M1A4ME

For SAO you don't need the disconnector.  Just remove it and the pin that holds it on the front of the hammer.

I believe I've heard of some people leaving the disconnector in there, but modifying it so that the pistol only works in single action, but I don't know the details of this.  I think it's something stumbled on by someone and the belief is that it helps in some way to make the action smoother/more predictable??  I'm not sure, it's just something someone hinted at in a thread awhile back (don't remember if it was here or on the CZ Forum).

The reason I used the adjustable sear was due to my previous experience when modifying a CZ 75 Compact to look/function like a CZ 85 (ambidextrous thumb safeties and slide release levers.)  i also installed a (Pre B like) spurred hammer, to make it look more like a Pre CZ 85 (Compact).  I modified the safety (left side, cam on the safety shaft that moves under the forward arm on the sear to prevent firing) and it honestly/no kidding took me twenty four attempts at removal, stoning metal off the cam surface, installation, testing, and then doing it again till I got just the right amount of metal off the safety/cam to make the safety work correctly with that new hammer.  The adjustable sear just seemed like a much easier route to me after that first experience.

One other thing that I still don't understand (and no one on the CZ Forum gave me an explanation for) was about the trigger bar lifting spring.

After the install was done, the single action trigger pull was about 2&1/2 lbs.  Great.  But I was having that failure to fire problem (trigger interference with the frame I spoke about in the first note) so I was looking deeper.  I found the screw that hold the trigger bar lifting spring and the magazine release spring in place was loose from the factory.  I tightened it down and then had problems with one leg of the trigger bar lifting spring coming out of the groove on the bottom of trigger bar and dragging/pinching between the frame and the trigger bar.  So, I had to take care of that.  I kept working at getting the grooves deeper and getting the spring legs evenly spaced/bent and when I got all that working right, the single action trigger pull had gone up to 3&1/4 lbs.  A couple people commented that it was interesting, but either no one had seen this before or it's a secret to action tuning that people in the know didn't want to explain.  If it's a secret people use when tuning pistols for business, I can understand keeping an "edge" is important.

I'm not a gunsmith, just someone who like to work on stuff.  So, I'm not sure (100%) about what you've done with yours.

I thought I could find a link to a thread in the CZ Forum with pictures/parts list and explanation and I've just spent the last 15 or 20 minutes looking and didn't find it.

I don't know if the parts you already installed will work with a SAO conversion or not.

I bought/installed a straight single action trigger, a reduced power trigger return spring, a 15 lb. hammer spring, a reduced power firing pin block spring, a reduced power firing pin return spring, a CGW firing pin retaining pin, a CGW (Cajun Gun Works) floating trigger pin, a CGW race hammer and adjustable sear.

You won't need the disconnector.  I left mine on the old hammer.  Sounds like you might have to remove yours from the hammer.  Not sure how well you'll like the current trigger in SAO mode.  But you can try it and see if you want to keep it or change it to a standard SA style trigger.

On this one I ran into an issue with the SA trigger hitting the frame (inside and in front of the trigger) and not allowing enough forward movement to reset the sear/trigger bar.  Had to pull the trigger out and remove a small amount of metal from the front where it was hitting the frame.

I guess that's why they recommend parts be installed by a gunsmith.

Sometimes it's as easy as replacing the parts.  Sometimes you run into issues.  Good luck with yours.