Cherokeewind

I've peened a couple myself, fairly easy if one is careful. I don't let the notches get too buggered up before working on them.

I knew that the stainless alloy used is a bit softer and shows peening earlier than the carbon steel alloy.......just don't know if there's enough difference to influence a choice of 686 or 586............

With all the experience on this site, someone knows the answer to my question........... Which material resists cylinder notch deformation better due to rapid double action firing, stainless (686) or chrome moly (586)? Thanks, Jim

Thanks for the info.

This is not the "right" fix but if you can add a couple of end shake washers they might move the cylinder back far enough to eliminate the drag.

I have a good supply of Federal primers so I save them for revolvers. Winchester on only for Glock or 1911.

No.

I tested a small batch (only 12 rounds) of "softly seated" Win SPP in my Gen 5 G34 using a 4# striker spring. All 12 rounds fired on the first attempt. Then checked the one round that I had left of the "hard seated" Win SPP with the 4# spring.....no joy. Replaced the 4# spring with the OEM spring and that round fired on the first attempt. It seems that I might have been seating the Win SPP too hard. Strange that other brands of primers didn't refuse to pop even with "hard seating". Don't know if all this helps anyone but maybe I've learned something.........

No.......... I have checked all the obvious stuff:)

Striker channel is/was clean:)

After carefully removing a bad primer from the case it was in, I removed the anvil and the foil. The foil has a small hole in the center where the tip of the anvil has impacted it. The priming compound (olive green colored material) is present but is a powder, probably because of repeated blows from the striker. Still no answer to the puzzle. I will try a test batch with slightly less seating force and report any conclusions........

Seating them same as all the others.............. I've just about run out of possible causes. Maybe I will dissect a some of them and check for priming compound or lack thereof.

I have no problems with any primers except the Winchesters. There have been several Win SPP that wouldn't fire no matter how many times I tried them, even trying the bad primer in different pistols. I seat primers well below the case head, even until the cup is slightly flattened. No issues with CCI, Remington or Federal...............

Hmmmm....something does not compute, Will Robinson!! I only have about 600 left, when they're gone maybe the next batch will be better.

No problems with CCI, Remington or Federal, in factory or my hand loads.

Winchester brand, red, black and light gray box. Recent production, Lot No. SDLD484. Seating with bench mounted RCBS Standard Primer Tool.

Is anyone other than myself having trouble popping Winchester small pistol primers? Using them in Glock 17 and 34, both with OEM striker springs. And I do seat them to the bottom of the primer pocket. Sometimes they pop on the second try, sometimes not at all:( TIA, Jim

Any one using this powder for .38 Special 125 plated/jacketed? Thanks, Jim

Any of you have an extra? Thanks, Jim

My first thought is that the sear spring doesn't have enough tension on the two left "legs". Not enough tension on either (or both) of the two left legs can cause the hammer to follow the slide down.

Be very careful while doing it but You might try cycling a round from the mag by hand and be able to see what's happening.

So far about 300 rounds through one Torkmag with no problems.

Glad you're back!!

I received one of these as a gift, tried it out yesterday and with only 50 rounds through it, it seems to be good. FWIW, I have 20 or so OEM mags for my G17, so you can rest easy:)