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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by ecn515

  1. Any updates at all? Round counts? Buckshot required? Slings? Schedule/squad matrix? We're about 8 days out and haven't heard anything. Need to start prepping.
  2. Thanks for your input. I've been shooting 3 Gun for about 4 years now. Most of that time with a 1301, so I've got plenty of experience just none of it with inertia guns. I'd agree the biggest thing pulling me towards the m2 over the breda is the comfort tech and the ability to set it up a little more personally.
  3. I've recently found myself in need of a new scatter gat due to an unfortunate happenstance. Luckily though I also picked up a Roth Performance receiver off a prize table the same day I broke my current shotgun. I'm just trying to decide between building up an m2 or a b12i with the new receiver so I'm looking for pros and cons from people who have experience with both. Up to now all I've ever shot is a 1301 so I have no experience with either gun. It's also worth mentioning that I'm a lefty so to set up a m2 it would cost a bit more for stock parts to set it up for me.
  4. Mine was opened up by RCI almost two years ago. Only cleaned once a year, thousands upon thousands of rounds through it. Still looks great, can't really recall any malfunctions in the past two years either.
  5. No clue on the barrels. But I'm tempted to say yes since the 1301 us really just a spec'd out 400. Most every other part is interchangeable so it would stand to reason that the barrels would be too. Only thing to consider is the barrels are so astronomically expensive that at that point you might as well just buy a different gun for a few more dollars...
  6. Any A400 stock should mount up just fine. There are tons of A300 stocks as well. I put an A400 Mega Kick Off stock on my 1301, bolted right up.
  7. I mentioned those baseplates in my first post on this thread. I have two sets of them, they're great. Alot cheaper than some of the other options out there and much better for prone than any of the other extensions I've seen or used. Again, also usefull to coupling 20rd mags as most other options don't work on mags that short.
  8. I get that a magazine with less tension on the top round is easier to seat, but with that in mind why not just use a 40rd mag loaded to 30 if length isn't a concern. It's a much cheaper option...
  9. That's my dilemma, I also care about some of those things. This would be my 5th 1911 and I've very much grown to like an undercut frame and front strap checkering, which is also the hardest things to add on after the fact... Hence why the Gold Cup Trophy and PM9 have caught my eye.
  10. Just my opinion here, but there is really no need for magazine extensions for the rifle, especially ones of that shape and style. There's two parts to that thought process. First, as many matches as I've shot I can't recall a time that I needed more than 40rds but less than 45rds. Meaning that a baseplate wouldn't have save me a reload where as a d60 which is legal in most tac ops rule sets would have. Normal pmags are very cheap, around $15 normally which is substantially less than most baseplates. Just buy one or two of each 20, 30, and 40rd mags and save the rest that you would have spend on baseplates for a d60. Second, baseplate that are metal and smooth like that are slick. Furthermore the curvature of that mag makes it so that you get very little contact when you go prone, and as already discussed the contact you get offers less than ideal grip. To correct that angle for going prone I use magpul ranger plates, they are like $3/each. Ranger plates correct that angle issue and are made of rubber so you get good grip when you go prone with them, they offer a much more stable position. The other option that accomplishes the same goal if you feel like you still NEED extensions is the new taylor freelance tmag baseplates. They are the same angle as ranger plates, add 2rds to the mag, have actual grip on the bottom, and can be used to couple mags together. I use a set of them on my 20rd mags since most conventional couplers don't work on 20rd mags.
  11. Have you considered a Knapp front sight? It's a stick on so it doesn't matter I'd your rib is already tapped or not. I've used one fore over a year now and have yet to knock it loose. Super bright and only visible when you mount the gun correctly. I'm a big fan.
  12. Thanks for the suggestions! By no means am I new to gun games or 19/2011's, I have been at this for a while and already have an Atlas Titan for Limited and 3 Gun play. I love that gun but I think SS would be fun to keep things fresh. I think the Colt or DW would be about the most I'd want to spend on the gun since this is secondary to my main focus which is 3 gun. Obviously I know what ever I get in the end I want fiber front/black rear sights, good grips, magwell, and ambi safety. So the more of those things that are included the better, I don't have unlimited time to fiddle with another gun and get it set up. I especially have no patience or time for a gun that doesn't run out of the box so factory reliability is a must. The DW PM9 looks interesting, although it's lacking magwell and grips and is pretty expensive especially for not being done. The RO Elite Target peaked my interest early, but there's not much out about it and it would take the most work in my estimation. The Sig Max is something I'd also considered I've yet to actually see anyone using them though, that and unfortunately the safety/trigger/sights aren't really up to my liking so it would also take some work. If I were throwing out the Colt right now it would appear that the PM9 is the front runner. All that being said a RI is definitely not what I'm looking for, but I appreciate the input and am glad to hear that they are working out for some of the rest of you.
