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Stjs45

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Everything posted by Stjs45

  1. Well I contacted CZ first thing this morning as most would have. They told me if I used any compound or polished anything my self it would void the warranty. Im sure I can get it to be looser, but just afraid I'm going to run into some of the other issues that came up when searching for the "sticky slide" threads and will not cover. Ill tell you this much. I can take the barrel and spring out, put the slide on the frame, just hold the slide and the frame will not fall off. I can even tap the frame and shake it and it will not budge. I understand it's not my Atlas but C'mon. So I goes I have to wait a month to a month an half to get a simple polish. Im am wanting to shoot a decreased main spring and recoil spring for my barely legal PF loads and with out a good polish that slide will not budge an inch! Thanx for the info.
  2. The ammo I'm using is SAMMI spec factory box ammo. The gun is very hard to even charge the slide back. I took the barrel and the spring off and the slide does not slide easily of the frame. The slide can stick a quarter charged back and can shake it and tap it and it will not move. After some looking into this further for the last two hours, it seems like the channels in the Fram between the trigger and the sear housing has the black finish "Cerakote" (I know its not Cerakote) making it catch in the back area.
  3. As the title states, I just purchased a brand new TSO that will not even load a round out of the magazine. I shot 200 rounds thinking I needed to brad it in but have to push the slide into battery 2/3 shots. I have read to get + 10% magazine brings , apply compound and run the slide, polish the area where it binds at, etc... but the reality you would think a company that just got valued at $220 million would have a half ass decent quality control process. I say this as I own two other CZ one of them being Fire4Effect Shadow 2 that is smooth as butter. Sorry for the rant, just don't know what and how to fix it other than sending the new gun back to CZ for repair. With that being said,. what spring would be recommended to start with to shoot a 125PF 9mm round. I will be adding a SRO and an optics plate to the slide. Thank you and sorry for bitchin.
  4. Bill, Your the Man. 10.5.2 is it. Not that I want to go challenge the local club or go against their practices, but now I can take about it with out speculating. Thanx!
  5. Im not trying to be combative at all BTW. Im sure you have much more knowledge about this than I do. That why I'm asking for the book, to get educated.
  6. That at all is not at all how the clubs around here run their matches. Its called a dry table for a reason. No ammo at the table period. On you, on your belt, loose or in your hand. Dont know what the "book" says, but at least here they run it that way. It makes sense California would be different. Do you know the sub chapter where it identifies you can have ammo at the table?
  7. I use 5 gallon buckets also. Lowes for my blue atlas Major brass. and Homedopot orange for my CO and minor loads.
  8. Watch this video!!!! It explains and charts the difference from all the different primers. Best testing around!!!
  9. Are there ever any group buys with them?
  10. I shoot a lot of PRS locally and make the two day "national" shots. I think you get this toxic crap in every sport and every practice. Its not just PRS. I have shot a couple USPS where the squad leader had complete double standard and even made excuses why he could be at the "safe" table with a belt full of ammo and mess with his gun. The winner of that shoot was for ZERO dollars and people just as sweaty for the notoriety!! Just saying that crap is everywhere. some places more than other but you can't blame the establishment, unless its SNIPERSHIDE!!!
  11. I have a 6.5 PRC barrel and have ran a good amount of rounds through it. At first I wasn't sure I like it until I found the bullet it wanted to shoot. I have beaten it up in Alaska, rain, caribou hunt and sheep and it has held 1/4 minute of angle with any hundred rounds. I honestly don't think there's a difference between carbon or steel once you find the load it wants.
  12. Oh also. do your self a favor and get you one of these electronic air dusters. Will save you money in the long run!!! https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QvGQPMNTKvPmLmhe0890H1MAAAF3ltUUpgEAAAH2AbbOvzs/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4QJ78C?pd_rd_i=B07W4QJ78C&pd_rd_w=rZsAj&pf_rd_p=2e62cf0a-1323-46ac-bbb9-19dc851997c6&pd_rd_wg=v10Jt&pf_rd_r=XDV8KNEFF0ADDDANZ13Q&pd_rd_r=38b6d910-a8fd-4c63-bb9f-bb9f8bd412b7
  13. For sure man. Its a bad machine and once you take the time to set up it runs like a champ. I say also get familiar with it. Don't be afraid to take the shell plate off as you will need to clean it once you have a major powder spillage. The machine is so well engineered and over built that a couple of grain of powder can stop the priming or indexing. They have some very good videos they can send you a drop box link to that goes over every breakdown and cleaning of all parts. Mark 7 has a really good Customer Support, ask to speak to Misty Kapke!!!
  14. +1 for the FX120i. I know it’s way over kill for what he wants or needs. But I never planned on using anything other than a charge master. Thought it was sufficient enough and now use it for my ELR rifle and soon to be FClass rig. Buy once cry once. Besides it will always have value. Promise if he posts it here or accurateshooter it sill be sold with in couple days.
