KrymSIX

Lol. I don't have enough of a gut to warrant only eating rabbit food. I may just be weird and want them further out in front of me. My 2012 mags are set up so they're angled out a little and the height of the mags makes it really easy to grab. I made some spacers out of an old scrap steer hide belt. Drilled some holes to stack behind the speed e rack and just need to get some longer screws. The DAA belt is plenty stiff so I'm not worried about the spacers being too soft or anything. And for the price of free it'll be enough to get me through my first score match on the 19th. Thanks all

Hi all, I'm a bit of a husky guy and just got my Speed-e-rack. The speed e rack looks great and is well made. The only thing is, I'd like to create some kind of spacer or something to move it forward and have a bit more clearance from my gut. I'll be drilling holes into my competition belt and mounting it directly. Has anyone ever used pieces of an old leather belt or another competition belt to create a spacer of sorts? Also, does anyone know what size screws the speed e rack uses, since I'll need to pickup some longer screws to do this. Thanks for your help, Alex

@IHAVEGAS when we had to send my wife's GP Match Champ back to Ruger, also for pawl and cylinder issues they had it back to us within a week. Granted shipping is slowed up some for USPS and UPS. I believe Ruger issues FedEx labels and will cover the cost of shipping both ways as well as any repairs. IMO it's the real reason to go Ruger over S &W. Both will have some revolvers with issues but you won't wait 8 weeks to get it back and then have the same or a new issue with the Ruger. They seem to take their CS very seriously which is a welcome change from some other companies.

So I finally did it. I got the aforementioned Redhawk 8 shot and got to take it out to the range this past weekend. The great thing was the shop did a great job of cleaning it up and oiling it for me before I took it home so it was ready for the range right out of the box. Put about 300 rounds through it. The trigger was not exactly light, but extremely smooth, especially for a factory trigger. I will be opening it up and using some fine grit papers (1200 grit) to smooth up some of the little factory finishing rough spots. I will not be touching any of the seas and hammer faces, just smoothing some rough friction spots. I plan on running the factory spring for the first 1000 or so rounds. After doing some smoothing work I'll eventually play with some lighter springs. The grips were pretty comfortable but I'm probably going to replace them due their slipperiness in the heat of summer. Overall I feel like I got a good platform that can be made competition ready while skipping some of the headaches that have been associated with S&W lately as their qc becomes ever more hit and miss. If you can find these at the right price they're excellent value. Thanks, Alex

I'm going to take a look at the used 627 Pro tomorrow. I've been looking at the Ruger Redhawk and there doesn't seem to be much if anything in the way of after market sights. So that's one thing definitely in favor of the 627 Pro, lots of aftermarket options there. The sight radius isn't my favorite, but I'll check it out and see how it feels tomorrow. I will say the Ruger Redhawk felt great in hand and the trigger pull was very smooth to the point the weight wasn't even a thought. It also seems like the Ruger might be a touch less sensitive or selective as far as needing Federal primers etc. Anyone have any experience with Speed Beez moon clips? They seem to be one of the few making moonclips for the 8 shot Rugers. Thanks all.

Hi folks, So I'm looking for a revolver that will let me shoot icore Limited and I'm wondering if this Ruger Redhawk is worth consideration? https://ruger.com/products/redhawk/specSheets/5060.html The street price is around 750-800 online. There is also a used S&W Pro Series 627 that is at a shop local to me that is priced at 700. I've heard of people taking the 627 Pro and adding longer barrels and such to run them. I'd imagine after buying a barrel and paying for install etc. It prices out to around what a Performance Center gun goes for though. I run a 6 inch SVI 2011 for USPSA Limited so the longer sight picture of the Ruger could feel more familiar. My goal is mostly to have a revolver to go to icore matches with my wife (she strongly prefers revolvers) and have the gun double as a home defense revolver. I'm not trying to beat JM, just have a competent revo and rig and have fun. Thanks, Alex

The posted load data for Ramshot Competition probably is likely lower than what I'm running. The posted max is with 1.125 OAL (factory length). I'm running 1.18 as my OAL. That said I started at their recommended load listings. From that baseline I worked my load data up until I got the velocity needed to make Major at the OAL I'm using with the coated bullets I use. I would always suggest working up load data for your specific pistol. Monitoring for signs of pressure. I checked primers and casea to ensure safe usage. For my pistol, at the OAL I'm using and with the bullets I'm using that load was perfectly safe and looked like less pressure than factory rounds. Short version: start at the recomended baselines and work your load data up checking for signs of pressure and safety.

I was tempted by the Syntech line as well. But the OAL turned me off of it. Let me clarify that my 2011 ran 1.125 factory loads just fine, but I could see they were leaving a mark at the very bottom of the feed ramp (not good). Any worn out spring could easily have been enough to cause a malfunction. I think the OAL is your main culprit. The recoil spring is just a secondary factor. I think maybe the 12 lbs spring isn't slamming hard enough to counteract the severity of the round diving and hitting low on the feed ramp. So yes, the heavier springs may work and give it enough force to chamber the rounds, even hitting really low on the ramp but you'll have to watch out for wear and tear on that feed ramp and run the risk of malfunctions if anything gets worn. For less than the Syntech you could run Precision Delta long loaded ammo (reloads, but super high quality). Those would likely let you run the 12 lbs spring no problem. They don't have a 200gr bullet option though.

I've had great luck with Ramshot Competition. With my 6 inch 2011 I'm running 4 grains of RS Competition at 1.18 OAL. With 180 grain coated bullets.

