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357SIG

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About 357SIG

  • Birthday March 28

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Christmas, Florida
  • Interests
    Competitive Shooting, Gunsmithing, Fishing, Hunting
  • Real Name
    Daryn Lucas

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  1. You could always do a 357sig open gun, factory ammo makes major and runs a comp excellent. If its a 2011 you get 28 rnds in the gun with the big stick and due to the necked down ammo it feeds reliable as hell.
  2. Black-Oxide Class 10.9 Alloy Steel M4 × 0.7 mm 16 Fully Threaded 8 2.3 2.5 120,000 DIN 7991, ISO 10642 100 91294A194 $5.55 IMO these should work, as far as the strength goes but they are still a small screw...lol.
  3. It may be the picture but it almost looks like there is a crack at the bottom of the slide also in line with the crack in the popple hole slot ? Also notice the barrel wear mark on the one that cracked at the breech face, the wear mark looks to be in same location as the start of the crack ?
  4. Yes, you are correct there are loads that will make major and can be loaded in a 9X19. What I meant by ticking time bomb is when shooters decide to use a powder that isn't suitable for this and exceed the charts by quite a bit. I guess you could do this with other calibers but I seem to see it more looking at loads for the 9 major. Yes I have seen quite a few case head separations, from the minor ones to the ones that blow out the magazine. Seen a chamber split and lock the gun up but I couldn't be sure of the cause. My point is that using anything but the slowest powder is just asking for trouble and looking at burn rate charts to come up with a load is not a good idea. I've seen guys loads on this forum that exceed the charts by quite a bit with a particular powder and I'm sure you have too.
  5. I know if enough people bug Dave he will make a run of them, he has done it from time to time. I don't know if the a zone one is the same but I do know the Latest gen Dawson is the flattest, softest shooting comp I have found personally. Dave Pruitt, at Gundoc.com also made one that was very similar and works equally well.
  6. It is unfortunate that what most of us take for granted reloading any cartridge is often overlooked by some. I believe a lot is due to them being new to reloading as well as being naive as to just how bad things can go wrong. Every burn rate chart I've ever seen says that you can't use this as a basis for load development. I agree with WacoKid, in that when these practices are overlooked it causes most of the problems for shooters and gunbuilders alike. What may work for one gun with a certain barrel twist, throat dimension, chamber dimension, or COAL plays a huge part with that load being somewhat safe. As far as the 9 major cartridge goes, it is a ticking timebomb and extra care has to be taken to reload this. I wouldn't classify it as a wildcat because most wildcat cartridges at least stay within the pressure boundaries of the parent case design. 9 major runs at pressures that far exceed what is considered safe for the cartridge and you have to go large percentages over the charts to make the PF. I have never seen a cartridge in any organized shooting that has had so many close calls and still be allowed.
  7. As a rule you want to use the slowest burning powder that will make major with the case capacity you are working with. This usually will feel softer and makes the most gas to work the comp. This applies to all the open calibers but IMO more in a 9 major. The COAL is going to play a big part in how much pressure is made, seating a bullet even a slight amount deeper with the same powder charge can increase pressure a lot. There are other ways to lower the pressure spike in a particular load like the twist rate of the barrel or more free bore. Over many years I have seen many open guns experience things breaking and cracking from pushing the limits of what the design and material were meant to handle. The cause from these were usually able to be figured out and smiths were able to build better more reliable guns. Then came the 9 major with the rule change and the amount of guns breaking has gone way up and this is no coincidence. I think there are things that can be done to help lower the chances of breaking something in the loading of the 9 major pistols.
  8. Another thing about this situation is the OP said they had a 10# spring in the gun and went to an 8# spring because it shot better. I assume better means softer and /or flatter. I'm sure it did since the lighter spring takes less force to cycle the slide, and it might have been slamming the slide into the frame. This could have helped the slide to crack also, but I don't know without inspection. As far as WAC powder, I do not use this and IMO it is too fast burning to make major with any weight bullet. Wacokid may be partially right in that using these fast burning powders is a cause of slide cracking. IMO there is nothing safe about 9 major from a loading standpoint, making major PF with a 9mm exceeds the loading charts by large amounts. This is a whole different issue and topic though...lol.
  9. The problem is the slides and not the powder. There are multiple reasons slides will crack starting with the manufacturing process, which seems to be a problem with STI slides. There is also the hardening process of the metal which can impact how well the slide holds up. It has to be hard enough to be strong and soft enough not to be brittle. The machine and finishing work can also lead to cracks due to sharp corners left in the metal smaller than you can see. These spots will eventually start to run in the metal and form a crack that will keep travelling until it exits the piece. Slide cuts and material removal in the wrong location and amount can lead to flexing which will eventually lead to a crack. Tool marks left in slide cuts are also another way to create the possibility of cracks. STI slides seem to crack more than others for some reason, so until they seem to get this fixed I would stay away from them.
  10. See how this crack seems to start at the end of the rough lines from the flaring of the ejection port, tool and machine marks and sharp edges are often the cause of cracks starting in metal. The fact that STI has made low quality slides for a while now is no secret, why any custom builder would use an STI slide is beyond me. There are other factors that cause slides to fail besides them being a bad slide to start with that have to do with the way machining and finishing is done on the slide, or any metal part for that matter.
  11. 357SIG

