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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

shoots100

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Everything posted by shoots100

  1. Front sight Red F/O Rear sight Double green F/O Put red dot between green dots and your good to go. SJC
  2. One thing I've noticed when practicing reloads with moon's loaded with dummy rounds , is that you need to practice with some type of padding on the floor for the moons to fall onto, as they do get damaged when dropping on a hard floor and don't work good afterwards. I've gotten away from using dummy rounds and just use over sized brass, so I can practice ejecting how it happens at a match(ejecting empty brass) and the over sized brass is easy to load back into the cylinder and won't get banged up as much when hitting the floor. Otherwise, try not to miss and you won't need to reload as much !!!! SJC
  3. I took it out ASAP and was going to fill it in, but it makes a nice access port for doing a quick internal flush and lube.
  4. In the flintlock muzzleloader world, if a ball gets stuck in the barrel, there's a screw tip that fits on the ram rod that you use to screw into the lead projectile to pull it out. I would try that method to remove the dowel and then ram the projo out with a brass rod. I would never use a drill in a barrel unless you have another to replace it. SJC
  5. I had the BB grips, but like the factory grips, they were too thin for my hand, so I ended up trying and have been using the Hogue grips I borrowed from my S&W 500. Hogue # 19022. SJC
  6. Can't wait to try one someday, maybe on a 10 shot revolver ? SJC
  7. I got an RF100 after buying a 650 press many years ago. I did the recommended adjustments to it, like the PP, but never got it to run 100%. I moved on. SJC
  8. And in under two minutes, The PAL can be turned over and used for large primers. If the PP could be used to load Small and Large primers, I would've been on the list. SJC
  9. The same thing occurred with the debut of the RF100. I had one and I got tired of screwing with it. Sold it for a loss and that's the only piece of dillon reloading equipment I've ever gotten rid of. I couldn't live without my dillon presses. I tried all of the primer fillers, settled on the PAL and have been very happy with it. I would like to have another unit that fills tubes while I'm loading and if the PP can do that reliably(albeit slowly) without worrying about upside down primers, I'll give it a try. Of course, I'll be waiting for some more positive reports on the PP before ordering, as I'm in no hurry because I have a Rolls Royce in the Garage ! SJC
  10. I used Fed auto match during match's and the fed 525 box ammo for practice and match shooting. The CCI patriot was also very reliable when I set the pull to 6.5 pounds. With the factory hammer, I needed to keep it at 7lbs with auto match and 7.5 with CCI. SJC
  11. I stand corrected, as Apex has answered the call about making an SA/DA mass hammer. SJC
  12. You need to blue loctite the strain screw of any revolver. If your not comfortable changing parts on your firearms, by all means bring them to a competent gunsmith, but it's really not that hard to accomplish by yourself, especially with all of the knowledge found in this forum. Trying to make a race car out of a VW beetle isn't going to happen using factory parts. The 617 has been around for awhile and there's only so much you can do to it before you need to add race parts to get where you want to go. As far as I know, there's no Single/Dbl mass hammer in production to make it fire more reliably. The only way I got my DA trigger pull down to around 6lbs, was with the addition of the apex mass hammer and a well adjusted main spring. I got it down to about 7 lbs DA pull with shimming the cylinder, longer firing pin, spring kit and a more sensitive primed ammo combination. Plus polishing the internals, frog lube and dry firing (with snap caps) for a couple of weeks. SJC
  13. Better or not, It's one shot less than the 929 and that 8th shot is worth the extra $$$.
  14. Qualityguru, A little research in this forum would've show'd that almost all 929's needed work to make them function to a competitive standard. With some guidance from this forum, quality parts and some elbow grease, my 929 is rock solid and has been so for the last couple of years. Your not alone and we understand your frustration, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel. SJC
  15. I bought a couple thousand Federal nickel brass after trying all of the available nickel brass brands. The tighter fit of the brass in the moon clip and less space between the brass & frame = better ignition for me. Easier extracting nickel brass and they look nice and puurty after polishing. I do get the occasional split case every once and awhile, but its easy to find them when de-mooning. SJC
