bossk95

I might have to get a few of those and play around with them, I'm also thinking of getting a few frames and slides from JEM to play around with also. That will probably be a ways down the road though

I think that's what I am going to do now is just get an inexpensive bare slide and mill an optic cut in it and fit the comp to it.

It was the September/October 2020 issue for anyone else looking at this, I will definitely be reading that tonight when I have a chance, I am starting to think I might just buy a bare slide and fit everything correctly, my slide isn't machined for a reverse plug and I'm not sure about drilling and tapping my frame with how thin it is so I might just look at a bare slide and mill what I want in it. That way I don't ruin my single stack gun at the same time

Ok thanks for the help guys, so once I've got the barrel threaded and fit to the slide what do I need to do to install it? I know there needs to be a 1° or what ever the gap ends up being faced off the slide. What is involved in timing it and blending/final fitting of the comp before finish reaming?

One of the guys I shoot with cracked the slide on his .38SC DVC Open a couple years ago and sent it in to STI they "rebuilt" it and the comp cracked after a couple hundred rounds, he still shoots it but has retired it from competition

I am a tool maker so it was going to be done on a lathe regardless, I have used dies enough times to know they are useless for anything that needs to be critical. I figured I would need to cut them a little long past what they are in the cone but how deep do I need to actually cut into the barrel? Do I need to go just enough so it threads on with slight resistance so it stays lined up properly? Every time I have cut threads on a lathe I have known the major and minor diameter I needed to cut to, I can get the minor once I have the comp in hand, I am just concerned on the actual fit of the threads.

I actually just saw the blank comps last night and decided on going that route.

Ok thanks for the tip, on threading the barrel topic since I'm working on getting an open 2011 put together also, with the conversion cone would putting a set screw on the bottom do any good from keeping it from coming loose?

That's what I was planning to do do if there wasn't any other ideas I could find

Would anyone be able to get some pictures of the bottom sides of slide rackers that use detents not screws? like the Brazos zig racker or STI DVC Open I'm wanting to make my own and looking for ideas for how to hold the detents in place.

Awesome thanks for the guide, getting the scale ordered now

Has anyone ever used these with an S&W 929? I've considered buying some for mine, I know they fit in the TK moon clips but have not had the opportunity to load any for it

I have the Frankford Arsenal Pile Driver bullet puller. It's wall mounted and makes quite a bit of noise when it fires but it's one shot for 9mm, you can attach a tube on it also to collect components if you are doing a large amount, or it has a catch bin with a large foam pad for single rounds. I never pulled rounds because of the hassle before I got it. https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/reloading-tools/presses-and-tools/bullet-pullers/pile-driver-bullet-puller/1116083.html

I'm looking at converting my 1911 to an open steel challenge gun to use sub minor loads and need to thread my barrel. How deep do I need to cut the threads to fit the cone? I am looking at getting the EGW conversion cone and have not chosen a comp yet.

What do you guys mean by making a spring tester? Are rigging up one of those cheap trigger gauges to test a spring? That's what my mind went to at least

Ordered a 9# and 10# recoil spring and a 17# main spring, see what happens when they get here

What should I be looking for if I play around with the springs? Lighter or heavier? Or just what ever ends up feeling better?

I'm not sure it's the factory spring

Those look really good, thanks for the help everyone!

It's held on the same as the green but rotated 45° if I remember correctly from another post on here.

I've got a Springfield loaded target in 9mm and every load I've ran through it seems fairly slow and sluggish on the lock up. I've tried 115s, 124s, and 147s with various powders and none have really ran as quick as i feel like it should be, 115s with CFE pistol give the best results but it's pretty snappy. Anyone have any suggestions to help?

That looks really good I'll definitely be keeping them in mind, any issues with wear on it yet?

Would you be able to post some pictures? I'm debating on what all to get done on mine

Their price doesn't look too bad, cheaper than what I was looking at for cerakote

How much did it cost you to have it done?