WARDOG

Dang, I fitted three bolos on three tanfos. One with the trigger bar notched and two with the extreme trigger bar. The first functioned flawlessy. The other two after tested in dry fire brilliantly, today at the range began to skip double action..what can I do? File the interrupter more? Thanks for any info.

Thank you!

I have to fit a Bolo interruptor/disconnector on a tanfoglio stock2, with unica hammer, extreme sear and sear housing, the bolo pin is smaller diameter wise than the stock one so it's held loosely in the hammer, I've seen the Bolo instruction where they tells it's designed so it floats inside, there's a reason for that? Customer says it seems weird and want to drill the bolo for the stock pin, any info appreciated, thanks.

Almost every magazine on a strike one I can put my hands on had to be modified because the lip would'nt hold mag on mag catch during recoil. The most annoying feature on the strike one I found (but It's a personal thing) is that the bore axis is so low to grip frame that your trigger finger point REALLY low, it's steep learning curve not shoot high at speed with a strike one..It remainds me the steyr m9.

I think you all will find this interesting: http://www.docdroid.net/mb4k/bt-partner-update-december-2014.pdf.html Seems that someone outside my range had problems with the ones.. (scroll to last 2 pages..)

The first strike ones are showing in Italy, usually with big problems (sxxitty Tanfoglio QC, as usual), broken firing pins, undersprung extractors, magazine falling out the gun in mid string of fire, I REALLY think that it's not a platform completely tested, they had big problems with realiability before putting strike ones in production, I guess they didn'solve issues..

Yes, that theoretically would be the answer, but what I've observed is tha during trigger pull, the bar, making contact with the safety, slide laterally by a good margin, actually giving trigger pull an unpleasant bump during the final phase of trigger pull. It seems that rounding the safety aggravates this..

Most of glock gunsmith offer a modification on the firing pin safety, thar rounds the corner, actually mushrooming the safety, I'm curious why this mod is done exactly, Anyone can help? Thanks.

Your best bet is using DEVCON 290 black, it's amazingly similar to the glock polymer, to the extent that can be stippled and be virtually indistinguible from glock plastic. Fill the grip cavity, and start grinding away, I did a grip reduction here in Italy using devweld 531 (the white one, 290 is not available here) tinted black with powder dye, I did also an oversize mag release for 4 GEN glock, the product is amazing..hold perfectly well, if only the 290 would be available here..

Check the shell latch, I have an AKKAR, that in US is sold also by CD, and it had the very same problem as yours, I asked for advice in a shotgun forum and most of the time the shell latch is rough, and hold the shell for just more time, the elevation missed the shell and it falls to the ground, try first to lube slightly the shell in the rear, if it feed properly, it's the feed latch rough.

cant'see any pic!

that's what I want to accomplish (no easy feat, I know, I have only a foredom and files..)

i'm thinking about undercutting the frontstrap of my sti spartan, I was wondering how far or how high I can go on the cast frame. I would love having a high cut on the lines of a baer or an infinity but fear cutting into the frame. Anyone care to advice? Thanks.

In the process of disassembling a glockworx trigger pad from the trigger bar, in order to polish the bar (come really rough from the factory), I stripped the allen screw that connect the pad to the bar, I sent an email to glockworx, but no answer as now. Anyone know what size they are? Thanks for any info.

I've done quite a few trigger job on glocks, reducing effectively the mechanichal reset, altering the curve of the rear part of trigger bar. So yes, It can be done, and glockworx claims a MECHANICAL 50percent reset reduction. What bothers me is that claim is simply NOT TRUE. They did nothing to shorten reset. The overtravel stop did not riduce reset.

I marked the back and forward points, the reset distance, is the very same..

I'm from Italy..shipping back the kit would cost me an arm and a leg..