  16. Been using the stainless .040" DAA moons for years. After tuning my 929 to a 6lb DA pull, the DAA moons had the best ignition reliability of all the moons I tested. It figures it was the last moon brand tested and they come from a neighboring state. I only use nickle plated brass in my 929, but a fellow wheelgunner I lent a few moons to uses whatever he picks up and has had no issues either. As was mentioned, try different brands before going all in. SJC
  17. I've contacted all of these high end revolver manufacturers about making an 8 shot model, or an 8 shot 9mm or .38 cal cylinder conversion for competition use and haven't heard a peep back from any of them. Paying anything over $2k for a 6 shot revolver is just crazy in my book and yes I've shot Korth, Manurhin revolvers for comparison. It's like having a Ferrari and putting studded snow tires on it ! If I'm gonna spend that type of money, I want to use it, not look at it ! As was posted above, a S&W with a custom action + trigger job is on par and often exceeds most of the high end revolvers being made and for thousands + more less. If Korth offered an 8 shot convertible 9mm revolver, I would be on the waiting list, as the durability + user friendly adjust-ability are worth the extra $$ to me. Until them, I'll be using my blue collar 929's. SJC
  18. N320. I used to get powder residue buildup under the extractor using other powders. Screwed me up at a match early last year. I switched to N320 soon afterwards. As a test, I didn't thoroughly clean my 929 for just under 2,000 rounds. Just cleaned around the front sight and cylinder exterior. Ran like a champ and I probably could've gone another thousand rounds without an issue. SJC
  19. Update. I called CZ and they told me that the P-09 kadet firing pin cross pin is held in place with a 2mm hex head set screw. I was able to remove the set screw, even though I gave it a good number of wacks with a punch, as I was told it was a roll pin that held the firing pin in place. Of course the new kadet firing pin & spring I ordered from CZ wasn't even close to the firing pin of the 09 kadet. I'm so glad that I took the initiative and called them to get the right pin and spring part numbers, instead of just ordering it off their site and receiving the wrong parts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So as usual, I had to do some work to the old firing pin. Initially,the firing pin was hardly sticking out of the slot when pushed in manually. The cross pin stops the over travel of the firing pin, so I carefully filed away the rear of the firing pin slot till the pin was just below the breech face when manually pushing it in. Now it works 100% with the CCI mini mag and any Federal ammo I use. Anyone need a firing pin & spring for a 75 kadet kit that won't fit a P-09 ? SJC
  20. I'm starting to get lite strikes when using my P-09 kadet kit. I received a new style kadet firing pin + spring from CZ. I read that a roll pin(near the rear sight) retains the firing pin, but can seem to get the roll pin to budge. I don't want to hit it any harder and risk breaking it. I also see that it has a firing pin retainer like the 75, but can't seem to be able to push the firing pin in enough to remove it that way either. Before I call CZ, can anyone please tell me how they replaced the firing pin on their P-09 kadet kit ? Thanks, SJC
  21. I started carrying a 329PD after a very close moose encounter and I hike a lot in bear country. While I liked it for it's lite weight, The 329 broke a few times when practicing with it and stung like a hive of hornets with full power loads, even with different grips. I'd rather shoot my 4" 500 single handed ! I just couldn't depend on it, so it was sold for a big loss after getting it back from S&W. I ended up buying a Taurus 444ULT. After beating the crap out of it and suffering no failures, I bought another one and don't worry about reloading , as I carry them both in a double shoulder rig now. While I've never shot them in a comp(Don't have enough loaders or a proper holster), I've shot them both at steel practices with friends, using 44 spcl 200 grn coated loads. While it has and can be done, I wouldn't want to shoot a match with the 329 and 44 mag loads. That would make me think twice at getting into the revolver game. SJC
  22. Ghost for me too. My 929 draw's quick & clean and is secure when locked. Offered in left hand too. SJC
  23. I had some of the same brass issues as others with my 929. Misfires, 20% chamber fit failure and tight extraction. To stop all of the BS, I've been using nickel plated brass and CED .040" moonclips. I get about 10 reloads before the brass starts to have some failures. Now I enjoy shooting my 929, instead of complaining about it. SJC
  24. CYM I've had Taurus revolvers that had better machining than my 929. Nothing that money, polishing and sweat couldn't fix. Too much to list. 4 and I'm being gracious. SJC
  25. I've always preferred shooting, carrying and working on revolvers, so it just seemed natural to shoot them in competition. Thankfully some revolver manufacturers decided to make eight shot models to keep the sport going. I do appreciate a fine crafted bottom feeder, but I just don't get that warm and tingly feeling shooting them. SJC
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