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shoots100

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Everything posted by shoots100

  1. Better or not, It's one shot less than the 929 and that 8th shot is worth the extra $$$.
  2. Qualityguru, A little research in this forum would've show'd that almost all 929's needed work to make them function to a competitive standard. With some guidance from this forum, quality parts and some elbow grease, my 929 is rock solid and has been so for the last couple of years. Your not alone and we understand your frustration, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel. SJC
  3. I bought a couple thousand Federal nickel brass after trying all of the available nickel brass brands. The tighter fit of the brass in the moon clip and less space between the brass & frame = better ignition for me. Easier extracting nickel brass and they look nice and puurty after polishing. I do get the occasional split case every once and awhile, but its easy to find them when de-mooning. SJC
  4. Been using the stainless .040" DAA moons for years. After tuning my 929 to a 6lb DA pull, the DAA moons had the best ignition reliability of all the moons I tested. It figures it was the last moon brand tested and they come from a neighboring state. I only use nickle plated brass in my 929, but a fellow wheelgunner I lent a few moons to uses whatever he picks up and has had no issues either. As was mentioned, try different brands before going all in. SJC
  5. I've contacted all of these high end revolver manufacturers about making an 8 shot model, or an 8 shot 9mm or .38 cal cylinder conversion for competition use and haven't heard a peep back from any of them. Paying anything over $2k for a 6 shot revolver is just crazy in my book and yes I've shot Korth, Manurhin revolvers for comparison. It's like having a Ferrari and putting studded snow tires on it ! If I'm gonna spend that type of money, I want to use it, not look at it ! As was posted above, a S&W with a custom action + trigger job is on par and often exceeds most of the high end revolvers being made and for thousands + more less. If Korth offered an 8 shot convertible 9mm revolver, I would be on the waiting list, as the durability + user friendly adjust-ability are worth the extra $$ to me. Until them, I'll be using my blue collar 929's. SJC
  6. N320. I used to get powder residue buildup under the extractor using other powders. Screwed me up at a match early last year. I switched to N320 soon afterwards. As a test, I didn't thoroughly clean my 929 for just under 2,000 rounds. Just cleaned around the front sight and cylinder exterior. Ran like a champ and I probably could've gone another thousand rounds without an issue. SJC
  7. Update. I called CZ and they told me that the P-09 kadet firing pin cross pin is held in place with a 2mm hex head set screw. I was able to remove the set screw, even though I gave it a good number of wacks with a punch, as I was told it was a roll pin that held the firing pin in place. Of course the new kadet firing pin & spring I ordered from CZ wasn't even close to the firing pin of the 09 kadet. I'm so glad that I took the initiative and called them to get the right pin and spring part numbers, instead of just ordering it off their site and receiving the wrong parts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So as usual, I had to do some work to the old firing pin. Initially,the firing pin was hardly sticking out of the slot when pushed in manually. The cross pin stops the over travel of the firing pin, so I carefully filed away the rear of the firing pin slot till the pin was just below the breech face when manually pushing it in. Now it works 100% with the CCI mini mag and any Federal ammo I use. Anyone need a firing pin & spring for a 75 kadet kit that won't fit a P-09 ? SJC
  8. I'm starting to get lite strikes when using my P-09 kadet kit. I received a new style kadet firing pin + spring from CZ. I read that a roll pin(near the rear sight) retains the firing pin, but can seem to get the roll pin to budge. I don't want to hit it any harder and risk breaking it. I also see that it has a firing pin retainer like the 75, but can't seem to be able to push the firing pin in enough to remove it that way either. Before I call CZ, can anyone please tell me how they replaced the firing pin on their P-09 kadet kit ? Thanks, SJC
  9. I started carrying a 329PD after a very close moose encounter and I hike a lot in bear country. While I liked it for it's lite weight, The 329 broke a few times when practicing with it and stung like a hive of hornets with full power loads, even with different grips. I'd rather shoot my 4" 500 single handed ! I just couldn't depend on it, so it was sold for a big loss after getting it back from S&W. I ended up buying a Taurus 444ULT. After beating the crap out of it and suffering no failures, I bought another one and don't worry about reloading , as I carry them both in a double shoulder rig now. While I've never shot them in a comp(Don't have enough loaders or a proper holster), I've shot them both at steel practices with friends, using 44 spcl 200 grn coated loads. While it has and can be done, I wouldn't want to shoot a match with the 329 and 44 mag loads. That would make me think twice at getting into the revolver game. SJC
