insicnarf
-
Posts
30 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by insicnarf
-
-
Prior to relocating I was multi-tasking on my shop bench downstairs also using it as my reloading bench. It was built pretty well by the previous owner of the home however I bolted it to the floor and walls as per the recommendation of "Memphis" and saw a positive reduction of my oal variance.
We since found some acreage on a hill beside a golf course (yes!) and built a house which allowed me to build my reloading & gun room in a section of the basement of the design I felt would work best for me as a result of the couple of years I have been reloading. My shop is now separated by a door but still adjoining my reloading & gun room. As many here know it seems I did inherit some "attention to the details" (ocd) genes ( right Sarge?) and was trained as an engineer in a previous life. Consequently my belief is overbuilding = no worries...
I took my time and it turned out quite well. I still have the floor & walls to finish however certainly the bench is as solid as a rock! I built it directly to the existing framing with significant additional reinforcement and secured to the floor. I had a separate hvac & dehumidifier installed in the basement to eliminate any temp & moisture concerns.
Finally I was at a point of completion to run my 650 and see the results. It is now running smoother than I've ever felt it run! And my coal variance (I do sort by head stamp) for the great majority of the run were within .002. less than a handful were .003 variance and a bunch of them were spot on with each other. This is better than my previous oal by +/- .002. I believe Dillon says if oal is within a .016 variance it's okay.
I am quite pleased with these results and want to encourage those out there who are determined to reduce coal variance that it can be done!
Cheers from IGG!
Dont leave us hanging buddy. Post them pictures!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Update: Silicon carbide on EGD grips > modded Scales 1.0
So far nothing has come to beat that griptape texture. SiCo FTW -
On 9/4/2017 at 5:31 AM, IHAVEGAS said:
Hmmm, starting to wonder a bit about extractor tuning on mine. Seems like it takes a good bit of force to get the round fully up into the slide and my assumption is that additional force is required after some crud develops in that area.
Anybody played with optimal extractor tuning? Maybe filing a smidge on the contact surface with rim of case, or fiddling with the extractor spring?
I did/do the following to keep everything reliable:
1. Polished the contact points of the extractor (approximately half), as well as running the extra power spring
2. Clean the crud out near the extractor after every match/range trip3. After 250-350 rounds i do feel like all the crud buildup interferes with the trigger action and the feeding action so i always bring an action blaster/degreaser and re-lubricate everything afterwards
I can proudly say ive never had any feeding/extraction problems
-
26 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
EGD > Lava grips > Henning > SSI Scales > Factory wood > Patriot palmswell
...In order from thick to thin.
I've now heard of two cases of the PD plastic 3D printed grips cracking though, so if you want really thick ones, wait until they make theirs in metal. It's coming.
I thought people preferred the polymer PD palmswell cause it gives you the option to stipple if you want a more aggressive texture, didnt expect them to crack (although PD did give a disclaimer). Stippling the polymer palmswells is a good alternative to silicon carbide.
-
22 minutes ago, Shrek1 said:
Probably my Henning grips or some polymer proto type
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
awesome. I heard the henning grips were really grippy for some people but idk i havent tried one. Post pics when your done
-
1 minute ago, Shrek1 said:
Ok thanks. I have large hands and need to add some surface area to the grips. Hoping this works
Sent from my XT1650 using TapatalkYep goodluck. What grips were you planning on using?
-
Just now, Shrek1 said:
Apart from the crack, has the grips held up? Epoxy and cerakote holding up?
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Yep should be good as long as you dont remove too much material on the area where the screw goes. Actually i replicated this with my extreme grips which were metal, works fine but it was too "thin" for me
-
4 minutes ago, johnbu said:
Trim the LS6 to the same length as the full size 8.
The "conversion" only works for a few spring weights. over 8# LS may in fact coil bind and not allow full cycling in a full size. When i was playing with springs i found short cycling with LS springs in a s2.
Ohh thanks for the clarification. Cant wait to try it, i doubt ill have as good as recoil control than the one you showed on your video though
-
On 9/1/2017 at 4:44 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
Just buy the longslide spring from Ben's pro shop and trim it to match your current spring's length. If it's even any longer. They usually aren't.
But isnt the longslide #6 going to be #8 on fullsize? I dont understand how the conversion works.
-
Looks good. You're stealing all of my good ideas. [emoji3]
Lol thanks. Since im not a good of a shooter, might as well have a good looking pistol rofl
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
On 8/28/2017 at 11:35 PM, MemphisMechanic said:
Bevin Grams can still do it in under a week and isn't in Texas, is he?
He did mine. Had the barrel back Friday. Priority Mailed it to Grams Engineering that Monday.
Bevin is based in Southern California. I second this, turn around time has been nothing short of speedy, I didnt even have to miss a weekend match lol
-
47 minutes ago, johnbu said:
I've been running 6# long slide springs (trimmed to length of a normal 8#) in two S2's.
Both have had a fairly decent polish of the rails and chamber face. They run flat-ish.
Woah im impressed. Cant wait for my #6 to arrive. May I ask what Hammer spring youre using? One thing im worried about is the slide ramming up onto the frame too hard.
