jschroep

Good. My dad wants me to load standard 9mm but I really don't wanna have to set the dies up for "normal" 9mm and then readjust them to 9 major. I'm just waiting on my open gun to come in so I can start working up loads on that. I might make a couple dummy rounds to see how long I can load them. My builder recommended an OAL so I'm kinda torn between just sticking to that or doing experiments.

So I tried the U die and honestly the thing makes me mad. Half the time the brass doesn't line up so you have to nudge it slightly. The decapping pin is a pain to tighten. I said screw it I'm gonna use the Dillon dies. I'll test my loads as I work them up to make sure setback isn't an issue. Not really happy with my U die to be honest.

Thanks. Should I be trying to swage my brass before loading? I have the swage it for the 750 but running brass through the press twice seems like it will get old quick.

How do I set this thing up? The instructions that come with it say to screw it down all the way to the shell plate. So do I just put the press at the top of of it's stroke screw it down till it touches on the shell plate? Also it seems like the press goes through a sticky spot bear the start of the stroke. Do I need to lubricate the ram? Or does that just need to wear in.

So the margin for error on the U die is a bit smaller then if I read that right? I guess amke sure that thing is tight Everytime you reload.

Is this .002 what i should be measuring to determine if my resizing die is properly set then?

So the ID and OD of the case would be tighter than in a traditional die correct? If it is able to size further towards the rim then more of the case would be in contact with the bullet after crimping, if I am understanding this correctly. Is he crimp on the entire section of the bullet that's inside the case? Figure I might as well get educated on all this so I know what to look for.

I know this is old but don't need to start a new thread. What is it that the U die does just out of curiosities sake? Is the mouth of the case closer to the diameter of the bullet? What dimensionally is different from a Dillon die.

Does 9mm major need a tape crimp die or a normal crimp?

Does another company make carbide dies for 9mm that will work in a 750? I just called Dillon and they said they won't have dies in for 9mm til July sometime. Also wouldn't mind getting 223 dies as well. Anyone have a good set they recommend that isn't Dillon? They said those will be 4 weeks from today. I ordered the press like 2 weeks ago and got it pretty quick. I'm honestly kinda frustrated there was no communication with me that the wait would be so long for them.

I have a razor cat on the way and I've been very impressed with limcat's customer service. Whenever you have a question they'll gladly answer it for you. It's an open gun so pick one that you like the styling on. Buy once cry once.

I have a press coming and I am trying to get powder while it is still available. I noticed on some of the reloading data I have seen it specifies the case brand. Does that matter? Can I just load mixed brass after i have trimmed and resized it? Also what loads do you recommend? I mostly do target shooting with my AR's. Both are chambered in 223 wylde. I will most likely just get the Dillon super swage and a Lyman electric case trimmer. Cases don't have to be seated multiple times right? My dad's AR will be a 16" mid length and mine is a 18" rifle length. Both with Epsilon VG6 brakes on them. Not sure if that is relevant

The threads on those are the same as the Dillon right?

I'll be getting a 750XL tho. So do I need the EGW or are the Dillons crimp dies as good as anything

Do I need to get the EGW U die if I'm wanting to help prevent setback in 9mm major? Or do the Dillion dies do a good job of preventing setback? If I do get the EGW is it a direct replacement for the Dillon die or does that take up another spot?

Can we get a working link to the report again? I'm not seeing what material is used on the SVI barrels on the website. Also in the original post it was stated that the material used to manufacture the barrels is 416R, That's the material that was recommended in the article that posted from schuemann. So was the original post wrong in saying that the barrel was made with 416R and it is actually made with 416? I really think it is irresponsible as a reloader to not consider that there could be quality issues with the ammo. It was also previously stated that bullet setback is not an issue with 38 super ( or was it 38 supercomp?) I have a hard time reconciling that in my engineering mind pressure should increase if volume decreases? IE the bullet is setback further in the case.

I picked up brass from my last match and noticed some primers had the primer indentation with square ends. This isnt my brass but normally, major PF 9mm shouldnt do this right? Do the small rifle primers mushroom out like that or no?

Is it worth it to experiment with different loads in your opinion? Or do I go with the builders recommendation?

When. You say blowing primers is that primers falling out of the case?

I guess ill cross that bridge when I get there. When people say hs6 is dirty do they mean it's got a lot of residue? I've seen issues with people saying it's dirty. Also with SWMP some have had issues with unburnt powder. Is that due to the OAL being too long and just bit everything gets burned? I've been advised to only use SRP for 9 major as well so I'm wondering if people aren't using those and having issues.

Would you just get a pound or so of each powder get loaded up to major and see what feels best? Like I have a couple recommended loads from limcat but I guess I'm not sure if I should just stick with that or go chase some rabbits. Worst case is I go back to what they recommend.

Anyone have experience with these? https://reloadinginnovations.com/products/spill-stop-for-dillon-650-1050

What powder are you using? Looking at SWMP.

Pretty much just 100% inspect everything before throwing it in the tumbler right?

How many times can I load brass to 9mm major? I can get a good amount of brass from the matches I shoot and will buy some also. If I pick up the brass at the range and inspect it for stepped brass am I good to go for the most part? Also is it okay to just mix new and old brass or do you like to try and keep it separate? I chose 9mm because doing less work with brass seems nice. Will be getting a 750 soon and am just trying to stock up on brass. Also what's the difference between loading 115's and 124's? I've had several people recommend 115's over 124's because you can get more gas to drive the comp. I guess is that just a feel thing for your particular gun?