  10. Ghost for me too. My 929 draw's quick & clean and is secure when locked. Offered in left hand too. SJC
  11. I had some of the same brass issues as others with my 929. Misfires, 20% chamber fit failure and tight extraction. To stop all of the BS, I've been using nickel plated brass and CED .040" moonclips. I get about 10 reloads before the brass starts to have some failures. Now I enjoy shooting my 929, instead of complaining about it. SJC
  12. CYM I've had Taurus revolvers that had better machining than my 929. Nothing that money, polishing and sweat couldn't fix. Too much to list. 4 and I'm being gracious. SJC
  13. I've always preferred shooting, carrying and working on revolvers, so it just seemed natural to shoot them in competition. Thankfully some revolver manufacturers decided to make eight shot models to keep the sport going. I do appreciate a fine crafted bottom feeder, but I just don't get that warm and tingly feeling shooting them. SJC
  14. I more than Hate the psychos that Kill people and then kill themselves afterwards !!! The latest ambush killing of the California police officer really pissed me off. SJC
  15. I had the barrel of my 327JM tighten up and bind the cylinder after two range sessions. If the issue is a loose barrel, by the barrel/sleeve tool & feeler gauge set so you don't have to send it to S&W for repair. SJC
  16. I tested a C-more with an 8 moa dot and liked that size for steel plate shooting. I'm in the process of setting up a 617 for RFPO. As my depleted 2018 shooting funds didn't allow for a C-more purchase, I did find a good price for a new Fast Fire 3. I also ordered a raptor engineering mount after reading up on them from past posts here, and will hopefully have it set up next week. SJC
  17. If you take a look at the BC Armory website, you'll see what I'm talking about. They remove a lot of material from their 617 cylinders.
  18. That looks good, but I've seen pics of other 617 cylinders with a lot more metal removed. I don't know how those cylinders held up to a lot of use though ? Did you weigh the cylinder before and after machining it ? I'm not expecting miracles, but I know a lighter cylinder takes less poundage to move and speed is the name of the game. SJC
  19. I've done pretty much everything to it to get a 7lb DA trigger pull, but have been only able to get it to 7.5 lbs with reliable ignition. I'm looking into having the cylinder weight reduced to get there. Would it be worth getting the cylinder machined to see if I can get that 1/2 Lb reduction I'm looking for ? SJC
  20. BMT hands down. Worth every penny and more.
  21. I would watch with lightening the recoil spring on your .40. Without a buffer, you'll be subjecting the Poly frame to excessive recoil force, which will definitely cause issues.
  22. I only shot my 617 at steel practice tonight. I stacked my thumbs and kept my right thumb right between the cylinder and the trigger. I have to make a mental note to do it each time though and my support hand thumb was getting ahead of the cylinder. Now I wear a thin kevlar/leather glove on my right hand to avoid burning my thumb in case it gets ahead of the cylinder. Thanks for the advice. Once I get a side plate that fit's, I'll be able to make some type of rest and be golden. I figured the larger X grip would take care of it, but it didn't. This gun wasn't made for shooters with big hands, but I'll get it to fit me one way or another. SJC
  23. I had issues test firing primer only with the .035 moon clips. The .040 worked a lot better. I could get it to 6 lbs with primer only ignition, but had to bump it to 7 lbs to get reliable ignition with live ammo.
  24. Side plate didn't fit. Said it was for a 617, but maybe for an earlier model with a different frame ? My Quest continues. SJC
  25. On the left side (opposite the cylinder release) of a revolver, there's a whole bunch of real estate. Like I said, I have big mitt's. I have a high grip, so when I grip the 617, I cover the pistol and my support thumb inadvertently hits the cylinder , or when I grip lower with my support hand, my trigger finger. I have no problem with my 929. I can draw and shoot with no issues. When I'm shooting my 617, Even from the low position, I have to make a concerted effort to get a proper grip and it's screwing me up. I found and bought a used side plate, so now I can do some testing and hopefully make it work. SJC
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