  13. Soliciting suggestions and opinions on which 9mm 1911 to buy for gun games. I'd primarily be shooting USPSA SS and steel challenge with this gun. I'm left handed so an ambi safety would be nice. Not super crazy about doing a ton of work on it myself after getting it, so the more ready to run the better in my opinion. I've looked into offerings from Sig, Springfield, and a few others. At this time the front runner in my books seems to be the newly refreshed Colt Gold Cup Trophy, all it would need after purchasing would be an ambi safety from what I can tell. If I've missed something, or you think there's something else worth considering feel free to share!
  14. The release on the MG series is great. If you set them up properly the retention is more than adequate. I almost never drop any shells unless I directly run them into something which will cause any caddy to drop its payload early. Running at full speed, jumping out of trucks, going prone, no problem. I couldn't really quadload well if at all before I tried the taccom MG series because the pull was too stiff and the shells always got cockeyed in my hand on the draw. I use nothing but taccom MG caddies and have for the past two years. I absolutely love mine.
  15. Avoid the M3K. Buy a m3000 and do the work yourself. I've yet to see an m3k run well, including the one I bought. On the other hand m3000's almost always run, I rarely ever see them having fits of any sorts. It seems like what ever Stoeger did to keep the price down on the m3k and give you the 'features' absolutely killed that gun. Port work isn't hard, and you still need to do it on a m3k so doing it to a 3000 is really not much different. m3000's can be had for a shockingly low price right now which leaves you plenty of money to build it out exactly as you like.
  16. That may be a part of your issue. You have to Chrono. Book data is often taken with a 20"+ barrel. Ioaded some 55gr ammo that the book said would be about 3000FPS, clocked in at less than 2700 FPS out of my 16" barrel. Published data in that instance was gathered using a 24" barrel at a different elevation.
  17. Are you chronoing your ammo? Or just going off published data/guessing?
  18. As has been discussed I make the switch between 55gr and 77gr TMK's as need be. I zero for my 77gr's and just know where my 55's hit in relation to that (which is only about 1/2'' difference) I only really shoot my 55's to 150-200 tops past that and sometimes earlier than that I switch over to my 77's.
  19. If you're worried about warranty then just buy from Brownells. They offer a forever no questions warranty on all products they sell.
  20. The p3tr reticle in the Steiner p4xi (I know confusing) is a BDC reticle. It is designed for a 50yd zero with factory ammunition and the subtensions at set up at intervals so that they will line up pretty well at the 300, 400, and 500yd line. A MOA/MIL reticle the subtensions are set at round numbers of MIL/MOA and are more useful if you get into reloading your own ammo or shooting different calibers. That being said I'm pretty sure that the Viper PST genII also has an offering that is in a BDC reticle. Personally I load my own ammo and prefer MOA over MIL so that's how I like my subtensions I've also been known to move scopes around between guns alot. But BDC's work well for alot of shooters.
  21. I have a Steiner, shot a lot of PST gen 2's. I really like the glass clarity, illumination, reticle, and weight of the Steiner. It's also cheaper. If you shoot factory ammo it's a good choice. That being said the Vortex has more reticle options. It's heavier and more expensive but you get a bit more magnification. I've seen several of these break, but Vortex will take care of you. At the end of the day either is a great choice and you won't be disappointed. Buy the reticle that lines up with your ammo the best, that's the most important factor in breaking the tie.
  22. I know, way late to the party here. I've had a Titan in 9mm for about 8 months now. I played around with springs alot in the beginning but eventually settled on a 7lb spring for my grip and ammo. I've yet to have a malfunction short of ammo not going off (backwards primers and what not). I really don't clean the gun like I should. I use a hodgepodge of MBX, old STI, and new STI mags none of which are tuned. I shoot 147gr Xtreme's through it pretty exclusively that I load right at 128 PF. I don't know what it is but this thing is simply magical. As others have said, I've also got my eyes on another now. I think a Nemesis could be fun...
  23. I'm a fan of the condition 3 start anytime you're requiring shooters to go prone, use a sling, or anything else crazy. One small concession can ease a lot of minds and quite many complaints.
  24. I don't shoot Winchester Universal because I'm not a fan of how it's loaded and I'm very particular about my ammo, but there's nothing wrong with it. I know one person in specific that has fed 5k rds of Win/Fed Walmart ammo to a Franchi Affinity without a single malfunction and that gun was literally never cleaned. It was awful. OH and thanks for bringing up Super Speeds, between myself and another friend we shot 6 flats of super speed this past year and had no issues. We're running the same shotguns. And yes my shotgun has chewed up everything I've put in it. I think the point about you can't shoot too soft or hot of ammo is counter productive to your point that 930's 'just get a bad wrap.' I shoot a gas gun, I didn't clean it once last year, shot it at least two times a week every week, never had a malfunction, fed it primarily 1145fps ammo, and it worked that way right out of the box. You could get a 930 and spend hours working on it and maybe get it to run right or you can get a much better gun for marginally more money that will work right out of the box and is every bit as set up as 930.
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