Sean Gaines

I am at 1.135 oal, with Titegroup. I would use a cleaner powder, but there really no point with a glock. Unless the smoke bothers you. Its cheap, and it goes bang. If I was going to shoot it out of a 1911, s_i, I would definatly consdier using vv320 or an equivalent cleaner powder. I would also recomend getting a aftermarket barrel Like KKM (1st choice) or a Bar sto barrel, because of the support issue.

great success using Lee dies, especially the "U" die and factory crimp die. But be sure to use dillon lock rings for the dies, Lee's are useless to me. Pk

6.5x55 is made in Sweeden, Its a very accurate round. Probably one of the more accuate rifles I have shot. Well I guess the only 6.5 I have ever shot was the Swedish mauser. But I have never heard of a 6.5 in a semi before. Hmm do you have any pictures.

in order for it to break, I would think something would have to hit it, which you say you have a blast shield. Or the heat of the gun could possibly do something, but I doubt it. Or the lens could have just been defective. I would like to help, but I am puzzled. I am not familiar with an sjc mount is that one that mounts to the light rail, or the the slide?

my cv 500 motor lasted 6 months, then started acting up, just like you stated in your post. The tumbler would run fine, then it would start to slow down. Called Dillon and they told me to send it in. They fixed that problem, but now the on/off switch works when it wants to, and its kinda frustrating. probably a loose wire somewhere.

Happy Birthday Lee Dee

First, is precision delta the same as precision bullets? Second, just a little confused, but aren't your PF's backwards? I have been using WSP, is there an advantage to federal primers? Will 1.197 OAL run in a G22? Or do I need to keep those shorter? Does anyone know the PF of factory ammo such as WWB .40 target/range ammo? Does it make major, and what if any, is the difference in recoil between major PF ammo, and factory ammo? Is one hotter than the other? wwb is high, 180ish Precision delta is not the same as precision bullets. Your oal is way to long and you wont be able to load very many, if any. I would reccomend in the neighborhood of 1.135 advantages to federal primers, is they are softer, and if you are using an RS trigger kit or some sort of lightend trigger, where you may exprience light primer strikes, you may want to switch to the softer federals. I would also reccomend getting an aftermarket barrel, preferably a kkm barrel hope this helps

It might be easier just to call Smith and Wesson directly, and ask them.

check the primers and see if they are consistent with the headstamp. this will allow you to tell if the stuff has been reloaded or not. Also some brass that has been fired through glock factory barrels will cause casses excess bulging, some barrels more than others, I have found. If I were you I would go with the Lee "U" die for the first station and a factory crimp die, for the last station, and that should get you going on the right track. But remember to always barrel gauge your rounds, especially the ones you are going to shoot at matches. Practice rounds, not so important. because it can be a pain to barrel gauge 1k rounds just for a practice session. Hope this helps PK

Sorry about that guys, it was a disturbing photo. Deleted it from post Thanks Shred Pk

This is the type of setup you need to get if you want to go hog hunting in Texas. These Hogs didn't have a chance.

I haven't tried it yet but I am gathering that the nickel brass doesn't have as much dot movement? Is that what you are getting at. I don't see how brass or nickel would make that much of a difference in recoil or dot movement. Has anyone else experienced the same thing?

Yes you could get a used Para Ordnance P16-40. That will give you lots of rounds. A friend of mine is getting 21 rds + 1 in the pipe. but in this sport .40 cal is the way to go. You get more rounds, and its easier on the budget.

Price? Is there cheaper brass thats equivalant

maybe see if you can get the owner to seller finance, with less money down, and a lower interest rate. Also you may consider haggling down 1k per acre, which would give you a little more oprerating money. Or make the owner a partner, if he is interested. another option is to buy the 60 acres with your bank granted everything seems high even though its not. With raw land or ag land, lenders tend to give higher rates than you would expect. Alot of people get discouraged because they compare the rates on their homes to land. Two different animals. Once you buy the land you could raise the price and sell lets say 10 acres to someone at a profit to offset the cost of your land purchase. People tend to pay more for smaller tracts, because there are more of them and they are more affordable and manageable. Its like anything when you buy in bulk you get a better price, when you buy in smaller quantaties, you pay more.Not too many people can afford 200-300k for just land. You may also want to look at other tracts of land in the area. You may also look into buying alot larger piece of land and subdividing it to pay for the range free and clear. thats what I would do, personally.there all kinds of ways to skin a cat you just have to find the right one. I agree that if you build a first class facility you could feasibly recive more money in memberships Hope it works out PK

