Cherokeewind

I have seen the safety bar catch on the bottom part of the hammer when the trigger tries to reset, preventing the trigger from returning forward. The safety bar might catch on the frame just a bit below the firing pin hole. I think both cases are caused by the fit between the ramp on the rebound slide and the rebound pad on the hammer being "tighter" than factory stock. With the side plate off you might be able to see the situation I'm talking about. Put the safety bar in place and look at the tip of the safety bar where it fits between the frame and the hammer when the hammer is down. Apex warns that some fitting may be required when installing their hammers. Let us know what you actually find, please.

I can do the tractor mechanic work myself

I knew that Jim Sr. had died but didn't know about Jim Jr.

Thanks for the suggestions. I had some work done by Mr. Clark himself many years ago, didn't realize that the business was still in operation.

I'm too old.........by the time I got it back, I would be using a walker:)

Thanks but you must not be as OCD as I am:) I had to move the rear sight waaaay left to get centered at 25 yards. Jim

Posted in the gunsmith forum also......... I'm looking for a real revolver smith to correct the over clocked barrel on my 686. TIA, Jim

I tried the search option, no joy. Looking for a real smith to correct an over clocked 686 barrel........ TIA, Jim

And, of course, no one knows how a rock finds it's way into a Glock!!

Thanks for the reply. Interested in what is found.

Was this the first round of the day or had it been fired several times just before the malfunction?

And sometimes not............... I carried a Kimber Stainless II on duty, fortunately the sights didn't need adjusting Now, no longer on the job, I'm renewing my love affair with S&W revolvers......

I had one Kimber rear sight that I actually had to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot, left to right, almost down to the bottom of the dovetail to relieve enough pressure so the I could get the sight out for replacement with a new rear.......the old sight was no good anyway.

Some military brass has cases crimped around primer pocket after primer is seated. Look closely and you may see a light ring around the primer pocket.......of so, that is the crimp. Some foreign cases have crimps that resemble small triangles around the pocket. The crimp is there to make sure the primer doesn't become "unseated" during full automatic fire. Crimped Primer pockets can be swaged or reamed (tools available for both operations), if that's the problem.

Your buddy's "Python" was probably an Anaconda.

In Colt's defense, the Python, Officer's Match, etc. were intended for single action Bullseye shooting............so I was told years ago:) Full disclosure: I own NO Colt revolvers..........

The trigger stop rod in most S&W revolvers is usually too short to be of much help anyway. Also, using the rebound stud as a trigger stop anchor point puts lots of pressure on the stud that it really doesn't need. Some folks have had problems with loose/broken studs (rebound and others) so reducing the pressure on the rebound stud is probably a good idea. On my 625 PC, the stop installed on the back of the trigger bow is so poorly fitted (much too short) that it never gets close to functioning as a trigger stop and it's not adjustable. (Ha! I can fix that without much effort.) AS pskys2 posted, most of the time it's the shooter.........Maybe in the old days when revolvers ruled NRA Bullseye, a trigger stop would have been helpful for deliberate single action work.

Myself a one or two of my bullseye buddies laid a penny on top of the front sight of our 1911s when dryfiring for slow fire practice. Not too difficult 50 years ago:)

I may be remembering this incorrectly (I'm never wrong, incorrect yes but wrong.........never!!) but someplace I think I read that the base alloy S&W uses for the MIM parts is harder than the core of the old forged case hardened parts. Can any of you guys remember anything like that?

You are kidding, right?

Sounds like a good reason to save some $$............

I've witnessed the lack of Pride of Workmanship/QC overtaking the S&W revolvers in recent years...........that's actually the reason for my original question. Getting a good revolver from them seems to be 50/50. I was attracted by the slightly lighter weight, trigger stop and chamfered cylinders as standard but sounds like it's not worth the extra cost, as some have already said.

Thanks for the replies........and we agree on the grips:) I have the application figured out, interested in the overall build quality.

How good is the 4 inch S&W 625 PC with the funky colored grips? Thanks, Jim

I said careful assembly was once taken for granted, I didn't say that it always happened And, in the interest of full disclosure, I have some older Smiths that prove it didn't always happen