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grottulf

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Posts posted by grottulf

  1. 14 hours ago, OhioGunner said:

    For the smoke composites handguard, do I want the AR or the PCC?  I know someone with a 7" from them so I assume AR, but this is on a pcc.  Thanks in advance!

    To take fully advantage of the possibility to use a smaller diameter handguard, I would definately choose the PCC model.

     

    But if you prefer a handguard with a larger diameter, you should choose the AR version.

  2. I forgot the picture...😊

     

    I use one piece clamp style shaft collars to be able to adjust or block off the ports.

     

    I only found them in metric dimensions though, so we had to turn the inner diam up slightly, for them to fit the barrel.

     

    Another word of advice is to push a lead slug inside the barrel, where the hole is going.

    Thats a good way to minimize the risk for burrs inside the barrel, when drilling.

     

     

     

    20221108_085945_copy_1512x2016.jpg

  3. Time for a late update on the porting matter...

     

    I did the usual mods, the comp and a kynshot buffer.

    The gun shot ok, but I felt there was still room for improvement. 

    So I tried installing a couple of opposing neodym magnets in the rear of the buffer, which made it a bit more soft to shoot.

     

    Next step would probably be to start reloading, and figure out a load with a lower PF that works well.

    But since I'm just about as fond of reloading, as I am of eating worms, I started thinking of porting the barrel again.

    But this time mostly to reduce the PF of factory ammo.

     

    I decided to try porting really close to the chamber.

    I didn't want to put it too far out, since I didn't want the blast to interfere with my grip for obvious reasons.

     

    I started very conservative with a 2mm (~.08") hole 90mm from the breech face, but I was surprised at how little it affected the velocity. 

    I drilled it out little by little, and chronoed it after every time.

    Eventually I ended up with a 6mm (~.24") hole 73mm (~2.9") from the breech face.

     

    This really made wonders with the recoil.

    I would estimate that I have about half as much dot bounce, than a comped mpx.

    Not as soft though, not that it matters.
     

  4. 8 hours ago, copterdrvr said:

    I'm not sure where your are money wise, but a CMC 9mm trigger makes everything go bang.......

    Thanks for the advice, but it's not the hiperfire trigger that causes the light primer strikes.

    I've already ascertained, that it's because of the headspace.

    It would probably not hammer the bolt as badly though, due to the hammer being flat...

    But I've heard of many others using hiperfire triggers in 9mm without problems.

    And I would very much like to be able to keep it, since it's the fastest trigger I've shot.

    I can shoot splits down to 0.10-0.12 with it (as long as I don't have to hit anything...😳😅)

  5. Brownells still haven't solved the shipping/export problems, so I still use the old bolt.

    It works as long as I only use ammo with soft primers.

     

    But I'm starting to consider milling down the mating surfaces on the bolt or turning down the mating surface on the barrel, to decrease headspace...

    And/or buying another bolt...

     

    But I'm wondering how that would affect other things.

     

    If I mill the bolt, it will sit more towards the barrel...

    If I turn the surface on the barrel, I could also turn down the surface on the "ring" that mates against the upper, to compensate for that...

     

    Any ideas?

     

    I can add that I'm also having a problem now with the hiperfire-hammer (I swapped out the stock trigger), hammering the rear of the bolt, so it's become mushroomed. So I can't get the firing pin out anymore...

    (See pic)

    Considering the shape of the hiperfire hammer, I'm not really surprised that it has happened, but I'm not sure of how to fix it...

    Should I just grind out the problem areas, and hope it won't happen again, since the hammer won't reach it anymore?

    Or should I try to get the bolt to lock further to the rear (by turning down the ring on the barrel, so the barrel sits further to the rear?

    Or is it just crappy material in the FM-bolt, so it will solve itself with a better bolt?

     

    Any input would be appreciated

     

    20220914_175742_copy_2268x3024.jpg

  6. 14 hours ago, slappyjack said:

    I have been unable to cycle any rounds through this gun Othos xr12 pro with the 2 magazines that came with it, or with another UTAS 5rd I purchased online. I will load one round in the chamber shut the bolt, attach a mag with 2 rounds & fire the round. As of yesterday it fails to load another round that will fire when I pull the trigger! I have tried over 20 different loads both high and low brass, light and heavy loads, 2 3/4 & 3" shells not will cycle. (added picture of some of the many shells I have tried) Most of the time does not chamber the second round and if it does the bolt does not close all the way for it to fire. One time yesterday as I let the bolt go forward, it fired the 3"round with the gun on safe, the positive being I was at an outdoor range and muzzle was pointed at the ground. I have several AR12 Turk shotguns with this costing the most and preforming the worst.

    stormcase (3).JPG

    Like most turkish shotguns it  requires break-in, or that you disassemble it and polish any burrs and edges, that might cause friction.

    But if you can fire it while the safety is on, you should definately return it, and get another one 😳

     

     

     

  7. Stoeger and RIA VR80 have huge threads here, and there are some threads on the Tigris/Orthos here as well.

    And probably a lot more, that I can't recall at the moment.

    Is there a particular brand you're interested in, just ask.

    Someone will probably know something.

