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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Posts posted by Oldhand

  1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/37-oz-PEG-75-Lanolin-Sold-by-Weight-/254629671054?hash=item3b491c708e


    This is what Wayne at MA recommends for his dies.  I cut it  1-9 with the 99% alcohol.  Trick is to spray liberally and wait 15-20 for it to evaporate,  it will not gum up the dies like one-shot or dillon lube, no experience in brass juice..  I Also dont have to media tumble in the end to remove the excess case lube.  I bought the 10oz jug of it and have enough to last a long time and I reload for 4 of us that shoot.  

  2. For the cast version might as well just get the 1100, and save a thousand.  I bought 2 EVO's last year (CNC) when I heard they were in process of doing the cast.  On a side note probably a good time to pic up an extra head if they're still CNC,  I'm sure they'll be a premium down the road used over the cast head.  Did anyone beta test the primer express?  If they're good to go, I'll sell the RF100 and get a couple..

  3. I cut it 1:8 (1 oz to 8 oz alcohol) with 91% rubbing alcohol , you can also go 1:10 ratio too.  The stuff is on EBay only place I could find it and recommend by MA.  Mix, shake apply let set 15 min to dissipate the alcohol and good to go.  I mix a batch 400-500 at a time.  




  4. I originally went with the MA to get rid of the coke bottle look, lol.  But now running the Redding and the belling die if looks damn close to factory ammo.  I’ll post a pic of the set up and made rounds.  I’ve gone to this set up for 40 and 223, I just use the MA for decapping and the initial under sizing.  It seems easier to do the under sizing twice and my evo has an easier/smoother pull when making rounds. 

    I did wish this thread was done before and I could have saved some dollars along with the headaches   

  5. From the best I can tell the Mighty armory die does not undersize the brass enough and therefore does not have the proper neck tension when using a competition seating die due to the spring inside the die.  When I used a standard seat die (no spring) it made proper OAL but you could still push in the projectile in a few rounds and that can cause over pressure or failure to feed.  Since adding the Redding die just before the belling die everything is back to normal.  I still use the Mighty armory die as the decaping pin is the heftiest I've seen and is excellent.  In retrospect I should have just purchased his Universal decapping die and used the Redding die for sizing brass, could have saved a little money that away.  

  6. This Yes, have two Evo’s..  upgraded from 2 1050’s.  Love the Evo there’s super smooth and in the near future want to auto drive them, just wanted to work out the kinks on the new loaders first.    

    just read last update, I need to turn off the auto check as it keeps changing the words. 😂 


    I pulled apart the die and cleaned it again, thinking of giving the stem a quick polish as it seems to stick in the die body. 


  7. Use a Mighty Armory sizing and decaping die, swage hold down die, Belling die (set to just let the bullet to get positive seat on bullet feeder, I have powder drop only drop powder does not bell, MBF dropper, then the Redding comp  seating die and Redding comp taper die.


    Cleaned die , made sure that belled brass would not rub inside of die but still get positive sea t(bullet in brass) with die body only, backed off Mic to 1.5 then installed.  When I was setting up the final measurements one at a time no issue and got it where I want one I started to load it then started to set different lengths no matter how fast of slow I pull handle.. 


    Running 124gr FMJ. set at 1.25.  I put the the old seating die in and no issues ran off a hundred or so.    

  8. Just got the First Evo in yesterday and was setting it up, everything is good except for the powder measure, wanted to see if anybody else has had this problem.   I run a MA bell die in station 5 have it set perfectly for the bullet. Then set the powder die to depth so it moves the measure screw to the top and should dump a charge and not bell the brass.  Went to set the powder charge and screw the meter screw in (clockwise) for no powder and it will not actuate the drum, it locks up funnel and splits the case,  With the meter screw, screwed more than have way out,  it will will still not move through the cycle and throws no powder.  Backed out meter screw all the way it may throw less than a 1gr of powder (didn't measure).  I have not seen where the meter screw would lock up the powder measure and funnel when more than half way in.  Any Ideas? 

  9. Had the same problem with 40 sticking too.  Ordered the Mighty Armory taper die, stuck it in position 2 use that to bell and backed powder funnel off to just drop powder.  Best money I’ve spent no more sticking and the bullet has a positive set In the case and doesn’t fall over or move when cycling.  Can hpost video to show bullet doesn’t even wiggle if you want to see. 

  10. Just picked up a low round count PM9, with g10s and a Dawson ice Maxwell.  Is there any think else I need to do to it by chance that current owners noticed it needs?

    Not sure on putting in a SVI trigger bow for shave weight and hopefully it makes weight just under 43oz. 

    Going with my load from the Phantom that make 130PF, not sure what spring it has or what I should run to limit the nose dive, if any, with a stock spring.





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