perob

I have one of the earlier X5 Legions and my box has the 320X5-9-LEGION-R2 label on the box. Think this R2 designation has been around for a while.

Anyone with experience how the Sig Romeo 8 H or T stand against the 512 or UH-1? These three are all on my shortlist.

It's going to shown by SIG at the IWA trade show in March. I think it might be aimed mostly for IPSC. The CZ Shadow 2 was also unveiled at IWA first if I remember correctly.

My striker safety disengages after only 1.2 - 1.3 mm of travel. That's way before it's fully depressed. If I pull my trigger very slowly I can feel there are actually 3 different weights / stages to the pull. The first part just under 1mm or so and is just trigger wiggle with nearly nothing to it. Then there is another 1mm which increases the pull weight by a small amount (feels very much like the safety spring weight), then after that I get to the start of the break / creep where sear starts to move (which I can visually see from behind the slide).

It says in the announcement that it can weigh up to 1.3kg with tungsten in the grip. Legion is slightly less. They also advertise an even better trigger at stock 3.5lbs. Looks like it has a better beaver tail and trigger guard undercut. Frames should be available for purchase. Price seems to be somewhere between 15-18% more. Available in Europe around June.

Just noticed the local dealers around here announced the Sig P320 X-Five Alpha. A P320 with Alu frame, specifically for competitions and made in Germany.

That's how I normally do it on my Legion trigger, but for some reason I'm just not able to do it with my GG flat.

Im pretty sure it's to prevent disengaging the striker safety or having started to disengage it.

Excellent, Thanks.

I have also observed this. As soon as you engage the GG non-adjustable flat trigger or Legion flat trigger, the safety lever begins to move upwards and does so for a tiny bit before the sear is starting to move as well. I have tried to measure the amount you need to move the striker safety before the striker can move past the block. This seemed to measure around 1.2mm~ on my gun. I have also tried to see the contact points and what happens during pre-travel with the safety lever and striker safety. I did this assembling the gun without the barrel and guide rod so that I could see the contact points between safety lever and and the striker safety lever, and as far as I can tell with the GG trigger these two contact points nearly already seem to be touching. During pre-travel I noticed that they both started to engage nearly immediately on the very first little trigger pull. From my observation of the trigger assembly and how it engages the striker safety I would prefer to have some pre-travel and would not try to eliminate it completely. I am unsure if on my gun having a pre-travel shorter than 1.2mm would actually disengage the striker safety. I do not know if assembling without a barrel and recoil spring affects the distance between the safety lever and striker safety contact points. This is me purly trying to figure out how it works on my own and my findings and assumptions might be wrong. At least for now I am trying to have around 2mm pre-travel to be on the safe side, I don't mind that anyways and actually like having a little bit of take up.

Anyone knows if the trigger bar spring in the Legion is the same as the standard P320? I've managed to bend my current one slightly, still functions but the reset is slightly weaker. I do have a Gray Guns replacement, but I would very much like to have some spare parts as I don't think this will be the last time . I found the Sig SKU Spring-5 for the P320.

The new intermediate competition sear springs and new snappy-reset trigger bar spring sounds very interesting. I got the previous competition kit and I would love to try the faster reset spring. I don't mind a slightly heavier trigger if the trade off is a nice quick and snappy reset. Wish they would sell the springs separately.

Thanks for the information! How is the reset difference? I feel that the stock xtreme trigger has a tiny bit too long reset. My SA has a crisp sub 2.2 lbs pull, but the DA is a different story with very noticeably stacking and a heavy pull.

Glad to hear about less overtravel. Did the reset feel shorter? I was thinking about grabbing the GG kit but use the legion flat trigger shoe instead. Would you be able to swap the to the legion trigger and see if it makes a difference instead of the curved?

I would assume it would give some differences and hopefully in a positive manner. Could you check if it's possible to run the flat legion trigger shoe with it as well and if that makes any differences? I remember reading a forum post on a different page and there was someone who claimed a 2-2.5lbs trigger pull with a cleaner break and shorter reset. But I find that maybe a bit too hard to believe.

Keep us updated. I'm curious to know more about GG trigger in a Legion.

My Vortex Venom held nearly 2000 rounds, started to lose zero and turn on and off during shots.

Has anyone had the chance to try out the full Unica Trigger Group Set DA/SA? Just noticed they started to sell a full set with unica hammer, sear, firing pin, firing pin block and springs. https://www.tanfoglio.it/shop/tanfoglio-unica/unica-parts-and-accessories/gruppo-di-scatto-completo-unica-per-armi-doppia-azione-double-action-trigger-group-set.html How does it compare up against Bolo+Titan and Patriot Springs? In terms of pre-travel, overtravel, reset,creep and weight?

Has anyone had the chance to check the Tango6T and compare it Vortex Razor HD Gen II-E and the Tango non T version? I'm interested to know how they stack up against each other in terms of clarity, dot brightness, fov and eye relief. There are plenty of info on the normal Tanog6, but not the T version. Currently I'm running a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x and I got very envious after looking through a Zeiss V8 and a Swarovski z6i. Those models are out of my budget range, but the Tango6T and the Vortex Razor HD Gen II-E is just at the limit.

That's my concern as well with the Legion. So far I think the SRO might be a better option. Hope you can test the Max on the Legion soon.

Could you post some photos of the entire gun from the side with the optic mounted? Would like to get an impression of the size difference and how far forward it mounts.

Are there any mounting plates for Romeo3Max and X-Five Legion yet and does it uses the RTS2 mounting pattern? Can't find anything at over at Springer Precision's website. I'm about to pick up a X-Five Legion for the next season and I am considering between the Romeo3Max and SRO. So I am very interested in your comparison and how they hold up and function on a Legion.

I have been thinking about going back to Glock for optics division from my Tanfo Stock 3. I really like how well and naturally Glock points for me, but I do appreciate the weight of my Tanfo during recoil. My splits are faster and I am generally more accurate with the 2.5lb ish SA trigger. However transitions and getting on the target feels faster with the Glock. I wish the Glock had a little bit more weight to it's frame.

I tried this gun recently and I was thoroughly impressed by how well it pointed for me and how the grip felt. The trigger was also great, however I think you can achieve better (lighter) with other aftermarket triggers. I also liked that the RMR cut was very low and that co-witness should be possible with both RMR and SRO. It felt like a great gun for IPSC Production Optics where we are very limited on the mods we can do to a Glock 17. Although it was very pricey, nearly as much as my Tanfoglio Xtreme's. After I got home I decided to research the gun a bit more and I came across the following youtube video: https://youtu.be/ls6gC8f5UQs?t=71 At around 1:38 it has an unintentional discharge. How could this have happened? From my understanding the OZ9 functions as any other Glocks, should not the firing pin block safety have prevented this? How could the sear engage by itself? Or is it possible that these come with the pre-travel taken out so much that it already pushed the block out of the way? Also the firing pin would need to be cocked further back to set of the primer than its half cocked position. I was a bit interrested in this gun, but issues like this definitely deter me form buying straight away. I have not seen videos from that channel before so I am not certian how authentic it is.

I have a small frame from 2015 and I'm pretty sure it looks like the photo on the right side.