    More AFTEC

    The extractor is made to be fit to the slide, these are not drop in unless you just get lucky. Slide dimensions are not exactly the same, so just as most parts in a 1911/2011 they must be hand fit. These are by far the best extractors on the market and when fit properly will work flawlessly.
  12. You would be surprised how many " gunsmiths" can't fit parts on a 1911/2011, I have seen so many hack jobs its ridiculous. The worst part about it is when you see a shooter take there gun to a local "well known" gunsmith and he does a crap job, they don't really say much because they don't want to offend anyone. The inexperienced shooters are worse because they don't even know they got screwed, or the ones who are embarrassed to tell you they got ripped off. When I say there are a few guys that do triggers that are done right, I mean a few as in maybe a half dozen in my whole state. Then there's the guy that drops thousands of dollars on a new race gun and after he gets it has to send it to someone else to get a decent trigger, because the builder can cut and measure but couldn't get the trigger right. He is embarrassed to tell anyone that, and doesn't want to offend the "well Known " smith's fans...lol. I have been in your shoes and it sucks but I will tell you this, find a reputable smith to do your stuff. By reputable I mean a guy that if he can't fix the issue doesn't charge you for not doing the job. You may pay a little more but you will get the quality and reliability you expect. Also don't buy into the "well known" BS, they can either fix it or they can't. If they can't fix it don't be afraid to call there ass out if they try to charge you, tell them to put your old parts back and go elsewhere...you owe them nothing because they failed to do the job. If I were to take my gun to a smith and they tell me they can do a job and its not right, you better believe I would tell the whole world about it....its how you stop them from ripping off the next guy because he will go somewhere else.
  13. Seriously guys, I'm glad you seemed to have found the fix to your issues. My point is that the design of the 1911/2011 trigger has been around for over 100 years and it works, if done properly. Nothing you can do is going to make it not work as it is supposed to, unless something is wrong. We lighten the triggers to make the guns shoot better and it requires more skill by the gunsmith to do this than a standard G.I. trigger. The unfortunate part is there are very few gunsmiths who truly understand how to do this properly so it works reliably, safely, and lasts. There is nothing more painful to watch than a shooter who's equipment is not working, whats worse is to see them get taken advantage of by supposed gunsmiths. Just because some assjack buys all the tools and jigs from Brownells, watches a few how to videos, this doesn't make them a gunsmith. If you get your gun to someone who knows what they are doing, they will figure out the problem. A knowledgeable smith will check everything, as it is many parts all working together that make the trigger work properly.
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