My striker is actually polished to a mirror finish, it didn't help.. The major source of grittines was the Ti plunger safety, but also the trigger pad was rough inside the hole. I cleaned, deburred and polished the glockworx trigger bar to a mirror finish, but the Ti plunger was still very rough. Removed It for my polished stock plunger and that was much better. Played with pretravel and overtravel screws until overtravel was almost removed (Not completely, I make sure that the striker clared the trigger bar during pull), shortened pretravel roughly 25 percent compared to stock trigger in order to leave operational the striker safety. The glockworx trigger spring and connector failed..connector was very rough, and the trigger spring lead to a very mushy and inconsistent reset. Removed it for my usual LWD polished connector, and stock glock trigger spring. ..the pretravel screw backed out considerably during range training..used some 242 loctite and continued shooting.. Reset, the original point of concern for me, is ABSOLUTELY equal to a stock glock trigger. I compared it to a stock g34, marking reset point on the trigger guard. So at the end I paid nearly 200 EUROS for a stock glock trigger bar with an aluminium pad that left factory preset in a dangerous way (striker safety disabled, drop safety disabled), rough and gritty. A stock glock trigger housing with a mushy connector and a useless trigger spring. I tried everything, with the stock nr3 striker spring the trigger was too heavy for me, and with the reduced nr2 striker spring the striker had a very inconsistent reset. The worst part is that it was claimed Boldly that the trigger would had a 50percent reset redution, that's simply not true. Lesson learned..

After adjusting overtravel screw correctly, and setting pretravel in order to not disable any safety, reset is identical to my stock glock trigger. I found the glockworx advertisment misleading, they claimed a reset reduction of the 50percent,that's not the case. I switched back to my stock trigger, the glockworx was also gritty.

I left the pre-travel and overtravel screws as they left factory. As they set up the latter, I don't think I can reduce it more (inspected with an armorer slide plate during trigger pull)pre-traveò, however, is reduced too much, all the internal safeties are disabled. I tought they used a custom trigger bar, but for what I can see is a stock glock erly 3gen trigger bar with long nose, not even polished. I tried the glockworx connector and trigger spring included in the kit but reset was very mushy and I swapped them with a lwd connector and a stock spring, now reset is snappier and positive, but the amount of traver is the very same as with a stock trigger bar (I mean it was also the very same even with glockworx connector). For what I know, reset distance is a direct result of trigger bar nose/connector profile, if the amount of travel is shortened by reducing overtravel, you can reach the point where the striker drags on the trigger bar inducing malfunctions. Also, as I can see, installing glockworx parts (trigger bar, spring, connector, ti plunger safety and spring and trigger housing) lead to a gritty trigger pull, with mushy reset even with a stock striker and spring. I will try to experiment more in the evening when I return from work..

I bought this: http://glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/7520_Complete+Fulcrum+Trigger+Kit/?return=%3ftpl%3Dsearch%26search_val%3Dglockworx

I just received a glockworx trigger kit, installed in my glock 17 following instructions, the advertisements claimed a reset reduction by 50percent. As now, the takeup is totally gone, disabling the drop safety and the striker safety, and reset is absolutely the very same of my stock glock trigger. I'm not fumbled with take up and overtravel screws. I hoped for reset reduction but that's not the case, I'm missing something? Any help appreciated, thanks!

I tried the warren/dawson combo (.100 FO front) but the rear notch is just too large for my tastes, at the longer distances I slow down to center front sight. The best combination for me is the heinie rear (not slant pro) and dawson .215 fo front.

I had the factory 1.5mm fiber front sight on my sp01, changed to the 1mm fiber. Not much of a change, IMHO. Then, thanks to a forum member I put a dawson .100 width fiber optic front sight..and it was a whole different world.. Try it you will not be disappointed.

Dawson sight is wonderful! thanks again! I'm a born and bred 1911 single stack shooter, it's the gun I like the most. I've tried everything under the sun, still think the sp01 is a wonderful gun, but the grip shape and the trigger shape really don't suit me well.. other than that the thing is an anvil that shoots poa poi everytime, and fast!