Vmax606

IF the slide and barrel are still in good condition, check out ACCU-RAIL. The slide will move sooo smooth and hardly any play at all.

They were $7/K and went up to $11/K when Bill C. got elected, but then I was making $5/hr.

What a rip off ! When I first started shooting, they were $7 / K.

Remove the barrel, coat the round with magic marker then that should tell you why it would not chamber.

You are making a big deal out of nothing ! Just file a tiny bit off the TS and tiny bit from the front of the V shape cut out on the slide !

If the SS only moves at the very last moment of the lock up, then your barrel feet has very short flat, that is how combat guns are fitted, for guns that are built for accuracy, they try to keep the flat as long as possible. What is the flat ? You have to look it up if you don't know.

DO NOT mess with the barrel feet. The barrel was fitted with the slide a little further back that's all, since the gun shoots very good right now, the simplest solution is removing just a tiny bit of material at the front of the V shape cut out in the slide to let the TS go up a little more. The dimension of that V shape thing does not have to be a certain size and has no negative effect on anything .

Have you tried doing it with heat but without the BrakeKleen ? BrakeKleen may leave some residue and cut down the effectiveness of the glue. But I think the main reason is the checkering on the grips that reduces the contact surface.

Take a look at this one. GB item # 917652038

$1008 for 10K of Federal SP Match primers after shipping and sale tax from Natchez .

You should not even use the one that you do not feel resistance when seating the primers.

Do NOT use any brass with loose primer pockets, it will cause the flame to go back and pit the breech face.

COD.

If they are coated bullets, and all you want are the brass and the primers, then it's a lot quicker just to run the rounds through the sizing die with the decapping pin removed, the brass spring back out but not the lead bullets, I did that and I could just pull the bullets out by hands, it's a lot quicker and a lot less messy.

Reshape the decapping pin, make it a little more pointed.

Check the over travel screw, make sure it's not in too far. .

Never mind, I think I just got the last case. Sorry !

Montana Gold has 124 JHP right now.

Put a layer of tape on the hammer surface, cycle the slide and press down on the hammer. Is the "CLICK" still there? If not then either the sear nose or the hammer hooks are a little too long. Not sure about the light strikes problem.

Actually this maybe the die that he needs to use for the thick brass so it would not size the brass too much and cause the bulge. Sorry about being touchy, but just because I know FOR SURE what causes the problem. The die he has now may be correct for most of the brass, but it is too small for that particular brand of brass so that is why I suggested a bigger die if he wants to use that thick brass (CBC, Tula and a few others). .

So, What have you figured out about the problem that the OP has ? What causes it ? Because he still has the same problem. .

Whatever ! I have been shooting for over 30 years and over half a million rounds and that is what I have found. BTW, crimp DOES NOT prevent set back, neck tension does. To the OP : Go find a sizing die that is .002" bigger than the die you have now, your problem WILL go away, if not I will pay for it.

The problem is your sizing die is a little undersized, measure it against the Redding die that you have, you will see that the Redding die is a hair bigger, and in your case the U die will make it even worse, not all dies are EXACTLY the same size, that is why I have 2 different sizing dies for my press. You can not use the same sizing die for everything, if your die works with thick brass and .356 bullets, then it will not work with thin brass and .355 bullets because of not enough neck tension, and if it works with thin brass and .355 bullets, then you will have bulged case with thick brass and .356 bullets (and that is what you have right now).

There is a HUGE difference between BROKEN barrel lug and BLOWN APART barrel AND slide. .

The only bad thing is that these later ones they lowered the feed ramp and flared out the chamber mouth, but they overdid it and removed a lot of case support, I bought some from CDNN at the beginning of the sale and they did not have it done and I really like it, but can not find them like that anymore.