As far as sound is concerned there shouldn't be a problem at all unless your muzzle is right up to the microphone. As far as splatter from Steel, it could happen. Sometimes when I tape myself and the camcorder is close to the steel, I usually put something in front of it, so if lead comes back it hits the object in front. I have used multiple targets in front, just for splatter. A word of advice when you video your practices, use the remote and frequently turn off when you are not shooting. If not you will tape alot of unwanted info, and two to save your battery and three so that you dont run out of tape. But just be sure to turn it on when you start shooting. make it the job of the person with the timer. Another thing you may also want to do is talk into the camera, after you shoot, so that you can record what you did. Example draws, just tell the camera .78 draw. It just helps instead of writting it all down, you can review it later and if you want you can write it down. Hope this helps Sean

what kind of feeding problems? I load to 1.25 zero hp

when you polish your brass using a cement mixer, you could be a shooter..

I wouldn't reccomend it. A 9mm is at .355, and 38 special is at .357 diameter. Really looks like a small amount, but wouldn't take the chance.

I've broke the big pin that holds the trigger in place before. Was still able to shoot the match with it, in fact didn't realize it, until I went home and was going to clean the gun and there it was broke right there at the first notch, where the slide stop rests. I have also broke the trigger return spring. It was a wolf spring. Part of thier competition trigger pack, which has a nice trigger pull, but I have broke one, and a friend has broke another. so I went back to the factory trigger return spring. Unfortuantly I was only able to get my trigger down to 4.5lbs, with no pre travel, by pinning the trigger housing. As far as the striker, have not broke the tip, and its been tens of thousand of rounds. Maybe just lucky. As far as bending the arm; Do you have any pics that you can put on the web here. And are you using the factory spring? I also see that people are relocating the trigger return spring hole also, could someone post a pic of that also. I would very much like to upgrade my trigger pull. I could use all the help I can from you knowledgeable BENOS crowd. Thanks PK I've broke the big pin that holds the trigger in place before. Was still able to shoot the match with it, in fact didn't realize it, until I went home and was going to clean the gun and there it was broke right there at the first notch, where the slide stop rests. I have also broke the trigger return spring. It was a wolf spring. Part of thier competition trigger pack, which has a nice trigger pull, but I have broke one, and a friend has broke another. so I went back to the factory trigger return spring. Unfortuantly I was only able to get my trigger down to 4.5lbs, with no pre travel, by pinning the trigger housing. As far as the striker, have not broke the tip, and its been tens of thousand of rounds. Maybe just lucky. I just went to glockmeister and bough almost every single part that moves or bends, that could break and stuck in a fishing lure clear platic box. I think I spent a little over $100. But it is a good little piece of insurance. As far as bending the arm; Do you have any pics that you can put on the web here. And are you using the factory spring? I also see that people are relocating the trigger return spring hole also, could someone post a pic of that also. I would very much like to upgrade my trigger pull. I could use all the help I can from you knowledgeable BENOS crowd. Thanks PK

the problem with shooting hogs, if you dont kill them with a good well placed shot. Well they cry like a human baby, and its the worse sounding thing you want to ever hear. I would go for something a little more stout. Like you said some of the hogs here in TX can get pretty big. If your looking for good eating hogs, go for the 40-60lbs hogs. remember hogs weigh alot more than they look. If you are trying to eradicate them because they are tearing up your land. I would say use like a Socom or FAL, something with some punch, maybe even a 30-30 up close.

Yeah Manny is teaching some shooters here in Houston, and I have heard nothing but good things about his classes. I got a chance to meet him at a local match here and at the Space City Challenge. Seems to be a very personable guy who really cares about his students. If I were to take an advanced practical shooting class, I am positive it would be from him.

You know you are a shooter when you tumble your brass by the 10's of thousands...:0

depending on the magazine size of the guns you are talking about. But in a glock 34 I load my 9mm to 1.150 oal and they are fine.

that was my first thought because your load sounds ok. I would probably go to 1.135 on your oal. check your crimp. The farther the bullet is in the case the more pressure will develop. I guess your lucky that you didn't have any bodily harm,just your barrel was damaged and a few easily replaceable parts. Other things you probably want to do: get the Kkm barrel inspect your brass before it goes to your loading press. Since the brass is the weakest link in the bullet. Also look for various headstamps, use Federal(not FC),winchester, RP, CBC When inspecting brass look for imperfections, deep scratches in cases, peened looking brass(looks like someone took a punch and put a deep circular dent in the case)Dark stained brown looking color anything that looks suspect or if you have to think about it when inspecting gets trashed. As far as that batch of bullets I would trash them or take them apart and reuse them if you can Sorry to hear about that good luck in the future PK