  15. I actually have experience with that machine, the TNT die as well as the Lee under sized die. PICTURE ATTACHED. I highly recommend you use One shot. I have tried the Dillon, super gunky and sticky, I don't want to do chemistry and cut lubes and have to pour into sprayer so or bottles. Spray one shot into a big ziplock bag with the case on there. shake them up and throw into a container to let dry. wait 15 minutes before loading. it will make your machine run smoother and keep it from "jerking" I will also agree with NXFED that the lees run just as good on that high end of a machine. Because it was three different ways to index you don't run into the issue that you do with a 650, 750 and a bit on the 1050 where the non taper die bottom like the Dillon will crush cases from time to time if they are not perfectly aligned with the die. If you look at my picture I run Mighty on my Open Pistol and run Lee for my Steel gun and to be honest with you the cheaper Lee sometimes produce more consistent numbers than the fancy Mighty. After much running and help from Mark 7. I will absolutely suggest you put a top and bottom dwell on what ever speed you set it up at AND!!!! and you set you seating and powder drop at the speed where you are going to load. The powder drop will NEED the dweel to dispense Open Pistol loads fully and re fill. If you change the speed it will most freeing definitely change the powder dispense charge and seating depth. So don't set it up and running it down then up. Set it up by doing a complete stroke at the proper speed. Hope it helps. PM me if you have any questions. IMG_0163.HEIC
  16. Wont see a difference unless you are shooting off a rest, at long distances, and group by primers. Most shooters will have more human error running and shooting that what you can tell in two different brand primer
  17. I dang sure did. Rowdy is beyond knowledgable and can actually translate it to a teaching. Highly recommend. Lets get together soon man. Ill hit you up after this cold front crap!
  18. Btw. WAC was dirty, and felt snappier at 1120 fps ( 5.9 gran) @129pf than the Titegroup (3.9grn) at 1060 and 122pf. Titegroup would come back down to zero, while WAC pulled the dot off the top. both did not run 100%. The slide is not opening up all the way making the round get stuck and not going back into battery. I need to either drop a spring size to a 6# or add .2 grains of powder. As of now I’m going to run Titegroup as well as try to MG bullets, see if that changes anything.
  19. I tried Shooters World Major Pistol as I use it for my Major gun thinking I could get more gas out of it but it was very dirty and would not even load the bullet property there was soo much "corn flakes" in the chamber. It was ridiculously slow. got like 400fps out of 3.5 gn and 650 out of 3.8. I figured a slow powder was not burning right with such small load. I shoot coated bullets because I wanted something different than my major gun. I didn't want to ever mix them and shoot major in minor or vise versa. I have WAC and could definitely try it. What grains would you recommend? Would you still change to 7# spring to a 6# to get a lighter load?
  20. I know its a screwy question, but I have many times wondered what the proper load development should be! The questions is: I have a STI Steel and was hoping to shoot around 1,000 FPS. I loaded the ammo for 950 , 1000 , 1050 , 1075. Pushing 115 Blue bullets and Titegroup. Obviously 950 felt amazing but would not cycle reliable, not even close. When I say reliable I mean, a few didn't get fully ejected and stuck between slide and sight block. 1050 was the most reliable although still had one not fully ejected. 1075 was perfect 25 for 25. Should I set the desired FPS (recoil) and play with springs, slide cuts, breaking gun it, etc... or just suck it up and shoot what the "stock" pistol will cycle efficiently the way the manufacture intended it? **STEEL CHALLENGE ONLY
  21. Luckily I do not have a limit at my local club. I am thinking to gettin get gun around 110 PF to 115 PF with my 115 Blue Bullets. I shot some low recoil Phoenix ammo through my Major Open gun and it felt like tiny baby farts. they were rated at 950fps which led me to believe that a low FPS round with the gassiest powder would be the best, lightest recoiling power/ bullet combination. I understand that the comp at that speed/PF is not used much, but I figured if that "gassy" powder helps only 5% or 10% of its capacity its still better than nothing. I guess I just have to try and find out.
  22. So we know how well Major Pistol meters. We know how flat it shoots, as well as how well it works the comp with the amount of gas. We know Itsaffordable and pretty accessible. Why not shoot it on my STI DVC Steel. I know the comp is barely used shooting minor out of a comp'ed gun. But if Major Pistol is so "gassy" why wouldn't it work for minor and STEEL, even if only 10% of the comp is used why not use its advantages. Am I seeing this wrong?? Is there a reason not to use a powder for Minor OPEN like the famous HS6, or 3N38, or Major Pistol for a Steel round on a Open Comp'ed set up?
  23. Sorry for specifying the brand. Looking for the one that rhymes with Pass Pedal.
  24. Could someone point me in the direction of a *thumb rest [generic]* for a STI Steel. Ideally silver color. Gold or black will do. Thanx
  25. Alright, I ask this with out yet trying the Arredondo slide, all inquiry / ZERO bashing. I recently purchased a Arredondo slide as I shoot Shooters World Major Pistol powder and have notices some powder though out press components and shell plate. The reality is that I do not mind it as it not much and every three hundred rounds I air can blow it off. My real desire was to drop the .04 - .14 grain spreads I constantly get. I know +/- .1 grain it can be standard but coming from a precision rifle world I would like to attempt to achieve a bit tighter consistency meaning better ES and SD. My new Arredondo powder slide seems of a lesser grade and quite honestly a bit flimsy. AGAIN I have not tried it and everything I have researched say they are great. Before I break down a not broken process, what makes them better that the "metal" Dillon slides?? The slide component inside the Arredondo is threaded and seems a lot easier to drift/give that the harder metal ones. Thanx Y'all!
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