  8. 3 hours ago, SteelCityShooter said:

    You could buy a .308 comp threaded 5/8-24 and have it bored to 9mm.  That would be cheaper than rethreading a 1/2-28 9mm comp.

    Unless you can find a .308 comp with vertical ports, it wont be very effective though. 

  9. 17 hours ago, MakBaba said:

    That should work good for the barrel nut. For the muzzle device I guess I could just clamp the barrel in a vice.

    Thanks for the input!

    Yes, it's important to use a barrel vise when loosening barrel devices. 

    Don't ask me how I know...😳

     

    When it comes to vise blocks for the upper receiver, I like JP's blocks:

    https://jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPVC

     

    I'm not sure I would fully trust a vise block that only clamps to the take down lugs...

  10. 8 hours ago, mpom said:

    RSR is out of stock on the Othos xr12 pro, but they have the xtr12, Utas, much cheaper, but no magwell funnel, shorter handguard. lacks the lightening cuts.

     

     

    Mark

    Just to be clear though.

    The Utas XTR 12 is a completely different shotgun from another manufacturer.

    No side-charger, etc etc...

    Not saying that either is better or worse though...

  11. 7 minutes ago, Bill H said:

    The only reason I have a comp is to make the gun louder for the timer. Don't see much if any difference.  That's not much powder to work with.

    What comps have you tried?

    It isn't a night and day difference like with a .223, but the comps I have used definately makes a difference. 

    (Except for the stock one on my FM9B)

    Even with a 16" barrel it makes a difference, but it works better with a shorter barrel.

    And like Tony says, only use comps with vertical ports on a 9mm.

  12. On 9/8/2021 at 2:26 AM, CoreyScheel said:

    I finally made a video showing the workings of the buffer and how to install.  https://youtu.be/h5qTnU7ZaTs

    This is really interesting👍

     

    If I understand correctly there will be some play in the locked position (Up to one buffer tube thread)

    I would think that no play would be better, both for wear and function? but maybe it needs that play to get the speed of the bolt up before the rollers can disengage? 

     

    Is the blue bumper(?) part of the buffer, spring loaded?

     

    Will there be an A5 buffer tube version?

     

    Finally and most importantly, can you ship to Europe?🙂

     

     

     

     

  13. 3 hours ago, TheGoatMumbler said:

    Thanks. Pricey!

    You could always buy a 1/2" comp of your choice and have it re-drilled and tapped to 5/8".

     

    I bought my Armanov comp pretty cheap, with busted 1/2" threads,  and had it re-drilled and tapped to M14x1

     

     

  14. Didn't Trubl post about this some dags ago?

    But I can't find the thread now.

     

    I think this concept is very interesting...

    For a moving object (in this case the bolt) to slow down as softly as possible, an exponential braking force is the way to go. (The force increases as it nears the end of the stroke)

    It subjects the bolt to a lower maximum G force, and in my book that should translate to lower recoil if everything is correctly dimensioned. 

    I've been experimenting with opposing magnets to achieve this (together with a hydro buffer).

    But I think an air buffer has the potential to work even better...

     

    So at least in theory this should work better than a hydraulic buffer,

    Since they work the other way around, giving the maximum braking force when the speed is at it's highest (at the beginning of the  compression)

     

    If the difference really is noticeable remains to be seen...

    But my interest is piqued. 

     

     

  15. 1 hour ago, K-Tex said:

    Using a reaction rod is easier on the receiver.   It keeps the receiver from twisting/torquing.   Use some anti-seize on the receiver threads.

    It doesn't help against the barrel extension coming loose.

    Always use a barrel vise when you're loosening a muzzle device.

    Learn from my mistake.

  16. 1 hour ago, K-Tex said:

    It goes like this!   Receiver, barrel,shims then nut in that order.   So shims tighten between the extension and the barrel nut!

    Read what Kurtm wrote again.

    A barrel nut shim is only for indexing the barrelnut (and thereby some handguards)

  17. 11 minutes ago, K-Tex said:

    There are shims out there.   They are used for gas tube barrel nut timing.   When torquing the nut delta rings can misalign making the gas tube difficult too fit into the upper receiver.   The other without delta rings (barrel nuts with handguard screws) sometimes need too be shimmed for proper handguard alignment.   AR15 and AR10 use different size shims.   Check with a gunsmith and see if they have them in stock?

    The barrel nut shims are bigger, I needed a shim between the barrel extension and the barrel.

    But it's solved now anyway.

     

  18. 3 hours ago, slappyjack said:

    There is still no US imported for the Tigris Arms XR12 PRO, but found out from their Rep in Turkey that 250 were imported under the Orthus brand as xr12 pro , I found one yesterday in an Ohio gun store and it is en route. I will add to this thread after I get, clean. lube and get it to the range.  The are on the high end of the AD12 price range, but already have things added that would have set me back some more cash anyways. I also own the VR80, F12 and a couple others to compare it to.

    UTAS ORTHOS PRO AR 12 (2).jpg

    Cool! I look forward to hearing how it compares to the VR80 and F12.

    There is a separate Orthos thread, but maybe it should be merged with this one...?

     

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