quietmike

You can get glock triggers pretty light. My Johnny Glock trigger is just under 3#. The trigger feels very good, but IMO expecting to get a striker fired trigger to feel like a traditional single action will end with disappointment.

I have the version for the large backstrap.

Just got a Dawson Ice magwell for a 34/5 I can't get the screw that goes through the backstrap to line up. Without the backstrap it goes together perfectly. Has anyone else needed to hog out the hole in the backstrap to make it work?

Electronic ear muffs that let you hear normal sounds but block loud noises. I wear them anyway on the off chance of catastrophic primer detonation.

My Johnny Glock with a 4.5# striker gives me a 3# pull.

Got a Johnny Glock on my 34/5 and it's great.

My TT extensions came with extra power springs.

You don't have to send him your gun. You can order a drop in trigger that is amazing. You can send him your gun and he will squeeze out the last .5% from it.

No doubt the CoC grips are great, but they're spendy. A buddy who arm wrestles turned me on to the Iron Woody grips. https://ironwoodyfitness.com/product/the-woody-gripper/ Adjusts from 45-345# and costs 25.00 He suggested doing 15 squeeze reps, then to squeeze, hold, and bring your wrist in 90° and hold for 15 seconds,doing three sets. I've been doing it for a couple months and noticed considerable increase in grip strength.

Put a Johnny Glock competition trigger in mine.

I put a Johnny Glock competition trigger, jager guide rod and 13# spring in mine, and a Vortex Venom on it.

Try pushing an acohol wipe through it with the follower rod. It will clean out any priming coumpound residue and will also hang up on any burrs that might have developed.

Another possible difference is bearing surface of the bullets.

He just replied on Facebook that his tooling for the case feeder stop was having problems and he had to retool. He stopped taking orders temporarily so he wouldn't cause customers to wait too long.

I have heard he was retooling and upgrading some machinery. Hoping he's just taking a temporary break to get things sorted out.

I was looking for snowshooze's new case feed stop and it says no longer available. All of his products appear to be no longer available and his ebay store is gone. Hoping this is just a glitch, or a problem with my browser.

Crimping a coated bullet will scrape off the coating, leaving bare lead. This can cause accuracy problems and barrel leading. Pulling a bullet after loading to see if the coating is being damaged is time well spent.

Averages 3# after 10 pulls on my lyman gauge.

I'm loving mine. A glock will never have the feel of a Timney or Huber trigger on a good rifle, but Johnny makes a glock feel better than anything else I've tried. I'm running the 4.5 striker spring in my 34.5. Just enough takeup to feel, clean break, and super fast reset. I can easily dry fire with zero sight movement, and I'm not a competetion shooter by any means.

Thanks, sorry for the dumb question, just wanted to be sure.

Been shooting forever, but only now started looking at competitive, more to adopt some techniques instead of competing. Anyway, in Ben Steoger's book on dry fire, the first drill is slow trigger squeeze. It says no sight movement is the goal. Does this include the normal (to me anyway) oscillations. I've never been able to hold any gun rock still, unless it's on a bipod and sandbag. Should I be looking for no interruptions to the normal movement, or am I way behind the curve?

Looking at loading some 147gr bullets, but where to start? Who's your favorite maker?

Thanks sniperfrog. I ended up getting a Frank Proctor hanger. It has holes drilled to offset the cant built into the holster, so you get zero cant. It also takes up less belt space than the safariland hanger.

Just got in a Safariland 6360 and noticed it has a forward cant,which I dont like at all. Anyone know a way to get it to zero cant? Like the holster and want to keep it if I can get this fixed. Thanks for any help.

Mine should be here Monday.