Broncman

Looks like an Ed Brown memory groove. There is 2 versions of that safety. A cheaper MIM cast type and a fully machined. My cheaper one looked like that and I had to do some blending, but it is fully functional.

I built my own 9Major 2011. Had a lot of problems till I got the ejector and extractor right. I do NOT run a 90 degree mount, but it is offset. I had problems with STI Gen 2 170mm mags and now run MBX. The 140 Gen 2 runs good once tuned. As long as I keep it lubed, it eats any brass I feed it! I would not hessitate to build another.

Day 1 today. 10 yard A zone times ,2 shots averaged 1.2 to 1.35. Draw shot at end of day was in the high 1.05 to 1.10 range, splits consistent .17-.18 Head shots at 10 yards was 1.5-1.65. Draw shot on head was 1.25-1.35, splits .25-.3 A's and few second shot C's Bill Drill times at 10 yards was 2.18-2.24 pretty consistent (3 times) all A's though!! The dot torture was not as good. 5.5 to 6 to keep all in the 2 inch circle. Tried to continually focus on repeatability, grip, sight picture and accuracy. My comfortable draw to A at 10 yards is about a 1.25. really have to focus and push to stay in the 1.0's...

Started USPSA a little over a year ago. Started in CO with and XDM 5.25. Instantly hooked! Coming from a history of competing in F Class long range, I love the fast pace action of USPSA. I am also a gear junkie... So a year and a half into this I have a CO, PCC and even built my own Open pistol. Made B class in CO the first year and decided to shoot Open and PCC this year. Hit B class straight up in PCC. Struggled in Open. Took awhile to get the gun reliable. Now that it has ran flawless for the past 2 months, I am ready to go! Placed pretty well in local matches for the past couple months, decide to try an attend matches with good competition. To be pushed! Seems like I have hit a wall... Lot of personal issues with job and grown kids kind of derailed my focus. 2 state matches in 1 month, stuck in C Class open. Been placing in the 60-70 percentage at matches with a GM, but tanking classifiers. Last match I placed well but was dissatisfied with my self. So, time to hit the Reset button! Basics, basics, basics,. For the next month until the NC and TN state matches, my plan is to dry fire every day, focusing on draw, sight picture and explosive movement. Live fire twice a week. Day 1 each week will be draw and fire 2 shots at 10 yards A zone, draw and fire 2 shots 10 yards head shot. Dot torture at 10 yards and Bill drill 10 yards. Day 2 will be the Blake drill , classifier 09-02 and 09-04. These all require focus, accuracy, and speed. The basics of a good run.

I always sort new to me brass shooting open! The possibility of stepped brass is too great. When I did pick up range brass from matches, it always took longer to sort due to damaged brass from being ground into rocks , sand etc. Plus, no telling how many time some of it has been shot.

If you don't like to pick up brass at the range, East Coast Reloading Supplies has cleaned 9mm brass for $23 a thousand. Very clean and fast shipping. I am not picking up brass for that! Especially at the 2 ranges I shoot at. I can't pick it up, sort it and clean it for that!

True... But I got tired of fooling with it. I wanted to shoot matches! It has worked great and the length is different from my other two 9mm ejectors. It is longer. Now if I can fix the nut behind the trigger, the gun has been doing it's part shooting 9 Major.

^^^^ this is pretty much the Brazos ejector as it comes!

Brazos ejector cured mine. Do make sure you have enough extractor tension though. A well shaped extractor to allow feeding of the next round, but strong enough tension so the next round in the mag does not dislodge it before it hits the ejector. With just a bare slide, a round inserted under the extractor, it takes a healthy thump to dislodge the case.

So?? What are you loading? Lead? Coated? Hollow points?

If you roll your own in 308, you HAVE to try the Berger 185 Juggernaut. Easiest bullet to tune I have shot. I have a 1000 yard FTR rifle throated for 215 great Berger's. My backup load is the 185 Juggernaut. It does not seem to care if it is jammed into the lands or a long jump. I shoot them out of my 700AAC and a Savage as well. Try em, you will swear off the old SMK standbys.

^^^ Search for Jerry Keefer....was a bullseye 1911 guru.

Jack Weigands videos are awesome. Kuhnhausen books are as important as buying ammo. Lots of good info out there. The article's on barrel timing by Schueman are a MUST read as well.

Slide weight maybe, shorter barrel and comp possibly, recoil spring. Otherwise I think you got it.

That can be easily Tig welded up. I have Tig'd 2 barrels. One was a factory barrel I wanted to fit tighter on the sides, second was on my current Open Pistol after an error on my part left the hood to short. Is this barrel short chambered? If so even better! Then when finish chambered, it would help smooth out the Tig build up on the side of the hood.

I went back to rounded FP stop. I didn't like the way it felt. Like the slide hitting a speed bump , upsetting things. I wanted the recoil to be smooth and controlled by the recoil spring. Make sense?

Touji, love that! What and how is that thumbsheild for the safety mounted? That is awesome! Also, how long is the barrel to the end of the slide on those?

I Angle them forward to keep the blast off the optics. Before I did this, running blue bullets I got a lot of powder type smoke fouling on lense. I recently switched to Precision Delta and angled popples. Better but not 100%. I use One Shot case lube and I am sure it get inside the cases. This might add to the smoke with HS6.

The further back from the front of the muzzle, the more time the gas has to come from the port. Too far back and you get close to your optics. My first hole is about 3/8" back from the muzzle. More leverage of your downforce the further forward you go I assume as well. Some trade offs I am sure.

I just got the cart for my DAA medium. Used to run a modified jogging stroller. The cart and pack are the bomb! Even a place to hold your umbrella, water bottle, mag pockets up high, fold out shelf for a ammo box and a pocket for glasses and tools etc. All up high so you don't have to bend over. Worth the money!

CNC will be further down the road. Kinda pricey and I can buy a lot of pistol parts first! I am installing a Precision Matthews DRO. That way recalls and tool offsets will be easier than pure manual and a notebook. Getting a bar of 4140 annealed from McMaster Carr to start with .

Wheeler torque wrench screwdriver.

Yes, loctite also has different "fit" compounds for different clearances. Go to their website and look up the charts. But if it is stainless, get some primer.

Been taking inventory and I believe I have most of the tooling. Need to order a keysert cutter for the rails, and maybe a reamer or two. If I start I will post up .

They even make primer for use on stainless and other materials that do not oxidize easily. Loctite cures in the absence of oxygen. Carbon steel etc pulls the oxygen out of the compound and it sets up. The primer has copper salts that do the same thing when used on stainless etc.