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Ok. That's what I've been reading so far. And thank you for the clarification. Previously you've said that a TSO conversion to 9 major requires cutting the dust cover back (and the ATF variance that comes along with it). But is there a way to avoid this? I.e. can the compensator be contained in the dust cover?

I'm thinking of getting a Shadow 2 to use as a platform to build an Open gun off of. But I'm having a hard time finding out where to get a compensator and threaded barrel. For those more knowledgeable than me, would this even be possible? I'm also wondering if people have had the same 9 major cracking issues that the 2011 folks have faced. Specifically, the slide.

So does that mean an open top end can drop in to a TSO frame? Also where does one even get open top ends? I am in a similar boat to the OP and have heard that CZs are notoriously hard to get just the slides for them.

I know this might be a big ask, but do you have any pictures that show how clear or bright the triangle is? I ask because I want to see how sharp the tip is for aiming purposes. The way I see it, I think this is very similar to how many people run a fiber optic front sight and use the top of the post for precision in longer targets but otherwise adopt a 'hammer-down-when-fiber's-on-target' strategy in closer targets.

I know this subject has been beat to death already, but what are people's opinions on the 7.5 MOA deltapoint pro for CO? I've shot with a 3 MOA dot on a glock before, but only in a semi indoor shooting bay at night. I'm interested in experimenting with the deltapoint because the big triangle seems to be popular for both speed (i.e. paint closer targets w/ the triangle and just go) as well as having an ability for precision with the top of the triangle.

I'm in the same boat as you, shadow 2, stock sights. I'm tempted to get a few more widths from Dawson and then experiment on going wider. A wider front sight moves the iron sights to a much more binary aligned/not-aligned indicator system from the finer control that a much thinner sight blade offers. For me, I suspect that I am over aiming many times and this may help.

Yeah, but I'd be shooting minor. And that doesn't appeal to me due to the scoring handicap.

Ah, yes. I forgot to mention that this was in regards to production. Thanks for the clarification.

I apologize since I've tried searching and I can't find a clear answer, but is the Bull Shadow legal for USPSA because it is considered a variation using OFM parts of the original Shadow? Would putting a bull shadow upper on a shadow 2 be non-kosher?

I believe the SP01 has a firing pin block which the tanfos do not. I'm not sure, though. Also, the Tanfos are definitely heavier. Before the Shadow 2 came about, the Tanfos were the heaviest production guns.

Would it be a huge difference to switch back and forth?

Do you notice a big difference when you switch back and forth between your Shadow 2 and the Shadow? I'm debating on whether to get a Shadow to set up for CO or whether to modify my Shadow 2.

Sorry to necro this thread, but how much did it cost for CGW to machine your slide? And did you need to refinish it?

I'm roughly 2500 rounds in. I do like it. I think that the new disconnector is just as reliable as my previously hand fit disconnector. In addition, The reach reduction is small but significant, at least for me.

I'm planning on shooting my first major in a few months and was wondering what are some key items to have as spare parts. The round count by then will be around 6k on my shadow 2. Firing pin? Extractor? I'm not sure if there are specific items that should be just kept in my bag because they are likely to fail?

I'm wondering if I need a special holder for the Manson 9mm reamer. Trying to finish reaming a short chambered barrel and realized that I'm unsure as to whether there is an optimal tool for turning the reamer. Would a regular T handle with a 1/4" slot do?

I only cleaned the gun when I started to have the gun slipping from SA to DA. Turns out it was a combination of caked powder (I shoot Titegroup which is very smoky) and some debris. That being said, I'll probably clean it before major matches even if just for peace of mind.

I believe I have the 11lbs mainspring in right now, but I have put about 1k rounds through the gun and had no issue. I have the Cajun extended firing pin, though, so I suspect that is helping as well.

Ok thank you. I'll go that route.

With respect to the barrel hump and 7-5 o clock area or the whole fitting? I.e. leave the slide alone and take material off from the rear of the comp.

Zzt. Thank you for the info. I had actually been worried about the .695 to slide clearance and had been thinking I would certainly need to relieve the lower half of the barrel opening (in the 5 to 7 o clock range as you mentioned). As for the rear of the barrel hump, I believe I've already done just enough so that the barrel can indeed fit into the slide. But I haven't gone and started filing on the hood to fit it to the breech face and allow lockup. Or is there something I'm missing here? Edit: As for the rest of your procedure, I agree that this is probably what I would do. Essentially, going slow with constant measurement and test fitting.

40 thousandths is about how much I need to change as well. And yes. I'm kind of stumped on how to do it without a mill. I'm thinking scribing the 1 degree angle on the side and then using a stone/file to achieve it. My current plan of attack is: 1) take off 40 thousandths to have the lugs reach the barrel lugs 2) fit the barrel hood and then the lugs for good lug engagement . 3) once the lugs are sorted, I can file the 1 degree angle at the front of the slide to accommodate barrel tilt. 4) cut the lugs to fit the slide stop. Alternatively, is there a problem if I take off more than 40 thousandths so that the gap is large enough that even if the barrel tilts, it does not contact the flat, unangled, face? Would it merely be a cosmetic issue of there being a large gap, or would there be functional issues, too?

Ah ok. Yes that would make sense. I've been researching and have heard similar.

Any particular method you used? I unfortunately don't have access to a mill.

I'm currently building using an STI Trubor blank on a JEM slide and frame. I'm just starting out and have been taking measurements and have come up against a bit of a conundrum. The distance from the front of the hood to the rear of the compensator blank on the barrel is 3.552". The distance from the front of the hood to the front on the slide is 3.592. The question is, do I shorten the compensator blank (from the rear) by at least 0.040" or would it be better for me to shorten the slide from the front by at least 0.040"? I'm inclined to shorten the slide rather than the barrel by sanding it on a piece of sandpaper taped to a ceramic tile. But I'm wondering if that will cause some serious problems/issues. Some changes that it would cause, off the top of my head, are: 1) A bushing may no longer fit on this slide since the distance between the bushing key slot and the front of the slide is shorter. But then again, I was not planning on running a bushing on this slide anyway. 2) A plug would have to be shortened to have the front be flush with the slide. In terms of barrel/slide clearance, I don't think anything changes radically since this barrel has a constant diameter of 0.695 for its entire length. But would I be better off shortening the compensator blank from the rear?