Since you're in a country where it is a 10 round limit you aren't at a competitive disadvantage the way you would be if you were in a place that allowed for use of competition capacity magazines. The main drawback is cost of brass and bullets for reloading. You should pretty easily be able yo create a load for 45 that will meet the IPSC Power Factor and feel pretty tame in the recoil department. As for shooting 2 Divisions with different skillsets (dot vs iron sights among other things. ) Again, because you're in a country where you are limited to 10 rounds you would have relatively similar stage planning for both Standard and Open divisions. You'll still be able to go faster with a dot most likely, but where you plan your reloads etc. Would likely be pretty similar. If you really have the Open bug you might consider placing an order now for an Semi Custom or Custom Open gun. While you are waiting for it to be built you could shoot in Standard Division this season and then shoot Open next season. I think it would be tough to try and improve at both in the same season. I'd pick one to focus on.

One tip I learned along the way with the GRX push thru die is to gauge the ammo right off the press first. If I have a cartridge that won't gauge, run it through the GRX and that usually sorts it out and it will gauge just fine. Perfectly safe to run a completed cartridge through the GRX. I've found that means fewer rounds having to go through the GRX die, which can be a little tedious if you do it for every single case. The U die is great if you're having issues with sizing.

So I've been using Eggleston Munitions for the past couple of seasons and really liked how they ran in my gun. Unfortunately it looks like EM is changing ownership and has halted their production as they do so. I'm looking for a company that has a similar bullet profile and is .400 .401 won't feed well in my gun. Any suggestions would be welcome. I think I've got a pack of Blue Bullets to try. I have enough loaded from last season for the first 2 matches and enough bullets to load for another 2 matches. So I have some time to fine tune load data if it's different from what I was previously getting. I am currently running EM 180 gr bullets, .400. 1.18ish +/- .005 or so OAL, with 4 gr Ramshot Competition. Thanks

@JJB05 That makes sense though. If I'm not mistaken most of Atlas' guns are built on Phoenix Trinity frames.

Not sure how the prices will stack up against some of the other great powder suppliers out there, but until 3/31/19 it looks like Midway is doing a deal for free HazMat on orders of powder and primers over 150$ Figured some folks on here may be able to take advantage of the hazmat savings. Price on the powder I use seemed pretty competitive so hopefully it works out for some of the other BE users. I am in no way affiliated with Midway, just seemed like a good pricing opportunity for anyone about to make an order before the spring season starts up. https://www.midwayusa.com/promo/primers-powder-0319

I've got a 014 Safariland open/limited holster and I had an issue with the locking bars that mount the holster to the belt. So I call up customer service and I'm expecting a bit of a hassle because sometimes that's just how it goes with replacement pieces. Not only did the rep know exactly what I was talking about. She was like "we'll send you two sets, that way you'll have spares in case you have an issue again." Just awesome customer service from Safariland.

@rowdyb Never too late to do hobby kits, and the weather is never a factor either. I remember as a kid I did quite a few Macross/Robotech and Gundam models. IG has some great accounts to follow if you're looking for showcases of awesome modeling kits. I love seeing some of the great mash up and home build kits people are able to make. You've gained an IG follow.

If I'm understanding the OP correctly, he bought a used 2011 that's got an STI frame and an unnamed slide and the milling he is referring to I believe is slide lightening. What sort of finish is on the gun right now? Is it in the white? If the gun already has some sort of finish then you will also need to figure out what it's going to cost you to get it re-finished. Keep in mind certain protective finishes can be more difficult to re-do than others as well as be more expensive. So your final expenses with that project will be more than just the 250-300 for the slide lightening cuts.

@arkadi I think if you're super nervous/conservative about the gauge you might decide what actual bullet diameter you're using then get a gauge that supports that. For 40 for instance a lot of guys use the ShockBottle XL because they're using .401 coated bullets. My chamber is on the tightef side so I have to use .400 and use an EGW gauge because it's designed for .400 bullets I really can't see the objection to using the gauge. An easy way to prove its effectiveness for yourself would be to take the gauge, gauge some ammo then do the plunk test in your barrel. That way you will confirm that ammo that passes your gauge will drop in your barrel. Then you don't have to check with your barrel as long as it passes the gauge. If you have a round that is a little sticky in your gauge you could plunk test it and then determine it's fine for a practice round.

Grams 11mm basepads are the closest you can get I think. Probably get 18 or 19 in the with Grams or TTI springs and followers.

For a company that's trying to regain its footing on solid ground the Wick gun is certainly a head scratcher. The people who will be wowed by the fact that it's a "John Wick" signature gun are also a lot of the same folks who say that steel guns are for dinosaurs and not tacticool bros. Also, range toys or practical users are less likely to shell out 4k for a gun. The folks who are inclined to spend that kind of money generally seem to know better than spend 4k for a production line gun with a polymer grip. Also, if you're making a signature series anything it's always a dicey proposition. But to make a signature gun for a fictional character? This should be featured on ESPNs "C'mon Man" segment.

Anybody have a line on small frame compact grips?

What is this referring to? I do agree that for the price the Wick 2011 is, you may as well get an Atlas or spend a bit more for SV or Akai or Limcat etc.

There's a video from Atlas Gunworks on how the pinning should be done. It gives a pretty good run down of both the how and why to pin the grip safety in the way shown.

No idea on the specifics of that trigger guard but I would suggest filing the DAA insert to fit the gun rather than filing grip on the gun. The insert is a $50 piece if it gets messed up. I'd skip the dremel and use hand files to ensure you aren't taking too much material all at once. Dremel can take too much really quickly. The grip could be a lot more involved if it gets messed up.

@philippshen this is the Tanfo in question. EA40 Compact Small Frame. Essentially the Witness Compact before they went with that branding. Just wondering what Tanfo grips might be an option (are Compact and Magwell grips the same length?) or if my best bet will be CZ75 Compact grips.