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xjwalt666

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Everything posted by xjwalt666

  1. I saw that too on my computer but it works on my phone. The google search says temporarily closed but he was able to order them this morning.
  2. Check out Neumount. My dad bought one from him for his DWX and just ordered 2 more for a couple shadow 2's. An old buddy of mine used one on an original P226 X-Five and loved it.
  3. When I've had grouping issues, one of the guns the mount screws on the frame were loose enough to allow the mount to move up and down on recoil. The other time the barrel was chambered deeper than the ammo was. I stretched out the ammo from 1.110" to 1.170" and the grouping tightened up. Other than that I'd agree with the above and check the barrel link contact.
  4. I ended up trying out swapping the hammer from my 617 into his. Checked sear engagement with the side plate off and everything moved smoothly. Put it all back together and it cycles nice and smooth. So I guess I'm going to order a new hammer for him and hopefully get this thing up and running like it should again. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
  5. I’m going to give this a go tonite and see what happens.
  6. I just tried this again with the strain screw barely tightened to not put too much pressure on the pins. I can visually see the sear "bump" the hammer as you say right as it hits the "wall". So I would assume that would mean that either the hammer or trigger or both are either out of spec or one of the pins are bent. Now my question is, would it be acceptable practice to swap out another hammer and sear from a known good 617 to experiment just for testing purposes with dry fire only? Or should I just have him get a new set fitted?
  7. I tried this method of dry firing with the cylinder open and the problem persists. So I assume it is something within the internals. I guess back to S&W it goes. I am not comfortable with doing anything further with this one. Thanks for the advice. I am going to try a different main spring as mentioned above to see if it may be a spring issue.
  8. To add, when pulling the trigger to stage it for the next shot, at about 1/4 pull it hits the wall. There is no slowly pulling it to the break it just snaps by and drops the hammer. I’m going to try to get a video of it this afternoon and find a site to host it on and link it here.
  9. Was thinking it probably has something to do with the hand but I can honestly say I would have no clue where to start with that. It is a ten shot and it’s a newer model with the lock. Everything else that I’ve looked at checks out fine. The hand does have a narrow area at the top and where it engages the cylinder does have some what looks to me like abnormal wear. I may suggest that he send it to S&W or find a good revo guy around our area to check with.
  10. I'm working on a friends 617 just doing the normal polish and cleaning up the internals to smooth out the trigger a bit. Before doing any work to it the trigger has an extremely hard break. When pulling the trigger as soon as the cylinder stop moves down the cylinder snaps to the next position. When it does this the trigger feels like its hitting a wall. If you back the strain screw way out it cycles thru just fine. I've gone thru and checked everything and there is nothing binding when there is no spring pressure. But as soon as the screw is turned in it starts to get hard to pull again. Single action has no issue and when you pull the hammer back manually there is no binding or anything. Everything appears to be lined up properly. The cylinder spins free and doesn't bind at all when the internals are removed. Now I'm kind of stuck. I've worked on quite a few smiths including 4 or 5 617's and have never encountered this problem. Any ideas before I have him send it back to S&W or to a good revo smith?
  11. You'll have to venture to the eastern side of the state. Sprague Rod and Gun holds pin shoots first and third Sunday of the month all year outside. And if theres a fifth Sunday we do rimfire pin tops.
  12. I shoot with Squirrel45 and also use a v comp for pins. 230gr bear creak with 6.7 gr of blue dot. Makes about 207PF and clears them off the table no problem. We have 5 pins in a V on a 3x4 foot table and have no issues clearing them even when they get heavy.
  13. That’s exactly what was happening when the mount loosened up. But if it’s all tight then obviously not the issue
  14. Check the screws that hold the dot mount to the frame. I had the exact same issue with my sons open gun and the screws loosened up a bit and the mount was rocking.
  15. You could try Rob at RSU Arms in Texas. He built me one last year and pretty much took what I drew on a piece of paper and built it using all the parts I wanted and used his frame. All slide cuts were my design and it came out perfect.
  16. I picked up a used open gun for my son to start shooting and it was setup the same way with a 6" Tribrid barrel like that one in 38sc. I ended up buying another one and chambering for 9mm and fit it and it shoots incredibly with both barrels. From what I was told, when those barrels first came out they were designed for major loads for open guns and they did an awesome job on the design.
  17. I've had one on my V-comp for almost 2 years and never had a bullet strike on it. Like Toolguy said, use plenty of blue loctite and you shouldn't have an issue with the screw loosening up. And the screw still comes out easy enough with just a standard allen wrench.
  18. Thanks all, I have never run a powder check before either so I'm not really sure why it concerns me now. I'm only going to be loading major pf ammo on this press so obviously the cases will be pretty full that I should be able to tell by eye if its close at least. I just see a lot of people use the powder check and was curious how the seat/crimp dies do for consistency.
  19. What is everyones take on repeatability with seat/crimp dies? I just picked up a super 1050 and want to be able to run a bullet feeder and powder check and will need to go to a seat/crimp die. I've seen people that love them and that hate them. Is there one that is better than others? Or should i just keep an eye on the powder level in the cases while loading and keep the dies separate?
  20. Thanks all for the suggestion of the grip screw being too long. That was indeed the issue. Got it all sorted out now.
  21. Never thought to check this. I will tomorrow. Going to check this tomorrow after work.
  22. I did double check both of those. The strange thing is the grip that fits is the same grip just without the big butt.
  23. I just got a new to me 625-8. I did my normal pull apart and clean and polish. I wasn't a fan of the grip so I tried to swap on a Hogue big butt rubber grip and it doesn't fit. It's an N frame round butt conversion grip and should fit as its listed on the compatibility chart. However where the grip meets the wider part of the frame it tilts forward when tightened up and seems like it has some back and forth play. I didn't think to take any pics and just swapped for a smooth Hogue rubber grip. But was curious if anyone else has run into this issue before. Same grip fits my 617 and 627 just fine. Is there something I'm missing? If needed I can swap it back on and take some pics.
  24. I always read and hear that 231 is better loaded towards the high end or else it doesn't burn all the powder completely. That's what I started doing and it keeps my revo much cleaner.
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