-
Was in a dilemma whether to modify my Scales 1.0 with Silicon carbide or do serrations. Ended up doing the latter. Not as flawless as Id hoped for but pretty satisfied, yet to be tested though.
-
1 hour ago, JP221 said:
Hammer spring would definitely play into it. I wouldn't want a gun that was sluggish because I would feel like I'm waiting on the gun to cycle. I have a 15.5 hammer spring in my gun because I have tons of CCI primers and the trigger is at 6.5lb/2lb, which is light enough for me. I grip the gun really hard and liked how the sights track.
Double taps mean a lot of different things to different people. I'm assuming you mean one sight picture and slapping the trigger 2 times? Try a bill drill and see what the sights do when you hold the gun really hard.
I see, thanks for your input! Ill keep those in mind when i try testing different configurations.
-
11 minutes ago, JP221 said:
I just switched from a CZ and asked Ben and Casey Reed what they use. They both said 10lb spring for 147gr bullets. I shot bill drills (sub 1.7) as a test with the 10lb, and really like how the sights track.
I've shot a S2 with an 8lb, and it felt a little sluggish. I think the lighter springs will need to be changed more often also.
Interesting. I tried the 8lb yesterday during practice cause i noticed the 10lb had more dip for me during double taps. I did think it was a bit sluggish but i assumed it was because i used the same hammer spring (12lb).
-
4 hours ago, emjei said:
Now I wanna try the 6# .... damn
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Great, be sure to let us know how it goes
-
On 8/16/2016 at 1:33 PM, MemphisMechanic said:
Ben Stoeger told us in May that he ran a 6 pound spring in his S2's while he was here for a training class.
Ive wondering for the longest time where that 6lb spring can be found cause i wanted to try it out. COuldnt find a #6 for the fullsize model.
-
54 minutes ago, MissionaryMike said:
Looking good. I shouldve gone with lower grit like you did. I like my grips aggressive and 60 grit wasnt enough for me.
-
On 8/1/2017 at 4:26 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
Looks good! You even have the mag catch on the correct side.
Let us know how you like the feel after shooting an actual match with it. Aside from making mine too fat to access the mag catch, I loved the pair I did.
After a practice session, I cracked one of the grips. I think removed too much material on the part where the screw sits and made it prone to pressure when i was tightening the screw. Another factor would also be the low quality plastic. Lesson learned lol. Probably gonna re-do it on some metal grips.
-
-
6 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
If you like the width of the factory grips, here's my suggestion: sand the entire grip down uniformly about 1/16" - 1/8" thinner that it is. You'll add that much width with the combination of epoxy and grit.
When mine were finished I loved the texture, but the gun just got too fat to fit me correctly. I need to find someone with size XL hands (mine are L) to sell my SiC grips to.
(Yes, I like the PD palmswell grips that are even wider, but they only fatten inside of your palms!)
Actually i dont have my stock grips so i bought $25 plastic grips on ebay. I wanted to buy the PD grips but I think i really need the thumb groove. Should the thumbgroves be free of SC? i imagine it would be painful when doing too many reloads
-
Thanks for this post @MemphisMechanic. Bought cheap $25 tanfo grips and will try it this weekend.
-
2 hours ago, stickboy44 said:
I have been having some light strikes too. Everything in my S2 has been polished twice. It only happens on DA.
I have a Titan hammer, 1-piece sear (not extreme), bolo, extend firing pin block, PD: firing pin and spring, PD hammer springs from 12 to 15.5 lbs.
I'm currently running the 14lb. hammer spring.
Things I have ruled out of being the problem: removed firing pin block, polished the crap out of everything, I do have a factory plunger spring in the gun, ammo is not a problem (I'm running winchester primers) and my OAL. is good (pass the plunk test)...
I also had that problem. Basically came down to me having to seat the primers deep, now i run it 100%. Same specs as you (but im running the 12lb hammer and 10lb recoil), also running winchester primers.
-
On 12/21/2016 at 4:10 PM, ARMAGEDON said:
Thanks guys. Wow what a rapid response. Amazing and thanks.
This are the parts that are on my gun right now. Also i send the barrel to Grams Engineering so he can work the barrel. I'm waiting for the barrel to arrive:
- 1 x EGD Xtreme EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Titan Hammer by Eric Grauffel
-
1 x EGD Xtreme EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Guide Rod by Eric Grauffel
(Length: Standard (3.8")) -
1 x EAA / Tanfoglio Recoil Spring & Firing Pin Spring for Fullsize models by Wolff
(Weight: 10lb - Fullsize) - 1 x EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Trigger Spring (3.3)
- 1 x Xtreme EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Sear
-
1 x EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Reduced Weight Hammer Spring by Patriot Defense
(Patriot Defense Hammer Spring: 14LB) -
1 x EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Reduced Weight Hammer Spring by Patriot Defense
(Patriot Defense Hammer Spring: 13LB)
Definitely use the OEM pin or the PD pin. This is what kept happening to mine when i had the Henning Gen III installed. Pin kept getting caught in the FPB and firing pin retainer kept falling off. With the help of ARy was able to get it up and running 100% again.
LOK grips for EAA/Tanfoglio available yet?
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
Lokgrips for tanfo now available at Benstoegerproshop for $67. I want the palmswell but tempted to get this one too