Oldhand
-
Posts
104 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Oldhand
-
-
Running 3.8 N320, 1.135, MG 124 JHP at 130ish PF. Running in both a gmr15 and gen 3 Sig MPX, both run them fine.
-
On 6/9/2022 at 9:47 PM, CMoneyELR said:
We commercially load using Mark 7 Revo for rifle as they are great machines when tuned properly and maintained. Indexing and dwell is slowed for larger things like 6.5/308 or even 300 AAC with heavy subbies. With heavy projectiles they are too heavy and can topple on the ejector arm if your speeds are too high and can bungle the feeder arm.
Also if you rock a revo get the second and/or 3rd guide rod (especially if you want match level). If your ok with 1.2-1.5k / hr with match precision (again if set correct) and using high quality brass (Lap/Alpha/Peterson) and pow that meters well is absolutely comfortable. At/around the 1MM mark you WILL need a rebuild on the bushings and some other wear parts.
If you want higher rates and are absolutely ok with some loss of concentricity and are chasing fast production look at an alpha/BRT, vasini, or Ammoload Mark.
What powder drop are you using, the digital or mechanical? Im thinking of using my EVO for .308 in PRC class
-
Have done some searching and can't find who makes small primer .308 match ammo. Can find the brass but wanted to try some factory match loads before I start reloading .308 and build my brass supply.
Thanks
-
It's still Cast vs Billet "I only want cast parts on my gun-motorcycle-anything" said no one ever.
-
Curious to see the pic, hope it might help the splash to,
-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/37-oz-PEG-75-Lanolin-Sold-by-Weight-/254629671054?hash=item3b491c708e
This is what Wayne at MA recommends for his dies. I cut it 1-9 with the 99% alcohol. Trick is to spray liberally and wait 15-20 for it to evaporate, it will not gum up the dies like one-shot or dillon lube, no experience in brass juice.. I Also dont have to media tumble in the end to remove the excess case lube. I bought the 10oz jug of it and have enough to last a long time and I reload for 4 of us that shoot.
-
For the cast version might as well just get the 1100, and save a thousand. I bought 2 EVO's last year (CNC) when I heard they were in process of doing the cast. On a side note probably a good time to pic up an extra head if they're still CNC, I'm sure they'll be a premium down the road used over the cast head. Did anyone beta test the primer express? If they're good to go, I'll sell the RF100 and get a couple..
-
I’m surprised people have not bought it all up for use as hand sanitizer base with all that hoarding that’s been going on.
-
Really, I didn't know that. I'll go pick some up.. Thank you.
-
I cut it 1:8 (1 oz to 8 oz alcohol) with 91% rubbing alcohol , you can also go 1:10 ratio too. The stuff is on EBay only place I could find it and recommend by MA. Mix, shake apply let set 15 min to dissipate the alcohol and good to go. I mix a batch 400-500 at a time.
-
Wayne did turn me on to the case lube that works awesome abs doesn’t buildup like one shot or Dillons . I’ll post a pic if there are any requests for it.
-
I originally went with the MA to get rid of the coke bottle look, lol. But now running the Redding and the belling die if looks damn close to factory ammo. I’ll post a pic of the set up and made rounds. I’ve gone to this set up for 40 and 223, I just use the MA for decapping and the initial under sizing. It seems easier to do the under sizing twice and my evo has an easier/smoother pull when making rounds.
I did wish this thread was done before and I could have saved some dollars along with the headaches
-
From the best I can tell the Mighty armory die does not undersize the brass enough and therefore does not have the proper neck tension when using a competition seating die due to the spring inside the die. When I used a standard seat die (no spring) it made proper OAL but you could still push in the projectile in a few rounds and that can cause over pressure or failure to feed. Since adding the Redding die just before the belling die everything is back to normal. I still use the Mighty armory die as the decaping pin is the heftiest I've seen and is excellent. In retrospect I should have just purchased his Universal decapping die and used the Redding die for sizing brass, could have saved a little money that away.
-
I added the Redding seating die in station 4 to hold brass that is. being primed and that seems to have helped by undersizing the brass a little more and the bullet is now seating at the correct OAL with +/- .002. For 9mm I can live with that. Thanks for all the advise especially Mike, you were right..
-
It’s a HUGE variance.
-
This Yes, have two Evo’s.. upgraded from 2 1050’s. Love the Evo there’s super smooth and in the near future want to auto drive them, just wanted to work out the kinks on the new loaders first.
just read last update, I need to turn off the auto check as it keeps changing the words.
I pulled apart the die and cleaned it again, thinking of giving the stem a quick polish as it seems to stick in the die body.
-
With yes old die they vary +/- .003. It’s my might armory seating die. I’m due the difference is in the bullet length for this die. Not so much the dis it’s self. I was switching out this die to the Redding as it has the Delron insert and I have deformed it when the bullet didn’t seat correctly while loading.
-
Just once fired range brass, so mixed head stamps and oal set with all stations full
-
-
Set up my Redding dies the same as in the Video from above....
-
Use a Mighty Armory sizing and decaping die, swage hold down die, Belling die (set to just let the bullet to get positive seat on bullet feeder, I have powder drop only drop powder does not bell, MBF dropper, then the Redding comp seating die and Redding comp taper die.
Cleaned die , made sure that belled brass would not rub inside of die but still get positive sea t(bullet in brass) with die body only, backed off Mic to 1.5 then installed. When I was setting up the final measurements one at a time no issue and got it where I want one I started to load it then started to set different lengths no matter how fast of slow I pull handle..
Running 124gr FMJ. set at 1.25. I put the the old seating die in and no issues ran off a hundred or so.
-
I’m sure someone Has had this problem. I’m getting wide ranges of seating depth in this die from 1.06 to 1.36 everything set up correctly not sure what’s going on? wanted to see if anyone had an idea.
-
Just got the First Evo in yesterday and was setting it up, everything is good except for the powder measure, wanted to see if anybody else has had this problem. I run a MA bell die in station 5 have it set perfectly for the bullet. Then set the powder die to depth so it moves the measure screw to the top and should dump a charge and not bell the brass. Went to set the powder charge and screw the meter screw in (clockwise) for no powder and it will not actuate the drum, it locks up funnel and splits the case, With the meter screw, screwed more than have way out, it will will still not move through the cycle and throws no powder. Backed out meter screw all the way it may throw less than a 1gr of powder (didn't measure). I have not seen where the meter screw would lock up the powder measure and funnel when more than half way in. Any Ideas?
-
Had the same problem with 40 sticking too. Ordered the Mighty Armory taper die, stuck it in position 2 use that to bell and backed powder funnel off to just drop powder. Best money I’ve spent no more sticking and the bullet has a positive set In the case and doesn’t fall over or move when cycling. Can hpost video to show bullet doesn’t even wiggle if you want to see.
New discount
in Summit City Bullets
Posted
Never shot the coated bullets only the plated ones. How does your compare to plated?