R.Elliott
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Posts posted by R.Elliott
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I had four tanfos; 2 open and 2 standard. No cracked frames but very heavy lug peening in all cases with worst being the 38 SC open guns. Primary gun sheered the lugs right off with less than 15k rounds. All 4 guns also broke off the safety plunger pin. Also cracked compensators and pieces breaking off the comp sleeve. Rear sights that wouldn't stay together or hold a zero.
Loved the way they handled but man, they sure needed some better manufacturing process.
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If it's possible to set it up so that the pad of your trigger finger interfaces the face of the trigger at 90° to the axis of the trigger, I would imagine that to be as close to ideal as you can get. This would provide the least likely angle to deflect the trigger stroke by pressing off the corner, either inside or out side.
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Working with the guys at Adobe is more likely ;-)
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-18C right now in Burlington Ontario Canada. Feels relatively balmy compared to what it's been for the past couple of weeks.
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I field a lot of customer questions for a cast/plated bullet manufacturer outside of Toronto. The single biggest issue I've run into with customers who are experiencing accuracy problems (that are not skill related) with plated bullets is over-crimping. I don't think I've had a single instance were backing off on the taper crimp didn't fix the problem.
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Most side ports really just get the gas out of the comp chambers sooner. They can't really do anything to counteract rotational forces that are generated by the bullet traversing the bore. You could probably do better by opening one of your chambers up on the side that the gun rotates towards, so that gas is directed out in the direction of muzzle rise. It would require some experimentation though. Trouble is, it's difficult to ascertain whether the dot is deflecting due to gripping issues, powder choice, comp design, or even such things as recoil spring choice or firing pin stop angle. It all adds to the overall response. I think I would tend to stick with all ports vertical at first and do some work analyzing grip technique, loads, and spring combinations until those variables can be quantified. Then look at porting changes if you still aren't getting what you need. You can't put metal back once it's removed....
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Also one of my favorites: "If you're going to shoot, SHOOT! Don't talk."
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"They'll never hit anything from that dist......."
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Extractor tension for sure but it sounds more like an oal issue to me.
I have a Bedell as well and while I run 38 SC in it @1.235", you can feel the difference in the feed cycle as the oal approaches or exceeds 1.250. At 1.235" it cycles like butter whereas above 1.250 you can feel the bullet hit the ramp and retard the feed.
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Secret to not cracking the C-more at the windage screw:
Tighten the lock screw down till it's just snug. Now do your windage adjustments without unscrewing the locking screw (the windage screw will turn just fine). Once you have it dialed in, float some rubber cement in around the lock screw to prevent it from walking. This should hold everything in place and you can still adjust the sight again if you need to.
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You can adjust the trigger stirrup pretty easily using the frame as your forming tool.
Take the gun to pieces leaving only the trigger in the frame. Lock the frame in a soft jaw vice and using a long brass rod inserted from the back of the frame (where the beavertail sits) and a small hammer, gently tap the stirrup on both sides of the trigger insert (at the bend) to re-profile it. Work slowly and put the mag catch back in to test for mag clearance. Once you have it clearing all of your mags, you may have to dress the sides of the stirrup a bit for smoothness.
That should do it.
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If you want a really good, safe trigger, take it to a professional and get it done properly. It's worth the money.
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Dollarama. 357's, pack of 5 for $1.25. They last as long or longer than Duracell's.
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Good to hear. That's certainly the easier way to do it.
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Delete
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Delete. Multiple post, sorry.
I hate cell phones.
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Most of the powders (not Clays) are pretty much linear within their range of efficiency, so l'll generally load my first test rounds light and extrapolate once I have base-line chrono data.
Target power factor/actual power factor X charge weight in grains = charge weight to make target power factor.
Most of the time this will put you right on the money.
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That can happen easily. You just have to hold the assembly out of the way as you slide the grip on.
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Yes.
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Eliminate variables.
Check Extractor hook, check Extractor spring, clean Extractor channel, check ejector strike-point. Chrono loads
Is the empty case striking the lower wall of the ejection port? If so, it will bounce back up into the path of the closing slide.
Edited for autocorrect.
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HS6 should get you there with that setup. Rather than chasing the ultimate in flat though, you might be better off for now just working up a consistent load with the powder you have and then spend some time just getting used to the gun and its timing. It'll take a while to know if it will hold you back.
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Well, if you want flattest possible, convert to 9X25 or .357Sig.
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Are you saying to completely lock out your elbows R.Elliot?
No, extended but not locked.
Both ends of the scale: If the elbows are locked, recoil energy goes to the wrists and the shoulders whereas if they are bent too much, the gun will bounce more and the tendency to pull the gun down to control recoil will be exacerbated. It's not a hard number or anything; you just have to observe what's happening with the gun in recoil and tweak your position to get the best overall result.
Some good starting points:
The natural-hang position of the arm, or the elbow extension you get when you let your arm hang loosely at your side.
Or...
Push the gun out to full lock-out (elbows fully extended), then just let the arms relax a bit and lock that position down.
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Another approach:
Start with gun mounted on target (dry fire) and dot aligned between your chosen impact point and your master eye. Now without taking your eyes off the aiming point, slowly drag the gun straight back down to the holster and holster it. Let your weak hand peel off the gun when it feels like it needs to. Your strong hand is now gripping the gun in the holster and your weak hand is now at the receiving position on your upper belly. Now do the same thing in reverse, again slowly, focusing on taking the gun straight from the holster to the full mount position. At first you may have to make small micro-adjustments as you move the gun along its path but after a few dozen reps you'll start to carve the line in pretty well.
You can also cut out a piece of black card and tape it to the muzzle side of the C-More lens. This will of course occlude the view through the lens, giving you the equivalent of a reflex sight, which will force yourself to keep your focus on the target rather than the dot. Looking past the sight with it interposed in your eye line, you will be aware of the dot settling in on the target without having to focus on it. This is a very good trick and it works pretty quickly.
Good luck.
R
Grease (slide-glide) vs Oil - which is less clean-up?
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted · Edited by R.Elliott
Almost any oil will work. Grease works but if you do high round counts between cleanings you'll get a carbon build-up (lapping compound) that can accelerate wear.
I recently tried Fire-clean and like it a lot. As advertised, it does in fact make cleaning quite a bit easier.
My go-to if I'm out of that is Mobile 1 10W30.
Eta: I do like Slide-Guide on the sear/hammer interface.