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radny97

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Posts posted by radny97

  1. Fellow witness hunter owner here. This is why the hunter frame from the factory has threaded holes in the frame (rather than the slide) for mounting an optic.


    CZ pattern guns like Tanfos have slides with lower mass than many other guns due to the rails riding inside rather than outside the frame. This means you get the low bore axis, and lower reciprocating mass in the slide that make CZs such smooth shooters. It also means that the lighter slide reciprocates much faster. 
    But when you add a slide mounted optic, then that fast moving slide can really slam hard back and forth and eventually shear and break your mount screws. It sounds to me like that’s what you have going on here. 


    The surest solution is to ditch the slide mounted optic and go to a frame mounted optic. It’s bulkier and maybe doesn’t have the cool factor, but it’s actually more accurate, and the tanfo hunter is a big gun anyway, so I’m guessing this thing isn’t your edc and slightly bigger won’t matter too much. 

    Alternatively you can try to get some heat treated screws that are stronger, if you can find them and assuming the heat treating doesn’t make them too brittle. You could also install a much heavier recoil spring to slow down the slide and tune the gun to not slam back and forth too hard. Doing this, however, will require a lot of experimentation and will make the gun ammo picky.
     

    Final note. Mounting optics on the slides of 10mm guns is still something in its infancy. 10mm is a hot round and will bang up the mounts and optics more than other calibers. You may just be experiencing the growing pains of an area not many manufacturers have figured out yet. Optic ready 10mm guns have only been mainstream for about a year at this point. I’ve already heard anecdotes of other 10mm guns breaking their optic mount screws with frequency, so this isn’t an isolated problem related to a Tanfo. 
     

    Good luck. 

  2. On 4/10/2023 at 10:19 AM, pbcaster45 said:

    RS Competition is pretty good in my Colt Diamondback too!

     

    Bullet:  Missouri Bullet Company 105 gr. TCFP (.358 with Hi-Tek coating)

    Powder:  Ramshot Competition 3.3 grs.

    Primer:  Federal 100

    Case:  Federal

    OAL:  1.450

    Avg. Vel.:  857 fps

    ES:  22

    SD:  8

     

     

    Colt Diamondback .38 Special.jpg

    Nice gun

  3. 17 hours ago, varminter22 said:

    I understand that!  

     

    But if that is true (and I saw your SAAMI ref), why aren't ammo manufactures (and us handloaders) loading all .38 Spec/.357 Mag/etc ammo with .355"/.356" bullets?  

     

    I also understand that barrels can and do vary, but they should be with the .0004" or .0005" tolerance, correct?  And barrels can vary a little in bullet preference.  But a .358" bullet in a .3546" barrel??  Interesting.  

     

    Said another way:  Since you said "SAAMI defines the standards, and companies build their products around them" why wouldn't the standard bullet diameter for both calibers be .355"/.356"? 

     

    16 hours ago, superdude said:

     

    There is no such thing as a 38/357 barrel and a separate 9mm barrel. They both have the exact same specs. 

     

    If you buy a 38/357 revolver and the barrel groove diameter measures .355", does that mean it has a 9mm barrel?  No, it doesn't. That's because .355 is within the SAAMI specs for a 38/357 barrel. It's still a 38/357 barrel. 

    Not true. 357 mag barrels have 1/18 twist while 9mm barrels have 1/10 twist. 

  4. 7 minutes ago, Bill Sahlberg said:

    Since 1997 I have shot 38 Colt Short with 130 gr Montana Gold RN with 4.6 gr of Universal Clay's at 1.100" at 1050 fps (136 PF) I can shoot 1000 rnds before even swabbing the cylinder of my 627 5" bbl.

     

    I bought a new 929 when they 1st came out and returned it to S&W to fix both the timing arm and to clean up the chatter marks in the Ti cylinder. Still bad so I sold it & bought a latter version used with lots of smithing work but still had troubles and sold it...

     

    The extra 1.5" of barrel length over my 627 5" never was worth all the hassels and down time.

     

    My Starline 38 Colt Short has been reloaded 20+ times and never difficult in the reloads even though it is a straight walled case. Ask others but the 627 is not problematic as the 629 is.

     

    Reliability is the name of the game and my 627 has 100,000 rnds without ever going back to S&W and still shoots a small group...


    Agreed. The 929 was a good idea that was poorly executed. The 627 is the way to go. 

  5. Fiocchi primers are excellent. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them. Ginex primers have shot well for me and always pop, but they are very hard to seat in mixed 9mm brass. I sometimes get high primers that didn’t fully seat when running them through a progressive press. 

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