Cherokeewind

With POI at the top of the front sight, I can see more of the target........my mindset is that this is important on a two way range.

I usually zero at 10 yards, standing, two hands, double action with point of impact the same as point of aim. Then I move back to 25 yards and check zero at that distance, standing, two hands, double action. I like POI to be at the top of the front sight at 25 yards. Even with fiber optic fronts, which I like a lot, I adjust to get POI at the top of the front sight, not the center of the red or green fiber optic element.

I'm really Ancient!!:)

To more directly answer the question "Should I adjust the rear sight left or right?"......... The correct answer is "Yes"! All in good fun:) Actually, I wouldn't be unhappy with what I see on your target. Maybe a few more shots to better define the group.

Tighten the nut pulling the trigger:)

I'm going to save the Counseling $$ to buy another revolver:)

I have recently had a LOT of fun shooting my S&W revolvers. The last time I fired a semi auto was when I had to qualify several weeks ago. I'm formally blaming the guys on this forum and some others for all the fun I'm having:) Jim

Sounds like good news:)

I'm sure that spring is fine, just reassemble it and press on:)

I recently had a new hand installed in a M29, dry fired fine but trigger would sometimes jam preventing firing with live rounds. Noticed very small marks on the rims of some cases and discovered that the marks were being caused by the tip of the new hand, actually the outside edge of the top of the hand. The new hand had been fitted by a sorta local refinishing/custom shop and the mechanic-in-training (?) failed to taper the very top of the new hand, leaving a more or less square corner to wedge against the rim of the cartridge which would be the next one to come up to be fired. I discovered the problem while diagnosing with empty cases. Simple fix but never would have happened if the shop knew what they were doing. Needless to say, I don't go there any more.

Fired 50 rounds today, 100% @ 6 1/2 pounds. Gonna leave as is for a while........... Thanks for all the comments:)

I'm using the RCBS bench mounted primer seating press, RCBS calls it the "Standard Priming Tool" and after seating, I can see a "burnished" spot at the center of the primer. I suspect that the spot is caused by the cup being pressed against the priming compound and the anvil. Your comments are appreciated. Edit to add: I don't seem to have the same problem with 686 DA pulls. Like revoman, 6- 6 1/2 pounds works well, I like a more robust rebound also. With my M29 and M629, 6 1/2 pounds is easy to get with 100% reliability.

As I mentioned, a Power Custom FP (.508" overall), deep seated Fed LPs, polished internals.........etc. Waiting for some .45 Auto Rim brass to see if that makes any difference. Problem there, obviously, is not able to use moon clips, unless maybe having the cylinder cut for them. 11 pound rebound spring with a couple of coils missing, about 3 # required to pull the trigger with only the rebound spring in place.

Using factory hammer, frame mounted firing pin. Tried Apex hammer but no real improvement. The "problem" may just be this particular 625......

It seems that, even with deep seated Fed LPs and Power Custom extended F Pin, about 6 3/4 to 7 pounds is the lightest reliable DA pull I can get on my 625. I have no perceptible cylinder end shake. I'm using TK and RS moons. I plan to try some .45 Auto Rim brass and see if that makes any difference. Any help would be appreciated. Jim

Can any of you folks help with this? TIA, Jim

I totally agree....UUUGGGLLLYYY!!! But does it shoot?:)

Try dry firing with empty cases in the chambers just to see if the cases have anything to do with the problem.

Any cylinder replacements on these two?

Thanks for your comments. I have actually used the technique you mentioned to repair stainless cylinder notches. With care the repair isn't noticeable and can be repeated several times.

Thanks.......maybe the issue is more of a theoretical problem than an actual real life one.

How about you guys who fire thousands of rounds yearly in competition? What sort of wear/peening do you see on your stainless revolvers vs. carbon steel revolvers?

Have any of you noticed if stainless revolvers show earlier wear (especially peening in the cylinder notches) than carbon steel revolvers? Thanks, Jim

Actually have seen this on several recently. Agree that it looks like some sort of polishing compound. Shouldn't be there but cleans up with relatively little effort and no pitting that I have seen.

What powder and what charge did you use for that load? I have some 200 grain plated RN and E3 powder.