looks that way, really just brought the standard front profile of a 1911 safety a in uniform amount, and added some material on the top to engage with slide still when locked. Slide being a bit wider overall would also require some compensation.
  9. I mean if a shop wants the spec. It’s not all the different from a 1911. Might know a guy who would be happy to help.
  10. Removing the little finger helps prevents eventual sear spring degradation. Otherwise they usually need retuned or would in some cases need replaced around 10-12kish. Not really a big deal, but did show up in lifetime, finger removal prevents it from occurring (finger on most sear springs will lightly graze the chassis during cycling which was the source)
  11. It's like a 1911, but just reversible. Same procedure. Just lightly turn the lock key while sliding it in until it finds the groove. Once you find the groove, let go of the catch and continue to turn the key lightly until the catch snaps into position
  12. I'd go for it. Good chonky area ahead of the chassis pocket that would work nicely.
  13. Different bows for the compact and fullsize
  14. Trigger bow is proprietary and there isnt enough space in the grip modules for a 2011 bow. The shoe is threaded from the rear. No need to take the firearm completely apart to adjust it a set screw though. Just remove the mag catch (super quick), adjust, and reinstall mag catch to confirm adjustment. You should be able to fit an Allen key from up top or through the side if you just take off a grip panel alternately.
  15. Yes, but I'd clip the little dog leg off the side of the sear spring leg of the leaf spring. Just makes it last longer.
  16. there are no cast or mim components in the dwx. Everything is either from forging or billet. (Frame is forged)
  17. Yes, And the rear sight is the same one from the shadow 2
  18. What that really needs is a modified steel guide rod for 1911 round wire springs
  19. If we are going to be nuanced, comparing this to a cz model without a firing pin block is inaccurate. The ignition system uses 1911 components and dimensioning for the firing pin channel itself. You may accurately compare the model to 70 series 1911s and 2011s. The stock spring on the model is an extra power.
  20. Stock mags with Henning basepad only will get you 18-19 (all I've tried have gotten 19 though it's a bit snug). With henning basepad + grams spring and follower will get 21 consistently.
  21. New York is still closed so probably not unfortunately.
  22. Its the same hammer/sear/disconnect set used in many DW 1911s. Trigger pull will feel essentially the same.
  23. Any modern 1911 hammer will work just fine, The old style a1 hammers and such that cant be used with a beaver tail safety on 1911s would run into a similar issue here of running into the beavertail.
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